k7000 dead, bad fuse caps leaking, a couple of questions

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k7000 dead, bad fuse caps leaking, a couple of questions

I read through cadilliacman's threads and bob roberts as well.

I tested the resistors suggested by bob they came up on my multimeter as 475, 475, 530, 525 holding steading does that mean they are good?
Also tested r103 it came up 1475 or so holding steady, good?

In the picture I am listing both the black caps are oozing brown goo from the bottom and the white square (forget what it's called) is loose. I looked at the bottom and either it was blown from the traces or just got popped off. solder is still intact, I am going to go check it out in a minute.

basic cap kit and flyback replace sound like enough on this one?
 

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The goo is good

From what I've seen with the K7000's, the goo is the glue they put on at the factory to hold down the caps. Sometimes it's brown, sometimes it's white. That shouldn't be a problem.

I have my fair share of K7000 issues, so I don't think I can help you with the rest, other than start by touching up the solder joints for all the connectors, replace that fuse and make sure that if you have a popped trace, you jumper it or fix it somehow.

Fire that baby up and measure the B+ (if you don't blow the fuse again!).
 
well I have a cap kit handy and I just ordered a k7000 flyback repair kit from bob roberts, so I will install that and take it from there.
 
Is it blowing fuses? You should test the HOT. If the flyback went out it more than likely took out the HOT as well.
 
I thought that may be the case so I ordered the hot as well from bob.

I didn't test anything yet. I just got the chassis, and took the guys word for it about it playing blind and the fuse being blown.

I pulled the flyback tonite, but have to wait for it to arrive from bob to replace. I have an extra k7000 cap kit so I figured I would cap it and wait for the other parts to show.
 
I was in a world of pain when my K7000 blew. I wound up installing the works on mine, fuse, flyback, HOT, VR, C36, C38 too lol

oh, patchwork was also done. consider yourself lucky you don't have a gaping hole in yours like mine did.
 
can I get someone to explain how to test if some parts are good or bad for me?
I am referring to r103 and possibly that huge cap (b+?) right next to it.

using my MM how do I test to see if they need to be replaced?
 
can I get someone to explain how to test if some parts are good or bad for me?
I am referring to r103 and possibly that huge cap (b+?) right next to it.

using my MM how do I test to see if they need to be replaced?

the R103 I imagine you just do a test for ohms. how to determine the range...? I don't know, look for any markings on it, and if it's a regular resistor, learn that color coding stuff for the bands lol.

any cap you'll need to use an ESR meter.
 
Resistors go open when they're bad. The large caps rarely go bad, you can test for ESR if you have an ESR meter, otherwise you'll have to replace it to know if it's bad or not. Some caps will read as open when bad as well.

Have you already recapped the chassis? What have you done to it so far?
 
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