K7000 c69

LordRyGuy

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My C69 (soldered to the underside of the board) looks like a .0056uf instead of the .0061uf that everyone says is supposed to be there... I was wondering if anyone had seen a k7000 with a C69 of that value stock? Think it may have been someones best attempt at a replacement? I want to replace the cap and I have a 0061uf cap coming in the mail but I didn't want to try it untill I figure out if the .0056 is a stock value or not.. Any ideas?
 
Now that I'm looking at it.... That 4-leg green critical safety cap in C36 says 1600 432 H ... That means it's a 4300pf right? That doesn't match every other cap description i can find on the web... I think they are supposed to be 6100pf or 4700pf ... So Now I'm confused. I guess maybe I have an early version of the k7000 that has different values for both C36 and C69??
 
take a pic of the caps both sides of the chassis.

this sounds like a factory mod.

do not change it if it is.

i have seen chassis like you are describing so a pic would help allot.

what is wrong with the chassis?
popping fuses? not powering on?

Peace
Buffett
 
I'll have to take a few pics tomorrow after work. I posted about the problem im having a while ago. It has two vertical lines on the left side of the screen. C36 and C69 are literally the only caps left that I have not replaced on this board. It was showing just one line at first. After I did a cap kit it and replaced the flyback, it now shows two lines. I'm waiting for a couple ICs to arive in the mail but other than that I don't have any idea whats causing the problem.
 
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Here are the pictures of the two bars on the left of the screen and the two caps I'm talking about...

GhostBars_zps9e20ee11.jpg


DSC00050_zps6a833636.jpg


DSC00053_zpsb6ea2eb5.jpg
 
yes that is a factory mod do not change it.

has this chassis been capped and new fly installed?

if not it needs it.

Peace
Buffett
 
Yes. That's when the single line on the left side of the screen became two lines on the left side of the screen. After I capped it and replaced the flyback.
 
I'm sorry.. I'm an idiot... sorry if I don't answer this right... But I think you're talking about the sync that connects by the video input? It has one cable that goes to pin 9 and then snakes around through pin 10...

Edit: I lied... the sync can go to pin 9 and 10 but the connector was always attached one pin over.. So that the cable goes to pin 10 and snakes around to hit pin 11 (if there was a pin 11) . I can attach it to where it goes to 9 and 10 if you think that will change anything.. screw it. I'll give it a try right now... K I tried it . Didn't notice any difference..
 
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yea only use pin 10 for sync.

it was worth a look and see in case that was affecting it.

i have seen stranger things.

can you hook up the monitor to another game to see if that has an affect on it.

i had one like you are having problems with once.
but it never bothered me enough to fix it.
it was along time ago and i do not even remember which game i put it in now.

the only other thing i can think of is a new cap is in wrong a wrong value or a solder splash/bridge or a bad new cap somewhere.

Peace
Buffett
 
Yeah the hard part is that if the problem is an incorrect value cap then it was put in there before I owned the game.. I verified that all the caps i put in matched the old caps in the board and also match the cap list from wells gardners website.. So it would be impossible to figure that all out.. But I did try a few different games with that monitor (in the same cabinet) and the bars are in the same spot on all games. I tried another konami game and a mortal kombat 3 board.. And I can confirm that its not burn in... When I adjust the width or horizontal position the bars move with the picture..
 
it is a strange problem.

i wish i had an answer for you.

but as it stands i do not know where to look until i get a chassis that has that issue.

the only other suggestion i have is try the chassis on a diffident tube and yoke to see if the problem is still there.

out of pure curiosity take a pic of the chassis and ohm out the yoke.
i would like to see the yoke readings and a pic of the chassis please.

Peace
Buffett
 
Sure I'll get that done as soona s I get home from work today.. I don't know how to ohm out the yoke though... I have a multimeter but I don't know what points to measure from... This is the only K7000 monitor I own.. All my other monitors are u2000 u5000 k7400 and k4900. I wish I had another 7000 tube/yoke to test this chassis in.. I may have to find another k7131 chassis andgo over it and compair every solder point till I spot a difference... heh.. Thanks for trying to help out.. I'm just at the point where I'm ordering every part I can to replace and cross my fingers. hahaha. I really don't mind doing it because its a great way to learn.. And In the end I'll have the most reliable k7000 in existance. :004_sbiggrin:
 
Box Cap

Replace the Box cap next to the yoke connector

and c44 with metalized poly's..


Tip:

The Reference K 7000 or the infamous Prismatic

Is a general description of the K7000 series

not a the exact model being tested!!

the correct model and chassis main #

is the exact one!!
 
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Hey Buffet, or anyone else who might know.. What's the little pcb next to the flyback? Is that a early pincushion or mod for 27"?

Also looks like the caps on it are original, might need to be replaced..

I've had issues like yours in the past.. After 30mins or so reflowing most if not all solder pads on the chassis, neck pcb, and remote pcb.. It was fixed :)
 
the square one by the fly with the 2 caps on it.
i do not know, i have never seen one hooked to anything.

9/10 times i just remove then and toss them into the parts bin.

it would be neat to know tho.

Peace
Buffett
 
Yeah they are new Nichicons. All the caps you are asking me to replace have already been replaced. I replaced every cap on this board except for two. lol I have the original cap for C44 and it has the same results as the new box cap. I'm going to reflow everything on chassis next time I have it out just in case I may have missed something but other than that I'm keep an eye out for another k7000 to test in this cabinet.
 
Some These chassis were used in dedicated games.

For a short period of time.

Thats why the little board is on top and not used

it was for better Horizontal shift of Phase control.


I would experiment with the chassis for the game.

remove the cap on the bottom of the chassis ..completely

one reason your image is to wide as it is..

adjust the coil up so the image is narrow then adjust it out.

if it wont go completely out then change the pf across the tuning cap

or add to a .0047

the box cap c44 is for the secondary of the fly may have some image

issue because it parts of the video B+

the Box cap next to the yoke connector would have more to do with the

width..confirm its good too.

The most that would happen is the set go into shutdown as the peak to peak

level gets to high and cause the x-ray protect to disable the drive chip..

I dont believe this will happen, so i would experiment with these the coil

and retrace tuning cap.

compare with the what you have in the chassis with what the parts list has

and then make the proper tuning adjustments between the caps and the adjustable

coil..Good Luck!

https://www.wellsgardner.com/bom/P538.pdf
 
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