k7000 capped now no picture but here it fire up

punkshere2stay

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capped the chassis was working before but needed it.. now i put it back in and i here it fire up but now it doesn't display anything. what do i need to be looking for.
 
started messing with it i have to have the brightness knob on the flyback turned all they way up and i get blue on the screen

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when you cap a monitor, you have to take into consideration that all adjustments need to be redone on it. that includes white balancing, the brightness adjustments, contrast, the size/positioning.

first adjust your vertical size and horizontal and vertical positioning. make sure there's no foldover or that the center of the picture is super bright like in your picture, otherwise you will burn the CRT.

make sure your flyback Screen G2 isn't cranked. turn the contrast to its center setting, and make sure the brightness is only about 25-33%.

turn all your bias pots to their center positions, or at least set them all at the same position first (if they're too low though, you'll be missing color saturation and the picture quality won't look too good)

turn your red and green drives all the way down, start over. start stepping those back up to where you have a white-ish picture with no obvious tint.

then do your fine-tuning with the bias pots.

put a game signal on the monitor, and adjust your brightness and contrast accordingly. brightness should be turned up just high enough that you don't see any black pixels in the raster, and contrast should only be up high enough to where text/graphics don't have smearing on the edge.

hope this helps.

and I guess the obvious... make sure you capped it properly. make sure there's no solder bridges, and that you have the cap polarities correct. if you've ever capped another monitor before, noting that the cap locations are marked on the negative side, it's easy to fuck up on the K7000 and install them backwards, cause K7000 is marked for positives.
 
ok pulled teh chassis back out went back over everything i did made sure the caps where going the right way and everything check all my solder connections and basicly went over the whole thing.. now this is what i get

SSPX0793.jpg
 
well now i took it back out went over everything agian.put it back in now all it displays in a small strip in the middle of the screen i can see it playing the game. but its not even an inch tall
 
sounds like cold solder joints somewere, go over the whole thing with a hot soldering gun, it has fixed more than a few of mine after capping them,Ron
 
yeah, it's not uncommon for the K7000 to have cold solder in a lot of places. do the neckboard and remote board too. anything that looks shitty. or you could just hit them all... don't even really need to add more solder, just re-melt what's already there.
 
I circled some of the more common areas to have cold solder joints.
For a vertical collapse issue like you are having, I'd pay close attention around the Vertical IC.

I would also check that your vertical height potentiometer on the remote board is good. Measure the resistance from one of the outer legs to the center leg and make sure it varies appropriately when the knob is turned. Should not show "open" or "0.00" while turning the knob.
 

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ok so i have been fiddling with it and this is what i have now.. it is just like it was before i capped it. (the remote board had a broken wire in the harness so i had to do some cutting and soldering..i guess that was part of my issues before right now) (i took the chassis out of my battletoads to check that i didn't mess up the tube and it looks fantastic with that chassis in there.)

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