K7000 C36 replacement

jay

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I ordered a C36 just in case. After the hell I've been through with my 7000. I'm hoping this may do the trick. Here's my problem:

On Bob Roberts site it basically says to replace the big green (Crit Safety Cap) with the one he sent me. However, nothing is said about the "cap" on the bottom on the board attached to the green crit safety cap.

Do I just do what Bob states in the instructions and not reattach said cap on the bottom?

Bob's link http://www.therealbobroberts.net/csc.html

Thanks
 

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Any parts you find soldered to the foil side of the board, LEAVE IT ALONE!

It's an undocumented factory production improvement. Do NOT remove it.
 
AH, HELL!!! Not sure what to do now!!! Maybe I'm wrong and it's not attached to the CSC. I hope not. Bob instructions confused the hell out of me.

I've got to do something with this damn thing before I chuck the bastard.
 
Is your C36 the four legged version ?
P447 or P538 chassis ?

(I've seen your threads but can't recall which K7000 you are working on)
 
If he got it replacement from Bob, then it is the 2-legged version, and is installed via the instructions on Bob's site.

I think his main question was about an undocumented cap on the bottom of the chassis that should be left there. if it was bridging or connected to C36 originally, then it should stay there with the new part...
 
Yeah, I don't know what the hell I was asking, getting tired....

I have seen people slap a new two legged version and do the jumpering with the new caps legs on the bottom of the chassis and NOT remove the old four legged one. (just a thought, something to look at maybe)
And since the cap he's asking about on his is the same value as a new two legged C36, I'd take a second look at it.
A better pic in that area of the bottom side may tell that tale though.

But on the same token....like the other fellas have said, generally when you find something on the bottom side of the chassis like that, leave it alone.
 
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Working my "magic" now....God this a pain in the ass...I can't tell where to solder the new cap in Bob's pics.

Got the jumpers in place, now trying to figure out the legs on the new cap. Left the bottom piece where it is.
 
To make it easy, slide one leg of the new cap under the jumper then bend it back up along itself, like a V shape. Then put a bit of solder there at the point of the V where it touches the jumper. That legs is now soldered to the jumper. Clip the piece sticking up that is not attached to the cap.

Now do the same thing for the other side, and you're done...
 
Here's what I did...

I'm gonna try to fire it....
 

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Oh yeah, gotta fix the HOT first :) Bent the piss out of it.
 
WHOOOHOOOO!!! I fired it up, heard a few clicks, and I got smoke!!!

The smoke is coming from where the red and blue wires connect to the white plastic piece on the outside of the chassis.

WTF does that mean???

Finally....I'm happy with some action. I have a feeling it means more money. Stinks of solder. So I guess I f-ed something up and I'm guessing C36 was bad???
 
If that's what I think it is, it's not plastic, it's ceramic. It's one of the main resistors in the power supply section. R101, IIRC. If it's smoking, that's not good.
 
Here's the damage. Everything else looks to be ok. I'm assuming too much power going through that wire and it cooked. Would that be a sign of a bad regulator?
 

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Bob Roberts says to pull and test the board without that extra cap on the solder side. He thinks it's not suppose to be there with the new cap.
 
Smoke again. I'm done with this. Guess it's time to send it off to Chad.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Fixed the smoking issue. I f-d up C36, one leg wasn't making contact. Fixed! I cut out the burned part of the wire and let it run for a few minutes. It's STILL dead, but at least it's not smoking.

HELP...
 
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