Just got 2 "working" WG 25K5191 monitors - U5000 chassis, so what do I do?

Teknotoyz

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Just got 2 "working" WG 25K5191 monitors - U5000 chassis, so what do I do?

I picked up a twin Sega Super GT which came with 2 WG 25K5191 monitors.
Both monitors work with poor picture quality, but I'm sure will do better with some adjustments. Both use the U5000 chassis.
I've been reading up on a lot of good information by everyone.

So, what I understand (I think) is that the U5000 is not a super reliable chassis.
Ken Layton has posted information on the three upgrade kits available.

My plan is to first get the machine back up and running so I can see if adjustments will yield a good picture.

But given the available "upgrade" kits, what should I do?
How do I tell if the monitor has had the kits installed already?
Basically what should I do to make these as reliable as possible?

You always hear "If it ain't broken, don't fix it" but I'd rather do the preventative work if it's wise to do so.
 
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Yep. I often see them already updated. And they work just fine after a full cap kit, and solder reflow...assuming they work in the beginning...
 
without the updates, apparently some real catastrophic stuff can happen, one of them was for saving the horizontal output transistor from nuclear meltdown. if the HOT goes, you won't have a working monitor at all, so I'm going to go the assumption being mother of all fudgeups and say that one's installed...

your definition of poor picture quality is a little vague. worst I can see that's cap-related is you got jailbars or something. the pair of U5000s I've worked on also had this weird ghosting in the middle of the screen that went away after I capped them. but in all likelihood, you're probably looking at the same shit that I did, and that's bad tubes. I suppose you'll find that out when you reach that crossroads. cap them first, and look over the whole chassis with a fine tooth comb for cold solder. verify that the color drive transistors (they're the 3 transistors with purple-ish heatsinks) all have their solder pads and traces intact... this is a common failure point on this neckboard design as they get burned up and traces lift/break.

if you need any help or pointers feel free to PM me.
 
Thanks guys, sorry about the vague picture quality comment.
It was a quick walk in at Tilt, picked the best pair out of 4 pairs and then haul them.
I noticed all kinds of trash in the cabinets, so shopping them was first priority before power up.
I'll get some pictures posted once I have them running again.

Then the repair log will start if adjustments don't get it.
I have one spare tube, so hopefully yokes match and I have it if needed!
Will look for the upgrades Ken. :)
 
Well, got everything assembled.
One monitor has a great picture once I adjusted it a bit.
The other is dim and is missing blue.
So thoughts:

I'm thinking of pulling both monitors and swapping the chassis to confirm if the dim tube is OK or not.
Then check for the 3 service mods and order kits if needed for both monitors.
Likely install cap kits while I have them out too!

Thoughts? Good plan or not?

90e16461.jpg
 
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Well, swapped Chassis and the dim tube stayed dim.
Sigh..... Not a good sign.
b51c5bbd.jpg

Dammit I know what he's gonna say about my choice of the machines.



My spare tube won't work either, 9 pin vs 10 pin neck.
Any chance buffing the neck pins would possibly help?
They looked crispy, neck plastic was mostly gone.
5fcce16f.jpg


On a more positive note, the "bad" chassis looks much better on the good tube.
Still missing blue, but otherwise bright.
Both chassis have transistors that are loose on the neckboard.
Any ideas on how to mount these if the traces have come loose?

The good chassis looks to have had a meltdown on the choke (will post a pic), someone just put a jumper in it's place.

I may end up buying a parts machine.
Hate parting anything, but a bad tube is a show stopper for me.
 
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make friends with somebody who has a rejuvenator.. cant hurt to try. You could also hunt for tvs that size untill you fone one thats a suitable donor.

to fix traces: scrape back the solder mask of the traces in guestion, then flow a thin layer of solder to the trace( this is called tinning) then use some old cap lead or used desoldering braid, and re-follow the trace with the repair lead and solder it all togther. You will have a fat and repaired trace when youre done. It may not look pretty, but it will work.

as youve learned, the neckboards on those are kinf of a weak point. From time to time chad has them new, sometimes one will pop up on ebay, etc. Im not sure wells gardner sells them anymore.

Its alot cheaper to try to fix what you have, when they work they do produce a pice picture.
 
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Well, I ended up running back and getting another machine for parts. I now have 4 U5000 chassis and at least 2 good tubes. I still need to test 1 tube and will likely keep 3 Super GT seats if the last tube is good. Hopefully I can make enough on 1 seats parts to make this worthwhile. Almost hate selling spares if I have 3, but I'll keep a few things on hand.

I still need to go through and see if I can ID the upgrades. Cap kits and a few neck board transistors are most definite. I'll keep the spare chassis too.
 
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