K7000 25 in vertical position not filling the screen

[curtislv426]

hi guys I've got a 25-inch k7000 I'm having trouble filling the screen from top to bottom with the vertical position. I've got about 2 inches of gap on the bottom. I gave it a cap kit and a flyback but that didn't help out any. I've also adjusted the 50 60 hertz dial to the appropriate position. If I turn it until it fills the screen then it distorts the image too much. I've also tried another remote board and vertical position pot. There is a heavy inch of blank at the bottom I can not adjust the image to. See image. My width cap kit will arrive today so I can adjust that later tonight. I could not adjust the width coil at all. It is either damaged from using the wrong tool or it is locked up. I ordered a set of tv tweakers from Amazon and I could not get a bite on the hex dial. Did I order the wrong tool? I've included a link to the set I bought. What else should I try?

Philmore 6 -pc Universal Color TV Radio Alignment Trimmer Tool Set - - Amazon.com

Philmore 6 -pc Universal Color TV Radio Alignment Trimmer Tool Set - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Thanks
Curt

 

[Alup]

hi guys I've got a 25-inch k7000 I'm having trouble filling the screen from top to bottom with the vertical position. I've got about 2 inches of gap on the bottom. I gave it a cap kit and a flyback but that didn't help out any. I've also adjusted the 50 60 hertz dial to the appropriate position. If I turn it until it fills the screen then it distorts the image too much. I've also tried another remote board and vertical position pot. There is a heavy inch of blank at the bottom I can not adjust the image to. See image. My width cap kit will arrive today so I can adjust that later tonight. I could not adjust the width coil at all. It is either damaged from using the wrong tool or it is locked up. I ordered a set of tv tweakers from Amazon and I could not get a bite on the hex dial. Did I order the wrong tool? I've included a link to the set I bought. What else should I try?

Philmore 6 -pc Universal Color TV Radio Alignment Trimmer Tool Set - - Amazon.com

Philmore 6 -pc Universal Color TV Radio Alignment Trimmer Tool Set - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Thanks
Curt

I use these tools
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q4YGQS

And just use this for width caps

BOJACK 15 Values 150 Pcs Metallized Polypropylene Film DC Capacitor 400V/0.01uF ~ 0.56uF 630V/ 0.001uF ~ 0.068uF Assortment Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

BOJACK 15 Values 150 Pcs Metallized Polypropylene Film DC Capacitor 400V/0.01uF ~ 0.56uF 630V/ 0.001uF ~ 0.068uF Assortment Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[curtislv426]

Good Lord. That's a lot of width caps. Thanks for the link. Good score. Do you think the tools that I provided a link from should be the appropriate fit for the width coil though? Like I said I think it might have been damaged or something on the inside

 

[Alup]

Not really sure, I have not tried that kit. Pictures alone dont show the sizing of the hex parts. These are pretty standard though, I would imagine that any decent adjustment kit would work. I have had a couple of Philco old stock tools in the past and have not liked them very much. I tend to break them. The adjustment tools I find the be the best quality are made by a company called GC. If you have an electronic supply store near you that has been in business for a while they should carry these. You can normally pick them up for a few bucks because the stores want to clear out old stock.

I will give you a tip though. If you do think its just stuck, You can spray some Deoxit or contact cleaner down in the hole. Make sure the chassis is de-energized. Then take a small flat head or allan key wrench and just force that sucker over. Once its free you should be good to go. Warning though, I have broken width coils doing this. Most times it works but every so often I get one that had what appears to be glue or soda in it and it will just snap the width coil if you try to force it.

Luckily APAR carries them
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...-parts/wells-gardner-009a2838-002-width-coil/
if you do break them.'

One more thing you can try, Desolder it from the board, take it out and try to drive the core from the bottom side. if you are able to, unscrew the core out of it completly and just flip it over then re-insert it. That way the top side of the core has a nice non stripped surface facing up.

If you are in a time crunch, you can just remove the coil, place a resistor of the same value in coil spot and just change the width cap. Not recommend but can work in a pinch. I know you should measure these using Inductance but trust me, the width circuit on these K7000's is pretty robust and can take it. I would not consider this a repair, more of a temp fix. I would replace the coil as soon as possible.

