K4600 Cap Kit Question

anubisdeath6

New member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
440
Reaction score
0
Location
Warrensburg, Missouri
I just got my K4600 Cap Kit in the mail but there were no instructions with it!?! Does anyone have a copy of the instruction set (Which caps go where) for the K4600? Thanks!
 
Ok so I recapped my monitor and it didn't do a thing! I'm about to throw this thing out the window can someone please advise me what to do? The image on the screen is showing up 3 times from top to bottom and the left edge is warped, I thought a cap kit would fix it but nope.
 

Attachments

  • 0501001444.jpg
    0501001444.jpg
    83.8 KB · Views: 78
  • 0501001444a.jpg
    0501001444a.jpg
    83.9 KB · Views: 62
  • 0501001444b.jpg
    0501001444b.jpg
    85.7 KB · Views: 56
Ok so I recapped my monitor and it didn't do a thing! I'm about to throw this thing out the window can someone please advise me what to do? The image on the screen is showing up 3 times from top to bottom and the left edge is warped, I thought a cap kit would fix it but nope.


If it is any consolation, I had this on 2 of my 4600 class monitors. I finally got it straightened out. If I recall correctly, I had to replace a pot on one of the daughter cards, as this is an adjustment settings problem and the pot would not adjust far enough. Did your cap kit come with a pot and did you use it?


Good luck,
Saltbreez
 
What game is that, Lock N Chase?
Is this the original monitor that was in the game and did it work before or is it new to the game?
Looks like maybe a sync problem. Are you sure the sync wires are hooked up correct?
When you installed the cap's did you also re flow the solder on all the header pins where all the boards plug in?
 
No the cap kit only came with 20 caps, 18 were used, two weren't, and 3 weren't replaced because the kit didn't come with them. The In/Out card has two caps and a pot (I believe the pot is for the brightness?) And the other daughter card is the adjustment one but I've twisted and turned all the pots on there and nothing happened, Neither the vertical nor horizontal hold affected it.


And, Yes it is Lock n Chase, yes it's the original monitor. It was doing this when I bought it, actually it was a bit worse, after adjusting it, I was able to get the image to show like it is in the photos. I didn't reflow the solder, do you really think that could be the problem? And I have it wired the way I found it, and it looked like no one had ever messed with it before so I'm assuming it's correct.
 
Try adjusting the Horizontal Oscillator coil, L351 on the Vert/Horiz PC board. It's on the plug in board on the right looking from the back and is a square metal case with a hole in the top that uses a flat screwdriver slot. In order to turn it wile the monitor is on you will need a long non metallic flat blade type screw driver which has to pass though a hole in the metal frame that has the HOT transistor mounted on it or you could pull the board and turn the coil a little at a time. Bob Roberts sells a tool that works great but you can make one out of a wood or plastic dowel.
adjtool.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 4600L351adjust.jpg
    4600L351adjust.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 61
Awesome, I'll give it a try! But on a depressing note, I just went out to try that and now the monitor won't even get any power, the game is still powering up and playing but the monitor won't turn on...it just was not 10 minutes ago. This is turning out to be more troublesome than I had originally anticipated. Thanks for that tip, once I get this thing powered on again I'll try it but in the mean time, I don't know why the power just stopped :-\
 
Awesome, I'll give it a try! But on a depressing note, I just went out to try that and now the monitor won't even get any power, the game is still powering up and playing but the monitor won't turn on...it just was not 10 minutes ago. This is turning out to be more troublesome than I had originally anticipated. Thanks for that tip, once I get this thing powered on again I'll try it but in the mean time, I don't know why the power just stopped :-\

That sucks
Check to see if the fuse blew. Did you check the B+ voltage after the cap kit install? It should be around 127 VDC, If your fuse did blow, their soldered in and a pain to change, just use a 2.5 amp circuit breaker with wires and alligator clips wile testing the monitor. After you get it going you can solder in a new fuse. If the fuse is blown check your HOT and voltage regulator for a short. And yes it could be a bad solder joint around the pins anywhere on the chassis.
 
What is the B+ Voltage? Sorry I'm kind of new to monitors. I put my multimeter on one end of the fuse and the other end grounded and I'm showing 52 VDC. Is that what it should be?
 
What is the B+ Voltage? Sorry I'm kind of new to monitors. I put my multimeter on one end of the fuse and the other end grounded and I'm showing 52 VDC. Is that what it should be?

