K7000 and G07 issues

luke9511

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Hey everyone, I finally got around to adjusting the K7000 in X-men vs street fighter and The G07 in galaxian and was unable to get them dialed in

Let's start with galaxian, I checked the B+ and it was 113v, adjusted it to 120v but the right side looks like it's a bit cut off and melting a bit, I also adjusted the B+ on the G07 on dig dug and it was 128v and got it down to 120v and it looks fantastic

There is a difference between the two, the one in galaxian has the mod mentioned in the arcade parts and repair cap kit and the one in dig dug does not, so I do not know if that's the issue

For the K7000 no matter which pots I adjusted I couldn't get any of the colors or brightness to get better and eventually I lost red, I don't know what else to check on this one to fix it, also there is a lot of raster lines on the screen and I have a feeling it is connected with the other issues

 

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With the k7000, start with the simple stuff. Reflow the signal header pins. The red color seems to always be the one that goes bad. Then check the red transistor on the neck board.
 
It's not the pins as I reflowed all of them when I had the chassis out for repair last time
 
We need pics of the chassis. I believe you're missing red on the K7000, so if not signal pins, then you likely have a bad transistor either on the neckboard or deflection board. Also possible to have a bad IC1, but less common. Check the flowchart.
 
thankfully I still have pictures
 

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Red cutoff pot looks broken:
1742406087091.png
Failing that, pls take pic of underside of both boards
 
Your red input pin doesn't look super-reflowed from that pic, though it's not very close up either. I would heat it up and remove the older solder and replace with fresh. Red is common to loose because this pin takes a lot of force when the header it put on and off.

Given you had red and it went away, that really says "cold solder joint" or loose connection somewhere to me.

Also don't rule out TPG issues. I once spent an hour working a similar issue only to find the wire had broken off my TPG header and I didn't notice! Try a different input source.

The easiest way to T/S this is short the Red transistor to ground on the neckboard, you can do this by clipping a wire to the metal tab and touching the other end to ground. DO NOT do this if you're not 100% sure what you're doing. If the whole screen becomes red, then you know the issue is not the neck transistor. You can also just swap the red and green transistors and see if the issue becomes lack of green. If this all checks out, then do the same on the deflection board side. If that checks out, then you have a possible IC1 issue.
 
Your red input pin doesn't look super-reflowed from that pic, though it's not very close up either. I would heat it up and remove the older solder and replace with fresh. Red is common to loose because this pin takes a lot of force when the header it put on and off.

Given you had red and it went away, that really says "cold solder joint" or loose connection somewhere to me.

Also don't rule out TPG issues. I once spent an hour working a similar issue only to find the wire had broken off my TPG header and I didn't notice! Try a different input source.

The easiest way to T/S this is short the Red transistor to ground on the neckboard, you can do this by clipping a wire to the metal tab and touching the other end to ground. DO NOT do this if you're not 100% sure what you're doing. If the whole screen becomes red, then you know the issue is not the neck transistor. You can also just swap the red and green transistors and see if the issue becomes lack of green. If this all checks out, then do the same on the deflection board side. If that checks out, then you have a possible IC1 issue.
That was from before I fixed it which is why it looks that way

EDIT my tpg is brand new so i dont think the wires would bbe bad
 
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Okay I am putting both of these on the back burner for now as I cannot properly test or adjust them in the cab, so I have managed to order both an external power supply and a B&K 470 tube tester/rejuvenator, once those and the cr23 adapter I will need to find for it get here then I will pull the monitors one at a time and do everything from the bench, thank you all very much for your help and advice so far!
 

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