 

[curtislv426]

Not really sure, I have not tried that kit. Pictures alone dont show the sizing of the hex parts. These are pretty standard though, I would imagine that any decent adjustment kit would work. I have had a couple of Philco old stock tools in the past and have not liked them very much. I tend to break them. The adjustment tools I find the be the best quality are made by a company called GC. If you have an electronic supply store near you that has been in business for a while they should carry these. You can normally pick them up for a few bucks because the stores want to clear out old stock.

I will give you a tip though. If you do think its just stuck, You can spray some Deoxit or contact cleaner down in the hole. Make sure the chassis is de-energized. Then take a small flat head or allan key wrench and just force that sucker over. Once its free you should be good to go. Warning though, I have broken width coils doing this. Most times it works but every so often I get one that had what appears to be glue or soda in it and it will just snap the width coil if you try to force it.

Luckily APAR carries them
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...-parts/wells-gardner-009a2838-002-width-coil/
if you do break them.'

One more thing you can try, Desolder it from the board, take it out and try to drive the core from the bottom side. if you are able to, unscrew the core out of it completly and just flip it over then re-insert it. That way the top side of the core has a nice non stripped surface facing up.

If you are in a time crunch, you can just remove the coil, place a resistor of the same value in coil spot and just change the width cap. Not recommend but can work in a pinch. I know you should measure these using Inductance but trust me, the width circuit on these K7000's is pretty robust and can take it. I would not consider this a repair, more of a temp fix. I would replace the coil as soon as possible.

Clever ideas man. Thanks a bunch. Any advice for the vertical not filling screen ?

 

[Alup]

Clever ideas man. Thanks a bunch. Any advice for the vertical not filling screen ?

Change the width cap. There is a Formula to figure out the right one but... honestly its just as easy to just try one, if its not right go up or down 1 value. This sounds really dumb but if the screen is about half an inch to one inch off, just throw a 224 in it. Lower value equals wider screen, Higher value equals narrower screen.

For some reason, I tend to just gravitate to a 224 cap. Maybe its just me but that one seems to be the right one 80% of the time.

Has this been tube swapped? I do not normally encounter this issue unless its been tube swapped.

Swap resistors R94 and R95 with new ones. 1 in every 3 K7000's ive worked on these have gone bad. They are right infront of the flyback and to the side of it.

I should put together a K7000 shotgun fix kit, Like i replace so many of the same parts on so many of these that when I get a K7000 in 90% of the time I will just replace all of these parts. Are they all needing replace? probably not but it saves me so much time troubleshooting that its just easier.

 

[curtislv426]

Change the width cap. There is a Formula to figure out the right one but... honestly its just as easy to just try one, if its not right go up or down 1 value. This sounds really dumb but if the screen is about half an inch to one inch off, just throw a 224 in it. Lower value equals wider screen, Higher value equals narrower screen.

For some reason, I tend to just gravitate to a 224 cap. Maybe its just me but that one seems to be the right one 80% of the time.

Has this been tube swapped? I do not normally encounter this issue unless its been tube swapped.

Swap resistors R94 and R95 with new ones. 1 in every 3 K7000's ive worked on these have gone bad. They are right infront of the flyback and to the side of it.

I should put together a K7000 shotgun fix kit, Like i replace so many of the same parts on so many of these that when I get a K7000 in 90% of the time I will just replace all of these parts. Are they all needing replace? probably not but it saves me so much time troubleshooting that its just easier.

