K7000 Cap Kit: I'm Not Very Smart (or Did I Fry It)

SpiffWilkie

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K7000 Cap Kit: I'm Not Very Smart (or Did I Fry It)

I was having VR issues (according to Mr. Fromm's flowchart) so I replaced IC4 as well as the flyback (there was somewhat of a prehistoric one on there), did a cap kit, and replaced the HOT (Came with the flyback repair kit). Well, I didn't realize the need for the mica insulators (this would be my first time replacing these things) and left them off. I turned on my game after reinstalling the monitor, heard a small pop, and smelled a little burning something.
So, what are the chances I killed either IC4 or the HOT?
Also, would a real electronics shop (i.e., not Radio Shack) carry those insulators or an equivalent product?
 
There is a trace near the edge toward the front of the chassis. (When the chassis is installed) that more than likely blew open then. Pull it and you won't miss it. It's really thin. Repair that, reinstall the insulator on the HOT and try it again.
 
If you heard a pop and smelled a burning more likely a cap was inserted wrong: visual inspect your board for exploded caps. Check your HOT for shorts (out of the circuit): maybe it's still good
 
If you didn't put insulators on the VR or HOT, then they're both probably bad. If the VR blew faster, then the HOT might be okay. Check some other stuff like R103 (open), or C38, D18, or C36 (shorted)...
 
On the HOT - set the meter for diode (or beep) test and put your black lead on the center leg and the red lead on each of the other legs. It should measure somewhere between .400 and .700. If it reads close to zero, then it's shorted.

On the VR - set the meter for diode (or beep) test and then put your black lead on one of the outer pins and the read lead on each of the other pins. Then move the black lead over one and repeat. Do this until the black lead has been on every pin, with the red lead touching the others. If you get a beep or reading close to zero, then it's shorted.

And get those insulators in there before you test...
 
On the HOT - set the meter for diode (or beep) test and put your black lead on the center leg and the red lead on each of the other legs. It should measure somewhere between .400 and .700. If it reads close to zero, then it's shorted.

On the VR - set the meter for diode (or beep) test and then put your black lead on one of the outer pins and the read lead on each of the other pins. Then move the black lead over one and repeat. Do this until the black lead has been on every pin, with the red lead touching the others. If you get a beep or reading close to zero, then it's shorted.

And get those insulators in there before you test...

Thanks. I got the insulators in there this evening. I also noticed that I had the center lead of the HOT touching the metal.
 
Well, the HOT seemed to read fine. The VR seemed to be o.k. on some legs. Others it would display a 1??

I did notice that D10 was cracked though, and it definitely wasn't before I fired up the monitor last night, as I had to reattach it. I had desoldered one leg in a previous troubleshooting effort.
 
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