K7000 Arc/Spark Issue

Make sure the black wire from the tube is connect to the ground point on the neckboard....
 
Make sure the black wire from the tube is connect to the ground point on the neckboard....

Hmmm... the only ground point on the neckboard I see is a single pin (circled in red) which connects directly to the flyback.

The black wire from the tube is actually not connected to anything right now. (circled in green) I suppose that could be the problem! But I'm not sure where it is supposed to go. I tried connecting it to the chassis mounting frame but am still getting the arcing problem.

 
Okay, usually when I see that wire with the clip on the end like that, it goes under a screw on the top wall. There might also be a wire there that goes to the neckboard, and maybe not...
 
Okay, usually when I see that wire with the clip on the end like that, it goes under a screw on the top wall. There might also be a wire there that goes to the neckboard, and maybe not...

I just tried attaching it there. There is still arcing in the same location. I also looked around for another wire but saw nothing.

Could anything aside from improper grounding cause this problem?
 
I had arcing with mine but it was due to ultra high b+ voltage. My LV regulator had failed, too. Lots more than capacitors fail on these monitors.

I'm currently in the process of installing a Bob Roberts deluxe kit, replacement HV board and an LV2000.
 
I had arcing with mine but it was due to ultra high b+ voltage. My LV regulator had failed, too. Lots more than capacitors fail on these monitors.

I'm currently in the process of installing a Bob Roberts deluxe kit, replacement HV board and an LV2000.

Hmmm... that's what I was afraid of. (That the caps and flyback weren't the only issue). I do have a new HOT and fuse for this board, but I'm sure those aren't the issue. I decided it would be a good idea to have them just in case. But like I said, there was no arcing before I pulled the chassis out. So I'm thinking I did something wrong (whether while working on the board or re-installing it in the cabinet) to cause the arcing to happen.

It sounds ghetto, but is there any way I can just insulate the chassis to prevent the arcing? Like placing a sheet of plastic between the chassis frame and mounting board (both are metal).

Man, I'm really starting to hate this monitor.
 
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It will most likely start arcing somewhere else. I've seen a big spark jump from the chassis to the tube.

First off, try doing a continuity check between the spring that stretches across the back of the tube, and a ground point on the chassis (with it installed). If you have no continuity, you need to make some.

Next, check over the chassis to make sure:

1) you trimmed all of your leads

2) nothing on the chassis is touching the tube directly (except by wires), just the frame... (Sometimes a new cap may be a little too tall)
 
It will most likely start arcing somewhere else. I've seen a big spark jump from the chassis to the tube.

First off, try doing a continuity check between the spring that stretches across the back of the tube, and a ground point on the chassis (with it installed). If you have no continuity, you need to make some.

Next, check over the chassis to make sure:

1) you trimmed all of your leads

2) nothing on the chassis is touching the tube directly (except by wires), just the frame... (Sometimes a new cap may be a little too tall)

Okay, I checked and know for sure that all leads are trimmed and nothing on the chassis is touching the tube.

The spring (actually, it is a sort of wire in this case) that stretches across the back of the tube connects directly to the wire that I circled in green a few posts up. So, are you saying that I should attach that clip directly to the monitor chassis itself? I thought the chassis was at high voltage. I have tried attaching it to the mounting frame before, (The big flat metal plate in the top-left of my photo) but that didn't work.

I know that my lack of knowledge on this topic is almost embarrasing, but I am always trying to learn more. You gotta start somewhere! :D
 
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Okay, see this wire (yellow arrow) that is connected the neckboard with solder? follow it to the other end (probably a screw on the left wall). Attach that green circle wire to the same point...

assaultprob.jpg
 
Okay, see this wire (yellow arrow) that is connected the neckboard with solder? follow it to the other end (probably a screw on the left wall). Attach that green circle wire to the same point...

Cool! That fixed my problem completely :D. No more sparks anywhere! Just a nice, bright, crisp, freshly fixed k7000 monitor in one of the coolest late '80s games ever.

Thanks a lot modessitt!



(It looks much better in person - the screen is almost perfect.)


I ought to put a plaque on the game with your name on it!
 
Yep. now adjust your vertical size and vertical position a little so that Assault is centered on the screen and fully visible...
 
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