k7000 flyback ?

discgolfer72

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well i was in the shop doing some work when i heard a zap looked up and the 25 inch k7000 in my cps2 cab was out and i smelled the all mighty magic smoke

i pulled the chassis and the fuse was blown and the fly smells like a burnt turd
(tho no visible signs of damage)

i purchased a k7000 dx kit from bob awhile back for a 19 inch k7000 and installed it but the monitor still did not work

sooo

my ? is wil a flyback from a 19 inch k7000 work with a 25 inch chassis
 
wooo hooo thanks

the only reason i asked is the fly looks diffrent (even from the one that was originaly on the 19 inch ) and has no numbers i can use to verfiy its the same

second ? is are the hots and vr the same lol

but at this point i caught it right as it blew and after turning it back on its still trying to put out hv so im hoping the vr is still good and i guess ill cross my fingers the hot survived the ba\last as well

i was lucky and had a spare k7 chassis laying around but its a troublesome chassis and has problems with the colors (intermintent red) even after a cap kit so the game is not totaly out for the count but i have a buyer for it and i cant sell it like this and dont have time to place an order from bob
 
The K7000 originally shipped with a white-knob flyback or a black-knob flyback, so they do look different. But the replacement is the same.

The HOT's should be the same - D1398.

The VR's are different. There were two different kinds for each size, so make sure you get the right kind:

19" - STR3123 or STR30123
25" - STR3130 or STR30130
 
ok update
new fly/hot/vr installed replaced all caps

double checked all work
plug it in and blows fuse

what to look for next

i still hve a smell of burnt parts coming from the back side of the chasis by the fuse

what is the black box labled 250v -x2 mkp gpf right next to the fuse holder

edit
well just pulled the chassis again reflowed all solder points

pulled bolth white risitors and bolth ohm fine
replaced the fuse again to be shure i didnt install a blown one

still nothing no neck glow or any signs of l;ife
 
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Always make sure you are connecting the ground wire to the neckboard when testing.

Check C36, C38, D18, D13, R103, etc...
 
check always connecting the ground to neckboard

i replaced every single radial electrolytic capacitor excpt that big bertha at c55 (is c36 a disc or mylar cap cant find the location on the chassis)

will check the diodes and r103

can i do a diode check in line or do i need to isloate it


im starting to lean twards getting a bad replacment flyback as i did a dx rebuild with hot and vr on a 7000 19 inch and after the rebuild nothing (im using that fly on this chassis )



and on this 25 incher before i replaced the fly i was at least getting the fuse to pop every time


i noticed on the flyback looking at the knobs on the right side where the metal retainer clip thing is i can rotate the top part of the fly that is being held by that metal wire retainer thing(noticed it moved while i was replasing that cap under the dang metal barcket that goes over the fly )



damn i wish i had not tossed the 4 parts chassis i had last week they had flys left on them (tho they were in ? on if they were good )
 
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Next time you feel like throwing chassis away, let me know.

C36 is the mylar critical safety cap underneath the HOT bracket. C38 is the mylar horizontal width limiter cap near the horizontal width coil.

If you are blowing fuses, then you are looking for shorts, so test in circuit, then pull a leg to verify. Doublecheck your VR (IC4) for shorts. (You DID put insulators between the VR/HOT and the wall, right?)

If your fuse is no longer blowing, you can pull one leg of D10 to see if your monitor will give you a picture. That will tell you if the flyback is working, and just shut down by the HV Shutdown circuit.

If you get to a point where the fuse no longer blows, test your B+...
 
lol i had to clear out some space in the shop since i was at the point were i could not even walk without triping over somthing lol

the 4 i trashed had been striped down to nothing but a handfull of resitors and the flys lol(that reminds me i should havve a cap for c 36 in my parts bin now lol)
damn i need to take advice from red green more often every time i throw somthing out i alway find i need it a week later lol


ill do a few more tests and see waht i get


ps thanks again
 
Make sure the voltage regulator was replaced with the same EXACT number a what was in it.

Remember, both the horizontal output transistor and voltage regulator must have mica insulators behind them and smeared with a thin film of silicone heat sink grease.
 
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