K7000 blowing fuses and H.O.T on X-Men 6 Player

Gump79

Active member
Joined
Oct 22, 2010
Messages
317
Reaction score
55
Location
Williamsville, New York
I have a X-men 6 player with a K7000 that keeps blowing fuses and H.O.T's. The monitor was completely dead when I got the machine so I replaced the flyback, H.O.T. and recapped it. Plugged it in and blew the fuse and new H.O.T. I replaced the H.O.T., voltage regulator, and safety cap. Tried again and blew the H.O.T. but heard a buzzing for about a minute before circuit breaker blew. No glow in neck though. I took the monitor to get the tube checked at my local repair shop ant they said the tube read shorted but they hooked it up to a rejuvenator and it cleared the short but tube may still be junk. Replaced the H.O.T., checked the voltage reg. and saftey cap and tried to fire it up again..... Same thing, buzz for 30 seonds to a minute then breaker pops. Any ideas or should I just start looking for a new tube?
 
I guess my first question would be.... was the fuse blown before you did your chassis work to it?

Also, while it is "buzzing" and before it blows the fuse, check your B+ voltage and report back with it. And make sure you are using slow blow fuses on the chassis, not regular ones.
 
The monitor was dead when I picked up the game. Checked fuse and it was dead. Flyback had cracks and was oozing so I figured give the chassis the rebuild kit. I just tried checking the voltage regulator and the fuse now pops instantly, no more buzzing at all so I can't get the B+. Only buzzes after initial H.O.T. replacement. Any thoughts?
 
does the cabinet have an isolation transformer? make sure cuz if the monitor is getting direct wall power that will f- it up for sure.

Are you hooking up the tube ground wire back to the neckboard? And you are locking in the anode wire to the tube right?

post some pics of how the fly wires meet the neckboard. I want to make sure you didnt mixup the wires.
 
Check C38 to see if it is shorted. Check D18 for a short. Check IC4 for shorts. Check D20/D21 for shorts...
 
Checked C38, D18, D20, and D21; all tested good. IC4 tested good as well. Cabinet does have the isolation transformers installed. I am flipping the boot up on the anode before install to make sure it is locked in the flipping it down to seal it. Is there any other way it locks in? Pictures attached of neck board and chassis. Thanks for the help.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0776[1].jpg
    IMG_0776[1].jpg
    99 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_0777[1].jpg
    IMG_0777[1].jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 15
D19 and D22 should be checked as well. Also make sure R103 doesn't test open.

As long as the two legs of the anode wire are snapped inside the rim of the tube, it is connected properly.
 
The thermal breaker is nice to have when you are working on a fuse popper.

C36 should also be checked for a short. Just like C38, it should show open.

Since it's been blowing the fuse, make sure to recheck the VR. Pins 3 and 4 should NOT have continuity. If they do it was taken out again.
 
Rechecked all my diodes and caps. Found c38 shows resistance when measured. Everthing else checked good. Going to order one up from bob roberts. Going to replace band H.O.T. and the V.R. to be safe. Should I replace flyback to be safe or try it as is?
 
Last edited:
Rechecked all my diodes and caps. Found c38 shows resistance when measured. Everthing else checked good. Going to order one up from bob roberts. Going to replace band H.O.T. and the V.R. to be safe. Should I replace flyback to be safe or try it as is?

I wouldn't replace the flyback. I have never seen any of those components harm the flyback, it is the other way around.
 
Got my parts in today. Replace c38, h.o.t., and vr. Hooked it up and eureka!! Had a flickering picture. Adjusted hold and all is good, just needs some fine tuning to get the colors to match the other side. Thanks to everyone for the help!! What exactly does c38 do in the circuit?
 
Back
Top Bottom