k7000 25"-with video input pcb gets a trace fried?

I get 22-23 ohms on the a/c wires on 6 working k7000's.

I'll check it. I may be as well. (I assume this is with the chassis fuse installed?) I thnk I may still get a continuity beep at 23 ohms (not sure).


If that is the problem, it only leaves the little post (where both wires are mounted to the side of the chassis) as the problem. Meaning the wires are stripped inside that little spot and are shorting to each other.
 
Is there an insulator behind the hot and the voltage regulator? Nothing is touching the alminum parts that shouldn't be? I have seen a few k7000's people replaced the hots in and left the insulator out. I'm assuming the thermal paste had them running for a short time, lol.
Are the hot and VR testing good? Only one leg of the hot should ground, not sure which VR you have, there are 2 possibilities and they are pinned different.
I'm running out of things I've come across that were shorted. I can reference anything you need.
 
Is there an insulator behind the hot and the voltage regulator? Nothing is touching the alminum parts that shouldn't be? I have seen a few k7000's people replaced the hots in and left the insulator out. I'm assuming the thermal paste had them running for a short time, lol.
Are the hot and VR testing good? Only one leg of the hot should ground, not sure which VR you have, there are 2 possibilities and they are pinned different.
I'm running out of things I've come across that were shorted. I can reference anything you need.

I got 27 ohms between the 2 A/C points. Which when put into beep mode, gave me a beep as well.

I can look at the HOT and VR, though they look original. The VR threw me a bit because I've never seen it before, but research showed it to be stock.

When I hit the HOT with the meter, the center leg does NOT beep/have continuity/short to the chassis frame, but the 2 outside legs do.

I realize I am not a k7000 expert. (I've worked on maybe 20-40 of them), but it seems like everything I'm exploring is for the chassis fuse being blown. (which isn't my problem at all).

f**&@#$)ing chassis hahahha

thanks for hangin with me on this one.
 
Curious if the chassis had a 1 amp fuse which one would blow or is it still blowing the cab fuse with no fuse on the chassis?

I haven't powered it up with no fuse on the chassis.

I can install a 1amp fuse and see what happens. (not today though)



THis has a "feeling" to it of something )@*#&) stupid and obvious. though I can't imagine what at this point.
 
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Is there an insulator behind the hot and the voltage regulator? Nothing is touching the alminum parts that shouldn't be? I have seen a few k7000's people replaced the hots in and left the insulator out. I'm assuming the thermal paste had them running for a short time, lol.
Are the hot and VR testing good? Only one leg of the hot should ground, not sure which VR you have, there are 2 possibilities and they are pinned different.
I'm running out of things I've come across that were shorted. I can reference anything you need.

Both hot and vr have the plastic insulator.

I pulled c36 , 37, 38 to test out of circuit, none of them were shorted.
 
didnt notice in the thread, have you checked the HOT and VR to make sure they are not shot?

I could see the VR going bad in a no isolation transformer condition. Not so sure about the HOT going bad though.

That is the correct VR for that chassis.
 
didnt notice in the thread, have you checked the HOT and VR to make sure they are not shot?

I could see the VR going bad in a no isolation transformer condition. Not so sure about the HOT going bad though.

That is the correct VR for that chassis.

I can pull both and test/replace them. I am not claiming to be the all-chassis expert, but I don't think I've ever seen a bad hot or vr cause a cabinets main power fuse to blow.
 
I can pull both and test/replace them. I am not claiming to be the all-chassis expert, but I don't think I've ever seen a bad hot or vr cause a cabinets main power fuse to blow.

I have.

Besides, wouldnt be the strangest thing to happen.
 
if a HOT is shorted bad enough I think it could happen lol. still find the chassis fuse not blowing thing to be a little bizarre.

might be the flyback. I just woke up and brain is hazy and can't remember if that was touched at all.
 
Has it been asked?

What size/type fuse is in the monitor and what size/type fuse is on the game?

A 2 amp Slo on the monitor chassis will probably outlast a 3-4 amp fast on the game.
 
Has it been asked?

What size/type fuse is in the monitor and what size/type fuse is on the game?

A 2 amp Slo on the monitor chassis will probably outlast a 3-4 amp fast on the game.

2amp slo blo monitor

3amp slo blo game
 
2amp slo blo monitor

3amp slo blo game

In that case. Huh... Is the earth ground strap in place on the monitor? Take it off (also disconnect the video signal) and measure for AC and DC voltage from the frame of the monitor to the ground strap. Unless of course it still blows the fuse then never mind. :)

Somethings screwy.
 
In that case. Huh... Is the earth ground strap in place on the monitor? Take it off (also disconnect the video signal) and measure for AC and DC voltage from the frame of the monitor to the ground strap. Unless of course it still blows the fuse then never mind. :)

Somethings screwy.

I haven't connected an earth ground to this monitor up to this point.
 
and no signal, right?

quick short version-
I got the chassis in non working order. The owner said it powered on, without video connected from the pcb. But when he connected video it blew the(chassis) fuse and fried his pcb.

I got in, found D20 and D21 bad, replaced them. I've exclusively used the craftymechTPG.

Every time I power up the game with TPG connected, my 3amp slo blo main power fuse blows on my Wacko. (but chassis fuse has never blown yet)

I have not tried it without video (tpg) connected yet. I can later tonight. I'm kinda just hoping to find a bad part with all of hte pulling and testing I'm doing so I don't have to keep blowing through these @!$%#$%^@! fuses.
 
quick short version-
I got the chassis in non working order. The owner said it powered on, without video connected from the pcb. But when he connected video it blew the(chassis) fuse and fried his pcb.

I got in, found D20 and D21 bad, replaced them. I've exclusively used the craftymechTPG.

Every time I power up the game with TPG connected, my 3amp slo blo main power fuse blows on my Wacko. (but chassis fuse has never blown yet)

I have not tried it without video (tpg) connected yet. I can later tonight. I'm kinda just hoping to find a bad part with all of hte pulling and testing I'm doing so I don't have to keep blowing through these @!$%#$%^@! fuses.

I'm sure it will still blow the fuse without a signal. I'd be taking a look at the large parts on teh monitor at this point.

Dont rule out the filter cap being bad either.
 
I'm sure it will still blow the fuse without a signal. I'd be taking a look at the large parts on teh monitor at this point.

Dont rule out the filter cap being bad either.

I pulled the filter cap and it tested at 548 uf (supposed to be 560), I was pretty sure there was no issue there.

I can drop in a 680 uf that I keep on hand for g07's I guess.
 
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