K7000 25" won't sync after new flyback and cap kit

scoreonegames

New member
Joined
Feb 18, 2014
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
Holrege, Nebraska
K7000 25" won't sync after new flyback and cap kit

Had a K7000 working but in need of caps, heard a couple of snaps from around the flyback when testing so replaced it at the same time. When done it came up without sync. I checked all caps to make sure I didn't put one in backwards and did some other troubleshooting, reflowed some solder and still have this. Any ideas what I may have done wrong or what to check?
 

Attachments

  • 7000screen.jpg
    7000screen.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 40
things to check
do you have the sync wire hooked to only one pin and jumpered to both?
have you tried adjusting the Holds?
you may have an IC or transistor bad.
did you reflow the solder on the input header pins? (remove old solder and reflow new solder NOT just add solder to old)
did it sync before the cap kit and flyback?
 
Sync was fine before I recapped. Plugged in another monitor to make sure I didn't pull or break something on cabinet to monitor wiring and it syncs fine.

Adjusted everything and can't get to clear up. Seems there's about 4 images going sideways on the screen. Can get things calmer but picture about as close as I can get.

Did not reflow on inputs, might just try that as could have pulled something loose when unhooking/hooking back up.

Checked the HOT, seems to meter ok. Didn't look at anything else yet.

Thanks!
 
that almost looks like your trying to feed a standard res feed into a med res monitor or vice versa, but since you have said its the same monitor from the same game, cant be that....

you have a horizontal hold issue, not vertical hold. im sure you have, but just to be sure, have you messed with that pot, the H Hold?
 
if you have a remote board, the H. Hold isn't on it. follow the remote wires to the back edge of the chassis, you'll see a pot mounted there (or 2, permitting you have a 50/60 as well)

also, do consider you just replaced a lot of electronic components on the chassis; it's rather customary for you to have to fine tune the pots again afterward, especially if the original caps were in fact original from when it was made and very old.

I'm also willing to bet you only did the caps and didn't reflow anything else. if you want to know what else to do, PM me. otherwise you may have other problems soon. :)
 
give the chassis a good re-flow.

recheck your work again to see if anything stands out.

make sure none of the pots on the chassis or remote board were cracked.

if you hit a brick wall and need it repaired, your welcome to send it in.

Peace
Buffett
 
Back
Top Bottom