When I got this monitor, I realized while I was troubleshooting it that someone had put a hantarex polo tube in it. It had a narrow image and image was squished on right side if it got anywhere near the edge while adjusting horizontal pot. It had 3 of the .1 uf width caps stacked on top of each other. I removed two of the .1uf caps so it just had one in there but r97 got red hot and burnt up right away. I replaced that resistor with a used r97 . R99 and r96 got really hot as well but still passed my ohm check. I then put in the correct width cap .39 uf capacitor and it didn't help issue at all. Also I did another cap kit on this even though it had fresh caps on it from previous owner. Just wanted to make sure. I then went on a curb adventure and found a 25 in sanyo tv with an almost identical yoke ohm reading for a k7000. ( I punched the tube id in the tube database and it wasnt even on there for some reason) I mounted the new tube and it fills the screen so much better but I'm not quite there yet. So you mention a high value of width cap might help with the vertical filling the screen but I thought you said a lower value would widen the screen. Also is it my understanding that the width cap will also effect the vertical?

 

[Alup]

When I got this monitor, I realized while I was troubleshooting it that someone had put a hantarex polo tube in it. It had a narrow image and image was squished on right side if it got anywhere near the edge while adjusting horizontal pot. It had 3 of the .1 uf width caps stacked on top of each other. I removed two of the .1uf caps so it just had one in there but r97 got red hot and burnt up right away. I replaced that resistor with a used r97 . R99 and r96 got really hot as well but still passed my ohm check. I then put in the correct width cap .39 uf capacitor and it didn't help issue at all. Also I did another cap kit on this even though it had fresh caps on it from previous owner. Just wanted to make sure. I then went on a curb adventure and found a 25 in sanyo tv with an almost identical yoke ohm reading for a k7000. ( I punched the tube id in the tube database and it wasnt even on there for some reason) I mounted the new tube and it fills the screen so much better but I'm not quite there yet. So you mention a high value of width cap might help with the vertical filling the screen but I thought you said a lower value would widen the screen. Also is it my understanding that the width cap will also effect the vertical?

I dont see where I said to put a bigger width cap in... Also, that is alot... lets start off with the resistor thing...

If you have a resistor that is heating up and the resistor is the right value it means that the wattage of the resistor is wrong. Lets say you have a 1/4watt resistor in there and its getting warm or even hot. Then you need to swap that for a 1/2watt or better.

As for the the Width caps. They all have a number on them. This correlates to the Value. For instance.
A 224 capacitor is a 0.22uf capacitor. The one that I use is 400V rated. Your .39uf capacitor is a larger value and its number would be 394 i think. The letters on them are the tolerance. Most commonly you will find them with a J on them. That indicates they are a ±5% capacitor.

I have never had a horizontal width cap effect the vertical width of the monitor, There are other capacitors and parts you can change to increase/decrease that but the Horizontal width cap from every monitor chassis I have worked on only effects the Horizontal width. Plus. Even if it did, you have a vertical width Pot so easy to fix.

As a fair warning to you or anyone else who is going to mod the chassis to change the width cap. Wells Gardner has Always warned users not to change this part value due to it being part of the X-Ray circuit. I will say that almost everyone ignores this however, It is quite common practice to change that cap to make the picture fit a new tube. But the warning is there and I had to bring it up.

(Also, WG never had the intention of users swapping Monitor tubes for TV tubes. But hey... we do it anyways to keep our stuff working.)

 

[curtislv426]

Change the width cap. There is a Formula to figure out the right one but... honestly its just as easy to just try one, if its not right go up or down 1 value. This sounds really dumb but if the screen is about half an inch to one inch off, just throw a 224 in it.

Maybe I'm misreading what you said here . I thought you were saying to put a 224 uf cap in. Lol..... Gotcha. Put a .22 uf in.

 

[curtislv426]

Found a thread with the same problem about vertical position being too high. Ian Kellogg recommended to check the value of resistors r80, r82, r83 and r100. I'll also swap the 2 resistors you mentioned if I have extras.

25" K7000 Vertical Position - too high

I have a nice k7000 I just picked up, looks great overall but I can't adjust the picture low enough down on the tube using the remote board, it's about an inch too high. How to fix? Bad pot on the board??

forums.arcade-museum.com

 

[Alup]

Are you having a vertical size or horizontal size issue? The width coil adjusts the horizontal size. The picture looks like you have a horizontal size issue plus a vertical position problem.

 

[curtislv426]

Are you having a vertical size or horizontal size issue? The width coil adjusts the horizontal size. The picture looks like you have a horizontal size issue plus a vertical position problem.

