K7000 capacitor jumpers?

Dilbert

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Hello all, I'm just starting to get into the hobby and I'm trying to refurbish a Hard Drivin' machine. I would like to do a cap kit for the 25K7101 monitor but I'm hesitant because I don't know why there are jumpers on some of the capacitors (C45 looks like it goes to ground and not sure what's up with C50). Can anyone explain why there might be jumpers and if I do a cap kit should I keep them?
 

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definitely keep them

It's been awhile since I've worked on a k7000 but that does not look 'off' to me.

What is the current state of the chassis? Working....
 
definitely keep them

It's been awhile since I've worked on a k7000 but that does not look 'off' to me.

What is the current state of the chassis? Working....
It works but is somewhat brighter toward the top of the screen. I thought about doing a cap kit on it while it's out because it's such a pain to get out of the hard drivin machine
 
yeah I could see doing that. Yes then, leave all of the current parts on the bottom in place as you do your kit.
 
It works but is somewhat brighter toward the top of the screen. I thought about doing a cap kit on it while it's out because it's such a pain to get out of the hard drivin machine
i would do the cap kit and filter cap and check the chassis over well for any cold solder joints. here are the best kits



make sure to reflow correctly per our video

 
i would do the cap kit and filter cap and check the chassis over well for any cold solder joints. here are the best kits



make sure to reflow correctly per our video

Thank you. Will order and advise
 
Also, it seems the last technician to touch the flyback glued the screen knob in a fixed position. Anyone have any ideas why?
 
Also, it seems the last technician to touch the flyback glued the screen knob in a fixed position. Anyone have any ideas why?
Seems like operators did that to "lock in" their settings. If you are able to still move it, it shouldn't be a problem. I don't have any experience removing glue from a flyback. So I don't want to give any thoughts that may damage it. The only time I had glue on the screen or focus pot, I was able to gentle get it to loosen up and turn. I wouldn't try too hard though. Don't want to cause any cracks to appear or get bigger.
 
Is it hot glue or something else? Hot glue can be loosened with a piece of gauze soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol and letting it sit on the glue for 5-10 minutes.
 
Also, it seems the last technician to touch the flyback glued the screen knob in a fixed position. Anyone have any ideas why?
The glue on the screen knobs is factory. I've noticed lately on some of the flybacks, peeling the glue off and adjust may cause issues. Not all, but some flybacks.
 
Last edited:
Forgot to post an update a few months ago (for those of you who care). Recapped the monitor. Looking good so far.IMG_2180.jpeg
 
Just to close out this thread I've got Hard Drivin' up and running. New laminate, artwork, recapped monitor, fixed soundboard issue (physically damaged ceramic capacitor), took apart and cleaned/re-lubricated shifter, motor and pedals, added two cooling fans, and some general TLC
 

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