K7000 adjustment or cap kit needed??

F14 Tomcat

New member
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
nova scotia, Canada
Hello, I am a monitor newbie but am eager to learn.
I've just read the k7000 faq but didn't really see info on my particular issue. So, here goes. I've got a wg k7000 I'm trying to set up. It powers up fine and displays a clear,stable, but somewhat faint image??
Seems like there is no black? When I adjust the brightness pot (ccw) it appears to begin to help (become black where it should, make color more vibrant) but as I turn it more it powers off the monitor?
Anyone have experience with this problem?
Does this mean a cap kit is required?
I've checked the manual, there is no pot for black level as on some chassis?
I'm not sure if it would matter but I'm hooking up a 48in1 board? I'm using the horizontal negative sync pin only as the board is negative composite sync.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Is this a 19" or 25" K7000?

There are two brightness controls - one on the flyback (bottom pot) and another mounted on the board (far right) or on a remote. There is also a contrast pot next to this brightness pot on the board.

If you turn up the brightness and it shuts off, then it would seem that the increased workload is causing the B+ to rise and your HV cutoff circuit is cutting in to save your monitor. if this is happening, then it could be caused by caps, but it also may be your flyback. Check the flyback for small cracks around the focus and brightness pots. if you see them, replace it. Also, if it has white knobs, replace it.

It may be a good idea to post a pic of your chassis, just in case it's a K7000A, or perhaps we'll see something obvious...
 
Here are a few pics

Here are a few pics of the chassis. Also one of the screen image I'm getting. I tried to turn the hv screen pot ccw, it did help a bit in conjunction with turning contrast up and brightness pot down a bit too.
If I turn the screen pot too far down, it shuts off.
I tried to test voltage on the white resistor on the left of the chassis, I put my red on the rear leg (closest to the hv) then it shut down even before I could put black lead on the chassis.
There doesn't seem to be any burns/cracks on the flyback?
Are the horizontal lines across the screen indicative of anything?
 

Attachments

  • arcademonitorpics 007.jpg
    arcademonitorpics 007.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 23
  • arcademonitorpics 008.jpg
    arcademonitorpics 008.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 22
And the screen image.
 

Attachments

  • arcademonitorpics 006.jpg
    arcademonitorpics 006.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 36
  • arcademonitorpics 005.jpg
    arcademonitorpics 005.jpg
    107.2 KB · Views: 29
Your colors/pots might be jacked way up. I just had a monitor like that where the red and blue were cranked. Adjust them with the color screen to the point where the color you are adjusting is bright but not losing focus/bleeding over to other colors.
 
just in case it's a K7000A

Ruh-roh ....

Might need a good ol' tube rejuvination as well.

I'd start by unplugging the video signal, set the brightness and contrast to about center, then adjust the SCREEN control on the flyback "just" until the screen looks black, then plug your video cable back in and start from there.
 
the retrace lines(horizonta lines) show that the brightness pot on the fly is cranked up super high to compensate, i suppose it *could* be caps or all the color pots are adjusted too low, but every k7000 ive seen with a dim pic like that has either needed a tube replaced or rejuvenated.

WIth the brightness up that high and such a kraptastic lack of color, i vote tube.

makes friends with somebody with a rejuver and report back
 
Ruh-roh ....

Might need a good ol' tube rejuvination as well.

I'd start by unplugging the video signal, set the brightness and contrast to about center, then adjust the SCREEN control on the flyback "just" until the screen looks black, then plug your video cable back in and start from there.

oh boy that is a 7000a isnt it? uhoh. THis could be either/or now. Id still proceed by testing the tube next.
 
Back
Top Bottom