k7000 25"-with video input pcb gets a trace fried?

interesting hypothesis. I wanna know too. you'd have to find it moderately amusing if it wasn't the monitor doing it at all.

almost impossible. My arcade game (wacko) works perfectly.

I just have to change the blown fuse every time I test this monitor with it.

I'm not going to mess with this again until after cax most likely.
 
Alright, I thought of the next step :)

If you remove the fuse on the monitor, then plug it in and see if it blows the fuse. If it does, then it has to be the stuff right at the beginning or the actual ac plug or something.
 
That filter cap is fine. Still curious if the cab fuse will blow with no fuse in the chassis.

interesting hypothesis. I wanna know too. you'd have to find it moderately amusing if it wasn't the monitor doing it at all.

Alright, I thought of the next step :)

If you remove the fuse on the monitor, then plug it in and see if it blows the fuse. If it does, then it has to be the stuff right at the beginning or the actual ac plug or something.

I absolutely truly appreciate you guys sticking with me on this thread. I may actually be able to get back to this before cax. (I'm ahead of schedule on my games being prepped).

I will report back.
 
I have seen the black "block" shaped capacitor right next to the fuseholder clips on k7000 go shorted and blow the cabinet fuse.
 
I have seen the black "block" shaped capacitor right next to the fuseholder clips on k7000 go shorted and blow the cabinet fuse.

I want to say it tested as shorted (while still in circuit). I have another k7000 chassis and it tested the same, so I assumed it was ok. I may be remembering this incorrectly and will check it tonight. (I'll pull it and test it).
 
Ok, I had time today.

First thing, I pulled the black box cap (c62 I think). tested fine out of circuit.

Put it back in. As I'm doing to it appears to me that the trace/pad it is on is separated from the chassis. Like it was blown/lifted. I didn't see it before.

So I get in and get that thing repaired, nice and solid.

I plug in the monitor without the chassis fuse. It didn't blow the cab fuse .

Ok, so I drop the 2amp fuse back in the chassis, and power it on.

I'm in business.
100% working now , b+ is 130.2 , picture is nice.

thanks for hanging with me on this one guys.
 
Congrarts! That was a tough one.

Maybe it shouldn't have been that difficult. I approached it, by pulling and testing everything on that a/c rail. Pulled the big mylar caps. I pulled many parts for testing that I didn't bother listing here, because it would take too long, and I always forget exact positions by the time I get back to the computer.

I have to say that these tough ones make me better at troubleshooting future chassis'. :)

Thing is I was getting continuity down the rails during prior testing. I can only guess that as I pushed down on certain points as I tested along the rail, maybe the lifted trace regained connection momentarily?
 
isn't that the thermistor for the degauss coil? I'm guessing what happened was the AC voltage had nowhere to go. if it overloads on one side, that'll pop some fuses. same thing if you have bad connection to one of those infamous power resistors I speak of a lot.

pretty obscure issue. I'll keep it in mind in the future. bravo guy of tron.
 
Do you think the component with the bad trace was touching the frame? My guess is when the owner pushed down to connect the video he was shorting it.
 
Do you think the component with the bad trace was touching the frame? My guess is when the owner pushed down to connect the video he was shorting it.

could have been I suppose.

I'm pretty diligent about cutting down legs that are too long that extend beyond the solder joint.
 
those things sit about 1/2" off the frame. you'd have to have some pretty long parts to touch that. :p
 
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