k7000 couple questions

tron guy

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1. I replaced r103. (is it possible to put it in backwards or upside down?)
2. I cut the wires from the old flyback, just want to confirm the red wire from the bottom of the new flyback goes into the neckboard right? the black wire to ground.

and while I here, where is c36? I didn't locate it on bob's cap map page
 
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1. I replaced r103. (is it possible to put it in backwards or upside down?)

Backwards? No. Upside down? No. In the wrong holes? Yes. I've seen people replace it without putting it back into that housing it has, then sticking the leads into the wrong holes.

2. I cut the wires from the old flyback, just want to confirm the red wire from the bottom of the new flyback goes into the neckboard right? the black wire to ground.

If I recall correctly, the red wire needs to have the connector spliced on, then connected to the G2 pin on the neckboard. The black wire goes to the focus pin of the neck socket.

and while I here, where is c36? I didn't locate it on bob's cap map page

It's not on the cap map because it isn't an electrolytic cap. It's located behind the flyback under the metal bracketry:

http://therealbobroberts.net/csc.html
 
I soldered the G2 wire on mine. every flyback I've changed I've done that. some users on here actually encouraged doing it, so..........

C36 is that 4 legged monster (if yours is original) right next to the flyback.

that's what went kablooey on my K7000, a set of legs connected to the traces that got blown up so bad it put a hole in my chassis. amidst the patchwork I had to do to fix the traces, I also (obviously) had to replace C36, and used the 2 legged one and installed the jumpers like Bob shows there.

speaking as someone that had to rebuild almost every major component on a K7000... it's really not that difficult.
 
thanks, I am on the right track then. I guess I should have hit c36 when I had that stupid metal plate out to change the flyback and the little (thingy) that attaches to the outside of hte metal plate.
 
I can try to get a picture up if necessary, but the bottom side of hte chassis has some components soldered in on one leg of C38 (on the left side while looking at the front of the chassis)

I assume I just leave them there and do my replacing of c38 huh?

also the resistors I got from bob is a package of 5. and they are all the same value.
I assume I replace the 4 up near r103? save the 5th one for some other project?
 
here is a pic of the bottom of the chassis trying to focus on C38.
you can see the big brown (capacitor???) it and another resistor are connected to one leg of C38 and the other leg has the solder removed, you can see it to the right, (kind of)

just leave them be when I change C38 huh?
 

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ANY parts soldered to the foil side of a k7000 series board are part of the undocumented production changes. Leave them alone!
 
ANY parts soldered to the foil side of a k7000 series board are part of the undocumented production changes. Leave them alone!

thanks, I figured as much.

I just have to unsolder them to get the C38 mounted, but back they go.
thanks as always.
 
ok I 've done everything that you guys suggested. I changed everything bob roberts suggested could possibly be wrong.

I didn't change the resistors that sit in the neighborhood of r103.
I changed the first one actually, and after doing so, they all measure out the same, so I figured the rest were good, since they matched the first one.


what are the odds this thing works when I plug her in?
 
Depends on how well you went over the traces. Was the fuse blowing at all? If not, then fire it up...
 
well the guy lives 40 miles away.

I didn't do any testing of it prior to getting the chassis. He said the fuse was blown.

I changed everything that bob said could cause it.

yeah it's time to fire her up, (after I drive 40 miles to his house to test it)
 
with a fairly common chassis, can't you test it on one of your monitors?
 
I don't have any 25" monitor games (or a k7000 for that matter)

if it would plug into a k4900 I could.

Lesson #1 when doing monitor repair for other people: If you can't test the chassis at home after the repair because you don't have that monitor model at home, then pull the entire tube (not just the chassis) and take it home, too, even if it's a pain in the ass (or bring the entire game back). That way you can be sure it's fixed when you go back...
 
Lesson #1 when doing monitor repair for other people: If you can't test the chassis at home after the repair because you don't have that monitor model at home, then pull the entire tube (not just the chassis) and take it home, too, even if it's a pain in the ass (or bring the entire game back). That way you can be sure it's fixed when you go back...

yeah lesson learned on that one.
I told him if it does not work when I bring it, I will be hauling the monitor back the 2nd time.
 
well, that bitch blew the fuse at power up.

It was raining, and I didn't ahve time, so I am going to bring either the whole game, or whole monitor back to my place for further analysis.

shit
 
Did you check/replace the HOT? In my limited experience blown fuse = blown HOT..I did have a tube that would blow the flyback, thus blowing the Hot, then the fuse. You can also test the power supply diodes.

Andrew
 
It's funny, I've seen HOTs blow fuses, and not blow fuses. VR always blow the fuse, though, as do C38's, C36's. etc...
 
this is my first k7000 so I don't know what I changed (by name)

I changed the regulator? (4 pronged black think against frame)
another 3 pronged black thing against frame that lays next to the flyback
changed the flyback
recapped it

changed the long white rectangle (r103)
changed both c36 and c38

I guess that's about it
 
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