k7000 7602

dosmame

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Hi, I've got a 19 inch k7000 7602 that AFAIK hasn't had a cap kit, and doesn't seem to have any dry joints or cracks.

Problem is it gets a good picture for a minute or 2, then shuts down.
Once it's shut down it won't stay on.
It will get HT for quarter of a second but only if the power is disconnected for 10 seconds before retrying.
No neck glow.

The monitor reportedly shutdown intermittanly when I bought the cab, but there was no evidence of this, dispite MUCH testing :)

I've read the various articles kicking around about these monitors, but nothing seems to fit the problem I have.


Any ideas would be gratefully received :)
TIA DM
 
hmmm just noticed if I leave it unplugged to have my tea, I'll get a picture for a minute

thinking heat related?
 
ok, getting somewhere, B+ is 152V

If I leave it off for 10 minutes, B+ is back to 123.3V.....then 'click' after 30 seconds it's up to 152v


...now I'm stuck as I've no varistat

I've re-done the usual bad solder points, but still the same


..any ideas?
 
Last edited:
it needs a cap kit badly

it needs a cap kit badly and reflow all the big power resisters. then go over it again reflowing any thing that looks burnt or dull looking.

plus all the headder pins, H.O.T and VR.

Peace
Buffett
 
it needs a cap kit badly and reflow all the big power resisters. then go over it again reflowing any thing that looks burnt or dull looking.

plus all the headder pins, H.O.T and VR.

Peace
Buffett

zing!

yeah, K7000s that have whack ass B+ will need caps, the IC4 VR (the STR part # looks like 19" models have different numbers from the 25" according to Bob Roberts: 19" chassis = STR3123 or STR30123). the large white block resistor mounted outside with what I believe are blue and pink/red wires is also essential to the B+, if it's bad, I think that will cause your B+ to skyrocket.

Bob Roberts sells a K7000 rebuild kit, flyback and all. the voltage regulator you purchase separately, and you'll have to read the numbers off the one you have to get the correct replacement. IC4 is mounted in the corner on the large outer metal heatsink wall.
 
No need to replace a VR or resistor as of yet if it's measuring okay. It's most likely caused by caps and traces...
 
Thanks for that....I actually made things different/worse in the end by resoldering, my B+ is 143V steady now.

I'll post the results once i've got the kit installed

cheers
DM
 
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