B+ voltage is the DC regulated voltage from the monitors low voltage power supply that powers all the electronics on the monitor boards. On the K4600 it should be around 127-128 volts DC. You measure it with a DC voltmeter. Look at the picture below for test points. Put the red positive test lead on the top of the big white resistor, the one with the blue wire and the negative test lead on the metal on the voltage regulator frame. You should get around 127-128 volts DC.
Your Fuse on the monitor board is a 3 amp and that's 125 volts AC. You can test it for AC voltage or un plug and test with an OHM meter. If it has the yellowed plastic cover still on the fuse you can take an xacto knife and cut it off so you can see if the fuse is blown.
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 4600B+testpoints.jpg
    4600B+testpoints.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 69
  • k4600%20flowchart.jpg
    k4600%20flowchart.jpg
    104.2 KB · Views: 55
Last edited:
BobsterD, Thanks for the link, I'll definatly be trying that once I get the monitor running again...

SaminVA, I checked the B+ and it's spot on, 127.2 VDC...so I guess I'm back to square one? There's still no image whatsoever showing up on the screen. Any other suggestions? Does it seem like a power issue or something else?

In the meantime I'll take a look at that flow chart and test everything on there.
 
BobsterD, Thanks for the link, I'll definatly be trying that once I get the monitor running again...

SaminVA, I checked the B+ and it's spot on, 127.2 VDC...so I guess I'm back to square one? There's still no image whatsoever showing up on the screen. Any other suggestions? Does it seem like a power issue or something else?

In the meantime I'll take a look at that flow chart and test everything on there.

B+ looks good so that also means your fuse was good or you would have no B+. Do you have neck glow in the tube ? Make sure the neck board is pushed all the way in place. Also wiggle the 2 plug in cards and make sure all connectors are plugged all the way in. Do you hear any hum/ Hi voltage or deflection chatter?
Did you turn the black level control VR 202, the one on the left plug in board that should have been in the cap kit? if it's turned down to far the picture will be black, up to hi and it will be all white.
 
I never got that in my cap kit, but on the plus side I GOT POWERRRRR...I feel stupid admitting it but it was the screen knob on the neck board, I must have bumped it when I put the monitor back in the cab. Anyway, I'm back to my original problem, the trippled image. I tried adjusting the small red adjustment pot but that didn't help. It seems that just makes it so you can center the small white hold knob. The image shows up fine just there's three of them one on top of the other. And the left side had a major curl to it.
 
Ok, lets assume someone might have transplanted this monitor in this game and it has never worked in this game. I looked at the Lock N Chase manual and it should have 2 plunges going to the left plug in card. What dose your plug look like and what wires go to what pins? A picture would be nice.
In the picture below shows my Frogger monitor hooked up to my RGB signal generator which is positive sync so the 2 sync wires are hooked to pins 5 & 6. but yours might need to be on pins 2 & 3 on the 3 pin header right below the 6 pin header. You can try it both ways to see which one works.
Here's how it should be wired top to bottom, top is pin 1
Pin 1 - Red
Pin 2 - Green
Pin 3 - Blue
Pin 4 - black-video ground
Pin 5 - orange - Horz + sync
Pin 6 - white - Vert + sync

Pin 1 - No connection - same as pin 4
Pin 2 - orange - Horz - sync
Pin 3 - white - Vert -sync

Sometimes you only have one sync wire which is composite sync, in that case you may have to run a jumper so both H & V pins connect to the one sync wire.
Hope that makes sense.
Maybe someone with a Lock N Chase can chime in and let you know the correct way to hook it up but one of these should work.
 

Attachments

  • FroggerMonGenRGB 015.jpg
    FroggerMonGenRGB 015.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 28
  • FroggerMonGenRGB 008.jpg
    FroggerMonGenRGB 008.jpg
    84.9 KB · Views: 23
Last edited:
Sorry about the low quality of the photos, I had to use the cell phone because my camera's battery is dead right now, I can repost them in a higher quality if needed.
 

Attachments

  • 0501002140.jpg
    0501002140.jpg
    86 KB · Views: 30
  • 0501002140a.jpg
    0501002140a.jpg
    82.2 KB · Views: 25
Try adjusting the Horizontal Oscillator coil, L351 on the Vert/Horiz PC board.

+1

I had exactly the same problem on my K4600 - three images repeated down the screen. It was solved by reflowing the solder on the L351 pins, then centering the H-hold pot and very slowly turning L351 until I got a good picture.
 
+1

I had exactly the same problem on my K4600 - three images repeated down the screen. It was solved by reflowing the solder on the L351 pins, then centering the H-hold pot and very slowly turning L351 until I got a good picture.

I agree, looks like your wires are correct so should be either an adjustment problem or bad solder connections on the board pins.
If non of that works I can only think of one more possibility. The 4600 has several different plug in cards. if someone replaced those cards and got the wrong combination they may not work. I don't know how you could tell. Maybe Ken Layton or someone else could chime in on that one.
 
Back
Top Bottom