K4600 Cap Kit Question

Ok, I reflowed the solder. I'll slowly start adjusting the pots later tonight and I'll let you guys know how I make out later, again, thanks for all your help.
 
Not good...I reflowed the solder perfectly, centered the Hor. Hold pot and then adjusted L351 until the picture came in clear...but again, its repeating 3 times. Oh and whilst doing it I managed to electricute myself and have the back panel fall on me from the recoil of my shock. And then when I went to open the coin door I got shocked again, the coin door is now electrified. But anyway those aren't my concerns, I am all kinds of confused on this triple image, I'm on the verge of buying a new chassis.
 
Not good...I reflowed the solder perfectly, centered the Hor. Hold pot and then adjusted L351 until the picture came in clear...but again, its repeating 3 times. Oh and whilst doing it I managed to electricute myself and have the back panel fall on me from the recoil of my shock. And then when I went to open the coin door I got shocked again, the coin door is now electrified. But anyway those aren't my concerns, I am all kinds of confused on this triple image, I'm on the verge of buying a new chassis.

ROTFLMAO!

The triple image is caused by having L351 out of adjustment. Life is simple Brother, consider the L351 as the coarse adjustment, and the H Hold as the fine adjustment.

Center the H Hold.
Adjust L351 until you get a semi-decent picture
Fine tune it with the H Hold.
 
That's what I've been doing, which is why I'm so confused. I got a nice looking triple image from adjusting L351. When I adjust the H Hold it just goes out, doesn't even look like its trying to create a single image, I'll try once more tonight quick but I don't think it will work.
 
ROTFLMAO!

The triple image is caused by having L351 out of adjustment. Life is simple Brother, consider the L351 as the coarse adjustment, and the H Hold as the fine adjustment.

Center the H Hold.
Adjust L351 until you get a semi-decent picture
Fine tune it with the H Hold.

I agree, it sounds like L31 and the H Hold but it could be possible their's a problem with the plug in card. It could also be the sync signal from the game board. Do you have another game close by that you could either swap the monitor input wires and see if it's the monitor or board.
 
The only other ones I have right now are two Space Encounters games which have yet to be worked on so I don't know if either the games or the monitors work plus they're black and white so that wouldn't work anyway. So no, I don't have any other ones to test with :-\ I have maybe an eighth of an inch of play in the H hold knob where the game is actually visible before it turns to static. Within that eighth inch there is a consistant triple image and adjusting it will only move the image up and down, rather all three images up and down. I'll post a video if need be but I just tried again and still same thing.
 
Turn L351 in until it stops (several turns) then back it out roughly 2-3 turns and try it again.

Try what Dokert says. Turn it in clockwise then back it out counter clockwise.
If that doesn't work unplug the 3 pin sync connector and see if the pins are corroded, clean and replace. Also check the pins on the plug in board and see if the 3 pins have bad solder joints. Check the other end of the monitor wire where it plugs into the game board. Make sure theirs a good connection their too. It sounds like your monitor is not getting the sync signal.
 
Ok as I turn it inward the screen starts getting purple and the whining noise gets louder and louder. I noticed that I can adjust it to various spots and then use the H hold knob to fine tune it but every time it ends up tripled, at one spot I got it down to 2.5 times but never the correct image...yet. Is that purple bad?
 
Ok here's what happened when I started all the way in:

All the way in, the screen turned purple, I adjusted the "Screen" knob until the purple turned black. I adjusted the H Hold pot and got a single image but the top half was on the bottom and the bottom half was on top with some major streching in between. I adjusted the L351 a bit outward and the image moved down slightly. I did it a bit more and lost the image. At that point I adjusted the H Hold and nothing happened. I backed out L351 A bit more until a slight image came in. Adjusted the H Hold and the triple image was back. So it looks like the only spot I get a single image is with the L351 ALL the way in and at that point its stretched and distorted.
 
It's beginning to look like theirs a problem with either the monitor or the game board and the only way I know to find out which is the problem would be to try another monitor on the game or try another game board on the monitor. If you had a monitor signal generator and it wouldn't sync to that then you would know it's the monitor and if it did sync with the signal generator then you would know the game board had a problem.
If you had a JAMMA game board and a JAMMA harness and a Switcher power supply you could build a test rig to test the monitor. Just use the video out of the JAMMA board as a test signal. Do you have any collectors in your area that can help out. Maybe they can test the monitor or board. It never hurts to ask around.
Check this link out.
http://homearcade.org/BBBB/jig.html
 

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In my last 4600, L351 was old and crusty and didn't turn smoothly. It would often 'jump' the point where sync would have occurred. Be persistent.. it took me 4 or 5 very slow complete sweeps from full clockwise to full counter-clockwise before I found the one position that produced a good image.

If you don't have a plastic adjustment tool, you can wrap your screwdriver in electrical tape to prevent getting shocked again. :001_ssuprised:
 
Figured after I checked the first response to this thread that it would be fine, but now that there are a million responses, I figured to check again.

Here's what I would do next:

1) Make sure that you reflowed the solder to the pins that the X/Y card plugs into, as well as the sockets for those pins on the card.

2) if you have another 4600 lying around, try swapping in another X/Y card to see if the problem changes.

3) On your 3-pin sync connector, try shifting it down so that only one sync wire is connected to the very bottom pin. Then try adjusting it to see if that helps. If not, put it back to the way you have it now.

4) The cap kit instructions mention replacing R360. Did you? This resistor is tied directly to L351 and could be causing your problem.

5) You mentioned that you didn't replace ALL the caps because they weren't in the kit. Were any of these on the X/Y card? If so, you should find those values and replace them.

6) And I have had sync problems with X/Y cards that were due to a bad diode or transistor. If all else fails, you should test every one...
 
Ok you guys are probably getting sick of helping me with this one but I'm making some progress...look at the photo. If I adjust L351 all the way in, and adjust the H Hold all the way in I get this image. Finally a single image! However its not centered. If I had a little more play in L351 I might be able to get it...does that sound right? Any way I can replace L351?
 

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Not good...I reflowed the solder perfectly, centered the Hor. Hold pot and then adjusted L351 until the picture came in clear...but again, its repeating 3 times. Oh and whilst doing it I managed to electricute myself and have the back panel fall on me from the recoil of my shock. And then when I went to open the coin door I got shocked again, the coin door is now electrified. But anyway those aren't my concerns, I am all kinds of confused on this triple image, I'm on the verge of buying a new chassis.

You and I could be long lost brothers except when I get shocked I end up having the back door miss me and take out the neckboard, yoke, or the whole damn thing.

And keep posting. I guarantee once this gets resolved it will/already has helped someone else.
I'm down to only 3 non-working monitors because of long troubleshooting posts.
 
Ok did a little more searching on my board...R360 is showing 47.7 Ohms where as the manual states it should be a 27 Ohm resistor...what's the cause of that and is that my problem? I've also noted a couple other "concerns" in the photo.
 

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