That is correct. I have both. Im confident I will be able to correct the horizontal width tonight though from your tips and help earlier in this thread

 

[curtislv426]

Checking the resistors Ian mentioned in the past for another member having same problems. Just checked resistor r82 and it is only ohming at .471. It is supposed to be an 820 ohm resistor. So I might have found the problem with the vertical issue. Whoops. Edit. Nevermind. The manual says it's an 820 ohm resistor but on the part it says 390. Weird thing is I get .389 on the 2k setting and .470 on the ohm/continuity setting and nothing on the 200 setting. I'm thinking my multimeter might be acting weird it is in fact supposed to be 389

 

[Alup]

Checking the resistors Ian mentioned in the past for another member having same problems. Just checked resistor r82 and it is only ohming at .471. It is supposed to be an 820 ohm resistor. So I might have found the problem with the vertical issue. Whoops. Edit. Nevermind. The manual says it's an 820 ohm resistor but on the part it says 390. Weird thing is I get .389 on the 2k setting and .470 on the ohm/continuity setting and nothing on the 200 setting. I'm thinking my multimeter might be acting weird it is in fact supposed to be 389

You should get yourself a decent auto ranging multimeter. Some of the newer Fluke models are pretty cheap nowdays or pickup a used Fluke 87V on ebay.

That Resistor seems to be within spec if the color bars on it equal 390 ohm.

This is the multimeter I carried in my truck for onsite work for quite a while. Its pretty decent. I now have several fluke 87V's and love them. They are a bit pricey though, even second hand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EX0AE4

 

[curtislv426]

You should get yourself a decent auto ranging multimeter. Some of the newer Fluke models are pretty cheap nowdays or pickup a used Fluke 87V on ebay.

That Resistor seems to be within spec if the color bars on it equal 390 ohm.

This is the multimeter I carried in my truck for onsite work for quite a while. Its pretty decent. I now have several fluke 87V's and love them. They are a bit pricey though, even second hand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EX0AE4

Ok. So I got the correct cap in after some trial and error. Was even able to adjust my width coil for some fine tuning. Those plastic tools I bought from Amazon are absolute trash. The plastic gives and then rounds off. Useless.... I ended up using a metal Allen key. I found the exact fit. I had been using the wrong size previously. Doh!
I still need to back it off a little bit. Some graphics were getting cut off during gameplay. Those 4 resistors checked out good that Ian mentioned in a previous thread. And I didn't have any of the same value resistors for those 2 you mentioned to swap out with. I have an extra IC 1, 2, and 3. Do ya think I should replace IC 3. I've read from earlier posts that can cause vertical issues. I really wanna get that vertical to go down. The pot is maxed out . I'm almost done with this monitor. What else should I try?

 

[Alup]

Is there a position pot on the game PCB by chance?

 

[curtislv426]

Is there a position pot on the game PCB by chance?

No. It's a cps2 game? Should I shotgun any of the ic's at it?

 

[Alup]

I mean you can try. or... You can mess with the rings. They are a pain in the but you are not that far off your mark you could use them to re-position the picture.

I have had a couple of times where the pot for the vertical position was bad. once replaced it allowed me to adjust it correctly. If I remember correctly that pot is on the remote board. You have any other K7000's that have the remote board you could swap out for this one to try that?

 

[curtislv426]

I mean you can try. or... You can mess with the rings. They are a pain in the but you are not that far off your mark you could use them to re-position the picture.

I have had a couple of times where the pot for the vertical position was bad. once replaced it allowed me to adjust it correctly. If I remember correctly that pot is on the remote board. You have any other K7000's that have the remote board you could swap out for this one to try that?

Yes. I have already swapped remote boards with another and it didn't help me any.

 

[curtislv426]

I think maybe I will swap ic3 with a new part. Ive read where that can help with vertical issues. I will see if that helps me any. If not I'll switch it back and throw that hantarex polo tube back on it and see if it is any closer to the bottom of the screen since I've worked on the chassis.