just got a Defender but not working...

asbjones

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Hello, I just got this Defender stand up, you turn it on but no sound or monitor, I found one broken fuse down on the bottom board, there was a "ground" wire around the inside of the coin box that was torn too, I put a new fuse in and reconnected the wire but still nothin, anyone got a suggestion where to start checkin? thanks guys!
 
Welcome..

When you power it on, do you see any "neck glow" at the bottom of the monitor tube in the back? If it's getting power, you will see a little bit of orange light in the bottom of the tube glass where it connects to the small neck board.

Also, do you have a multimeter?
 
Maybe you can buy a JROK Defender pcb but I don't know where to buy this Jamma Board. Put an extra button for Inviso and you can play both Defender and Stargate.

I'd diagnose your problems by swapping out the pcbs with working ones but you don't have that.

Or you can send all your pcb's to Yellowdog and he might fix them.

I fixed 2 Stargate Main pcbs and a sound card but I never fixed stuff for other people.

I'm gonna get an ebay Defender pcb that I might have to fix because it's "untested."

When I started up my Defender with a bad sound card it had no startup sounds.
 
Hello, I just got this Defender stand up, you turn it on but no sound or monitor, I found one broken fuse down on the bottom board, there was a "ground" wire around the inside of the coin box that was torn too, I put a new fuse in and reconnected the wire but still nothin, anyone got a suggestion where to start checkin? thanks guys!

There is a switch under the control panel on the left side, make sure that is on, and make sure all your interlock switches are on.

The power supply should also have 3 LED lights, if those don't light up, then you have a power supply problem. If they are on, then you'll need to check your voltages to make sure they are correct.

You should also look for burnt connectors where the power supply plugs into the boards.
 
Maybe you can buy a JROK Defender pcb but I don't know where to buy this Jamma Board.

JROK doesn't sell a Defender pcb.

JROK does however sell a Williams Multi.


Swapping out boards willy nilly, is NOT troubleshooting. It is simply swapping out boards, and very little can be learned from doing it.

If you have no power to anything...
1. Check the on/off switch
2. Check the safety interlocks
3. Check the fuses
4. Check the power supply
 
thanks guys, let me check a few things and get back to you, I do have a multi-meter and do use it quite frequently...
 
just found 2 more bad fuses, ones a 4v 250 and the other a 7v 250, theres a little spring thing inside the fuse, do I need an exact physical match to this?
 
just found 2 more bad fuses, ones a 4v 250 and the other a 7v 250, theres a little spring thing inside the fuse, do I need an exact physical match to this?

You are a little confused my friend. Here is what you need.
F1 1a slo-blo
F2 5a slo-blo
F3 4a slo-blo
F4 7a slo-blo
F5 7a slo-blo

Radio Shack still carries all of them locally.
 
if it's just a straight wire then it's a fast blow fuse, not a slow blow. a fast blow will pop as soon as a current too big for it hits it; a slow blow can take some extra current for a short while before it goes. each has a specific purpose and you should generally never use one instead of the other.
 
They also have the fuses at Home Depot, and they are called "Time Delay" instead of "Slow Blo" but are the same thing.

I like going there over the Shack because at HD I don't have to give them my home address, favorite color, and the last movie I saw in a theatre. :(
 
When debugging a "dead" machine, I always start with the power. Defenders have a fairly simple power setup.
1) Power on the hot line of the AC plug goes into a 3A sloblow fules and then into the line filter (small aluminum box on the power brick). The AC return line from the AC plug goes to the other lead on the line filter.
2) From the line filter, the AC leads go to a MOLEX connector which is attached to AC harness.
3) From the connector the AC power goes to the safety interlock switch (the white switch mounted about half way up the back of the cabinet). If the interlock switch is not pushed in by the back door (or pulled out) there will be no power to the game.
4) From the interlock the AC hot line goes to the power switch (normally found on the front of the cabinet under the left side of part that sticks out).
5) From the power switch the AC line returns to the Molex connector and from there goes to the primary windings of the transformer.

If everything is working correctly, you should have the following voltages on the secondary lugs:

9 & 10 = 120VAC
15 & 16 = 11.3VAC
17 & 16 = 11.3VAC
15 & 17 = 22.6VAC
11 & 12 = 20VAC
13 & 14 = 11.5VAC

These voltages can be measured at the connector to the power supply board:
Pin 1 (Black wire) to Pin 5 (green wire) = 11.3VAC
Pin 3 (Grey/green wire) to pin 5 (green wire) = 11.3VAC
Pin 8 (Grey/Yellow) to Pin 9 (Grey/White) = 20VAC
Pin 11 (Violet/Yellow) to Pin 12 (Orange) = 11.5 VAC

Once you have these voltages, check the fuses on the power supply board. THey should be:
F1 = 7A SloBlow
F2 = 7A SloBlow
F3 = 4A SloBlow
F4 = 1A SloBlow
F5 = 5A SloBlow

Meter each of these fuses and replace as necessary.

When you plug the connector from the transformer to the power supply board and power it up, you should see 3 LEDs on the power supply board light up. These indicate +5V, -5V and +12V are working. It does not guarantee that they are correct. These need to be measured at the output connector of the power supply.

Attach the black lead of your voltmeter to pin 7,8,9,10,or 11 of the output header. This is ground for the DC voltages.

Pin 1 = -5V
Pin 3 = +12V
Pin 4 = -12V (unregulated may be higher or lower)
Pin 5 = +12V (unregulated may be higher or lower)
Pin 6 = +12V (unregulated may be higher or lower)
Pin 12 = +5V
Pin 13 = +5V
Pin 14 = +5V
Pin 15 = +5V

If you are not seeing the correct AC voltages on the input side of the power supply board, then you need to find out why.

If you are not seeing the LEDs light up and you are not seeing the correct voltages on the output of the power supply, the power supply needs to be rebuilt.

You can't even begin to try and diagnose game board issues if the correct power is not being supplied.

ken
 
got the fuses at RS and dropped em' in now shes runnin!! works perfect!! I had the volume up all the way so when I turned it on so it was like "BBBLLLLOOOOWWWWZZZZZZMMMMMAAARRRGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
I was like YEAAA!! Had it running most of the evening cause I had some freinds over so we were taking turns playin...California Extreme is comin up so I gotta sharpen up my skills!!
thanks for all the input you guys! Thanks!
 
A fuse?

Every time I buy a game, I end up having to memorize the schematics before I get it working. One of these days, I'll fix one by replacing a fuse... someday...

Whining aside, Congrats on getting a fantastic game back from the dead!
 
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