K6100 chassis burned hole

Zinfer

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Well, trying to get a monitor for my Star Wars project. Have not been able to come up with an Amplifone although I've been scouting for one. I did however come across a WG K6100 which I thought would fit the bill at least until perhaps I could track down an Amplifone. But it would get the project started.
Now, I found both 5amp fuses blown, replaced and then it popped one of my new ones. After looking the monitor over a little closer my heart sank.
I don't know how on earth I'm going to repair this. All the way clean through where R100 should be.
I didn't do this - I bought it this way, not realizing it.
IMG_0977.jpg
 
So this is typical for R100 to do this kind of damage? I'm surprised all feedback is that this is pretty common.
I must admit I've never actually run a repair or cap kit on a K6100. I was about to just pull the chassis board but I figured, I'd better wait at least to take a picture as there are so many wires connecting to all areas of the board. I was thinking of removing the entire monitor as I think the cap kit also encompasses the HV.
Is a cap kit fairly simple on a K6100 and do you just take out the chassis or remove the entire monitor?
What causes R100 to light up like this? I can only imagine all the smoke that must have been pouring out of this thing.
 
K6100 cap kits are pretty straight forward and no more challenging than a G07 or K4900.

Just take your time and enjoy the experience. If you haven't researched for other repair tips while you are doing the cap kit (like solder joints), I recommend you do so.

Post if you need assistance.

Scott C.
 
Install a LV200 and forget about it.. Rebuild the HV section. My theory is that a failing HV will take out R100 every time.
If his WG K6100 is an original 6100 and does not have any factory or factory authorized field "upgrades" (stilts), then I agree with that. However, some of those upgrades make the LV2000 unnecessary (IE. K6101 and K6102).

Scott C.
 
Well apparently I'm going to need to read up on these K6100 field upgrades. When I bought it in a Space Duel cabinet, I found that the chassis wasn't even screwed down on the plastic legs. Both of the 3A fuses were blown. And then when I smelled the scent of something out of order (smelled like hair burning?), I found this hole and a very hot ceramic resistor. I think I'm going to have to remove the monitor entirely to see what's going on in every facet of it. Just have to find a good place to put it up off the floor in kicking range.
I've done that before with a G07 and busted the neck. Never want that experience again especially on a vector.
I was considering the Bob Roberts Deluxe K6100 repair kit to start with. A pack of R100 15 ohm 1/2w and a pack of R102 330 Ohm 1/4w resistors. Total bill of $49.00.
I guess I need to read this WG K6100 faq for these field repairs??
The game plays blind so if anyone's interested in a Space Duel let me know. I'll either sell it outright or maybe convert it to a gravitar. The only reason the game was non-working is a blown R29 resistor on the AR2-04 board. Prolly could use a cap kit on that. They look original.
 
Post of pics of the HV, deflection and neck board. That will tell us real quick which version you have and if you have any field upgrades.

The WG 6100 FAQ is a must read and will likely provide some feedback on the various factory and field upgrades discussed.

Scott C.
 
Frankly, I've never liked the stilted field upgrade. I pull them from just about half of the monitors I work on and install lv2000 or equivalents instead. usually, the LV section is totally dorked up from so many previous repairs that it is a lot easier to put an LV 2000 in instead of trying to repair so many messed up traces and pads.
 
Well I pulled the monitor. I was not expecting to find what I did behind that dark glass. Is this monitor screwed now? I can't believe how many scratches there are on this tube. I tried some novus but it wouldn't take any of it off. Is there something else I can try to remove the scratches? Also, check out the phosphor. I've never seen phosphor gone like this and I don't know if this is the felling blow or not for this monitor.
But anyhow, here are the pics.
IMG_0988.jpg

IMG_0987.jpg

IMG_0990.jpg

IMG_0984.jpg

IMG_0982.jpg
 
Well color me surprised then. I kept waiting for someone to say it's toast. Isn't there some kind of X-ray leakage if some of the phosphor is missing?
I think the pictures show that this is all original and probably has never been touched by anyone. At least at initial glance it looks that way. Going to wait for the cap kit before tearing into it for memory sake.
I've never looked into these LV2000 upgrades before. Not sure it's even necessary. But I need to read I guess.
 
Yeah, it's dirty, but there should be no problem fixing it. I've seen much worse.

No problem with the missing phosphor areas, other than that the image won't be so good in those little spots.

In a case like this, I'd pull the deflection and HV boards, and wash them thoroughly, then rebuild with new caps, check all transistors and large resistors, replacing as necessary. Fix any burned traces. Personally, I've never used an LV2000, I usually just wire in a pair of fixed voltage regulators (7824/7924) if the low voltage section is burned up. You can make a little daughter board with a couple of caps, diodes and voltage regulators and wire it in, or just cut and mod traces on the board to allow you to do the same thing. The LV2000 has to be adjusted, and it's not necessary. The monitor works fine on +/- 24 volts.

-Ian
 
Retrohacker has excellent advice. If you aren't electronically savvy (which I am not) then an LV2000 lite is your quickest and easiest fix for the LV section. By the time you build the section he is talking about, you could easily have installed an lv2000 for just a little more money. Please realize (and this is for everyone that works on one of these monitors), the LV2000 is NOT a panacea for every problem. This just fixes a problematic area of these monitors that are prone to fail. I have recently fixed several monitors without putting a LV 2000 in and instead upgraded the transistors in the area and replaced all the bad parts. One monitor has come back already due to an installation error on the user's part but it did take out a lot of parts. With the lifetime warranty on the LV2000, you really can't go wrong.
 
I'll add my non-tech suggestion of putting the chassis and tube back into the cabinet where it can be stored safely while you sort out the boards. Also, give the front of the CRT a very thorough cleaning with glass cleaner or even toothpaste on an old toothbrush and some of the scratches may become less apparent (they can look worse if there's dirt in the scratch) and then polish it with car wax or RAIN-X (doesn't remove them but fills them in a bit to keep out the dirt).
 
Yeah, it's dirty, but there should be no problem fixing it. I've seen much worse.

No problem with the missing phosphor areas, other than that the image won't be so good in those little spots.

In a case like this, I'd pull the deflection and HV boards, and wash them thoroughly, then rebuild with new caps, check all transistors and large resistors, replacing as necessary. Fix any burned traces. Personally, I've never used an LV2000, I usually just wire in a pair of fixed voltage regulators (7824/7924) if the low voltage section is burned up. You can make a little daughter board with a couple of caps, diodes and voltage regulators and wire it in, or just cut and mod traces on the board to allow you to do the same thing. The LV2000 has to be adjusted, and it's not necessary. The monitor works fine on +/- 24 volts.

-Ian

Wow, learn something every day :) Cheers
 
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