richiewoo
New member
**Apology in advance to Dokert! This is a long post!
OK, so I piggybacked onto someone else's thread with this originally, and it's time to start my own thread.
Have a K7000 (19K7935). When I got it, it was arcing like crazy. I replaced the flyback and had a B+ of just over 165V. I started checking and replacing. Did all the stuff below. At this point, after reading a post from someone else, I started suspecting the yoke, so I Ohmed it.
First, the B+ voltages I'm getting:
From the neckboard: 168V
From the large resistor on the side of the chassis (I forget the number at the moment):
Blue side: 165V
Red side: 175V
So I decided to test the yoke.
Between the yellow and green - 8.1 Ohms
Between the red and blue - .7 Ohms (shorted)
Can anyone verify the yoke measurements if they have time? I'm thinking that it's toast. If so, that's both good and bad. Good because I know the chassis is good, but bad because, well, that would mean a shit yoke.
Also, just for informational purposes:
I got it and it was arcing all over the place
Had the white knob flyback - replaced it.
Powered on and got shutdown. Initial HV "crackle" then nothing.
Fuse good.
Replaced c36
Went over most solder
Did the cap kit
touched up more solder to ensure there was no bridging
replaced VR and HOT tonight too.
OK, so I piggybacked onto someone else's thread with this originally, and it's time to start my own thread.
Have a K7000 (19K7935). When I got it, it was arcing like crazy. I replaced the flyback and had a B+ of just over 165V. I started checking and replacing. Did all the stuff below. At this point, after reading a post from someone else, I started suspecting the yoke, so I Ohmed it.
First, the B+ voltages I'm getting:
From the neckboard: 168V
From the large resistor on the side of the chassis (I forget the number at the moment):
Blue side: 165V
Red side: 175V
So I decided to test the yoke.
Between the yellow and green - 8.1 Ohms
Between the red and blue - .7 Ohms (shorted)
Can anyone verify the yoke measurements if they have time? I'm thinking that it's toast. If so, that's both good and bad. Good because I know the chassis is good, but bad because, well, that would mean a shit yoke.
Also, just for informational purposes:
I got it and it was arcing all over the place
Had the white knob flyback - replaced it.
Powered on and got shutdown. Initial HV "crackle" then nothing.
Fuse good.
Replaced c36
Went over most solder
Did the cap kit
touched up more solder to ensure there was no bridging
replaced VR and HOT tonight too.