K7000 flyback question

treborlicec

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Hey all. Been forever since I've done a monitor. Thing was working. Just doing caps and flyback as the screen was exhibiting issues indicative of a rebuild. Anyway as I'm checking my work I'm getting continuity between all the points highlighted. Meaning the red is all connected etc. Is this correct for a 7000? Wanted to ask before I reinstall.

Thanks.
 

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Hey all. Been forever since I've done a monitor. Thing was working. Just doing caps and flyback as the screen was exhibiting issues indicative of a rebuild. Anyway as I'm checking my work I'm getting continuity between all the points highlighted. Meaning the red is all connected etc. Is this correct for a 7000? Wanted to ask before I reinstall.

Thanks.
it's a transformer. those are just different voltage taps. I wouldn't worry about what's connected to what in this instance.
 
it's a transformer. those are just different voltage taps. I wouldn't worry about what's connected to what in this instance.
Thanks. Everything looks great now except the pic isn't wide enough. Do I go clockwise or counter clockwise to widen it?
 
Thanks. Everything looks great now except the pic isn't wide enough. Do I go clockwise or counter clockwise to widen it?
you change the width cap. don't even bother with the width coil. they've sat so long that if you go to turn them they'll probably just break. you can probably shoot something in to lubricate them but just be mindful you only get about 1/4" of adjustment either way.

get the width cap kit from APAR. the C38 cap, read the numbers. you go up in capacitance value to tighten the picture, go down in value to widen it.

some games the picture was very square, like Moon Patrol or Double Dragon, so you would have to reduce the width cap value to get it to fill the whole screen. if one of those monitors got swapped into a different game that didn't need that modification, you'd have to put the original value cap back in. these have been at an age depending on how much they were used where the original caps are just wearing out, you can change them with the same value and get the picture back to where it needs to go.

hopefully this is helpful
 
It was fine with the old caps and flyback. Which weren't old as I realized when changing them.
 
It was fine with the old caps and flyback. Which weren't old as I realized when changing them.
I said the C38 width cap. that's not electrolytic. if C57 had a 160V cap in it then it wasn't done right to begin with.

I have nothing further to contribute to this topic. good luck
 
I said the C38 width cap. that's not electrolytic. if C57 had a 160V cap in it then it wasn't done right to begin with.

I have nothing further to contribute to this topic. good luck
I removed a 250v. Replacement was a 160v. I can put the old one back.
 
Got a width cap kit on the way. I guess I've been pretty lucky all these years never having to mess with this particular issue.
 
it's either that or you just tolerated it the whole time like I have. lol
I've been thinking back and I only had one issue and that was after a tube swap in my ki. Was a little wide but not enough to mess with. This one is an inch short on each side. Can't live with that lol.
 
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