K6100 with serious meteorite impact

Area69

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So I managed to get a recent pickup Space Duel playing blind today, and can now turn my attention to the K6100.

It has Tempest burn, so I'm guessing someone swapped it out decades ago, in an effort to get Tempest back out on the floor.

The post from this hole is melted into the previously adjoined red connector.

Started thinking maybe just clean up the board and fit new connectors, but thought I'd ask here.

I've fitted the odd LV6100 doohicky on these before, but it's been ages now, so not quite sure how this is all going to play out.






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Nice! Thats good news! The underside doesn't look all that bad, I feel like the solder was melted but the board is still kinda good.
 
(I'm just commenting on the burned components, you may need further debugging than just adding a LV module)
Yes, most certainly.

Checking out the LV6100 on ArcadePartsandRepair.com but could someone point out the male and female connectors I'm going to need.
Perhaps once or twice I've had a smallish grasp of the naming and specs of these things but I'm really slipping these days.
 
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Install an LV6100, which will require removing all of the parts in that lower corner anyway. Get the one from APAR, not Arcadeshop, as the LV6100 design is better than the LV2000.

Also, just replace that one burned header. You don't need to replace all of the others, keep those original. But you do want to remove all of the old solder on the other headers, re-seat the headers so they are flush with the board, then reflow them with fresh quality solder. Get yourself some Kester 44 or Kester 245 no-clean.

Also replace D602 and D702. And make sure R607 and 707 under the big power resistors are not burned. (In addition to all other resistors, check them manually). And replace C800-803 with 1uF 50V+ caps. You can use electrolytics, but I've been using these ceramic ones instead, which are smaller and should last even longer:

 
Will do.

I placed an order for the LV6100 tonite, and what I believe are the correct header and Molex from APAR.

Checking my stash of goodies, I have both a cap kit from APAR and another from ArcadeShop with a lot more parts. I think both have been on my shelf from years ago.

As a refresher I read through your K6100 startup guide. Then when I got home I tested those frame mounted transistors. I was surprised to find they all tested good, even the one at the other end of the melted bits.
 
Cool.

Yeah, most people would have gone out and just blindly replaced all of them, throwing $30 of good transistors in the trash.

That said, it never hurts to have a couple of spares on hand.
 
During the week I replaced the caps and any suspect parts on the deflection board, and the stuff Andrewb recommended with what I had on hand.

Today I found the time to assemble the LV6100 and get it installed.

The only part I found completely dead was the 3W resistor at R106 I think. it was the 22 Ohm blue resistor top left in the photo.

I replaced the resistors I had in the kit, on the HV board, and replaced the 25k pot as well.

Going by the startup guide, I spent about an hour checking and double-checking the LV6100 before I realized the sun was shining too bright into the garage to see that the LEDs were actually lit. I went through the steps one by one, and everything just kinda worked as it should. I have the same HV probe that was recommended on here ages ago, and was able to dial the HV up to just over 19k.

For that burned pin, I had ordered the 7 position .156 KK Molex and trifurcon pins, also the breakaway .156 header pins
Replacing all that went smoothly.

Space Duel is now fully operational, and looking good.
Even had the back door sheet and full set of manuals.

This cabinet came to me really cheap, and appeared to not have been touched in maybe 30 years or longer.
It proves to me that good projects are still out there to be had.

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Nice work.

One tip: When adjusting the HV on 6100's, it's best to set it somewhere around 18.5-18.8kV when the game is cold. It should drift up about 0.5kV once the monitor fully warms up, which can take up to an hour. This is normal. And that will leave a few tenths of a kV or so of margin below the target 19.5kV.

With HV, it's best to be slightly too low rather than too high, and leave some headroom in case it drifts up further over time. And it'll stress everything a bit less. For most monitors, the HV will work over a range of a few kV, so it isn't critical to have it at exactly 19.5kV. But you don't want to be too high, as eventually you can run into X-ray risks, if it ever were to drift up closer to 25kV+. So aiming to keep it slightly on the low side is better.
 
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