Just bought a router for my t-molding bit and the bit does not fit?

Thanks so much for all the tips, everybody. I am copying and pasting them each into a text document for when I actually do this. I really appreciate it.

Just out of curiosity, what do you all use your router for when not putting t-molding in arcade cabinets? :)
 
Thanks so much for all the tips, everybody. I am copying and pasting them each into a text document for when I actually do this. I really appreciate it.

Just out of curiosity, what do you all use your router for when not putting t-molding in arcade cabinets? :)

Trimming laminate on arcade cabinets. Cutting reproduction panels for arcade cabinets. It's a handy tool to have in this hobby.
 
Trimming laminate on arcade cabinets. Cutting reproduction panels for arcade cabinets. It's a handy tool to have in this hobby.

ah to be honest there isn't much room in my home for another cab, so I might really have no use for this thing when I am done for this small spot on my TMNT cab. Knowing me I'll try to figure out uses for it like cutting off locks I lost the keys for :D
 
Do NOT get creative with experimental uses for a router. They are powerful tools and will send you to the emergency room very quickly, they are not toys. Be sure to wear safety glasses and hearing protection when operating one.
 
I finally had time today to try out the router. I tested first on a piece of wood the same thickness as the cabinet's wood to make sure it was centered perfectly and everything, and it was.

I did the entire back of the cabinet (I see a lot of people add t-molding to the back of the cabinet; I am guessing to hold down the artwork better) and it came out perfect!

Except when I got to the replacement wood... . For whatever reason, when I got to the little bit of wood I replaced on the bottom, the cut came out terrible.

For whatever reason, the cut came out WAY thicker there. The t-molding is too loose in the slot and comes right out.

I am guessing this has to do with the fact that the original cabinet is a fairly hard wood, and this replacement MDF is a bit....softer?

Are there any tips to get around this? I filled up the cut with Elmer's Wood Filler. Should I also apply some wood hardener or something?
 
I finally had time today to try out the router. I tested first on a piece of wood the same thickness as the cabinet's wood to make sure it was centered perfectly and everything, and it was.

I did the entire back of the cabinet (I see a lot of people add t-molding to the back of the cabinet; I am guessing to hold down the artwork better) and it came out perfect!

Except when I got to the replacement wood... . For whatever reason, when I got to the little bit of wood I replaced on the bottom, the cut came out terrible.

For whatever reason, the cut came out WAY thicker there. The t-molding is too loose in the slot and comes right out.

I am guessing this has to do with the fact that the original cabinet is a fairly hard wood, and this replacement MDF is a bit....softer?

Are there any tips to get around this? I filled up the cut with Elmer's Wood Filler. Should I also apply some wood hardener or something?

No, MDF should cut like butter, but a wider cut shouldn't have anything to do with it being MDF vs particle board vs plywood vs solid wood. Is it possible that the router base wasn't stable and wasn't perfectly flat against the surface?
 
No, MDF should cut like butter, but a wider cut shouldn't have anything to do with it being MDF vs particle board vs plywood vs solid wood. Is it possible that the router base wasn't stable and wasn't perfectly flat against the surface?

I suppose so but if that was the case, why did the rest of the entire back come out perfect?
 
I finally had time today to try out the router. I tested first on a piece of wood the same thickness as the cabinet's wood to make sure it was centered perfectly and everything, and it was.

I did the entire back of the cabinet (I see a lot of people add t-molding to the back of the cabinet; I am guessing to hold down the artwork better) and it came out perfect!

Except when I got to the replacement wood... . For whatever reason, when I got to the little bit of wood I replaced on the bottom, the cut came out terrible.

For whatever reason, the cut came out WAY thicker there. The t-molding is too loose in the slot and comes right out.

I am guessing this has to do with the fact that the original cabinet is a fairly hard wood, and this replacement MDF is a bit....softer?

Are there any tips to get around this? I filled up the cut with Elmer's Wood Filler. Should I also apply some wood hardener or something?

I've never tried repairing something like this with wood filler but that could work. Usually I use bondo, let it dry a few hours and then cut it again.

Sometimes the cabinet side which the router is resting on is not very flat. The edge, especially near an area that was replaced, may be swollen slightly. Since the router base follows that edge, the router will tip and the cut will be wider and slightly off center.

Look along the side of the cab and see if you can see any waviness in the wood near the repair. If so, you can either sand down the problem edge to make it match the rest of the cab or re-adjust the depth of the bit for that one section of the cut.
 
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Just out of curiosity, what do you all use your router for when not putting t-molding in arcade cabinets? :)

I bought my router mostly for the T-Molding install on my first cabinet, back in 2009. When I built my next cabinet though in 2016 (also a TMNT cabinet coincidentally, though mine is half sized and built from scratch), it was practically my most-used tool.

The most-used bits were the flush trim bits and pattern bits. These have a bearing on the middle or end of them.

39b02cf3-cbf6-4205-8ddf-c982a5d21210_300.jpg


I used this to cut out the second side of the cabinet (after the first one was done.) More importantly, I used it to make sides straight (by clamping a known good straight piece of wood to the part I'm working on.) Had to do this since I cut my boards using a handheld circular saw. I don't have a table saw for straight cuts.

(I mentioned there are ones with bearings in the middle and some with them at the end. I recommend getting both, so you can use whichever works best for each operation.)

The "normal" bits also got some use too. By setting the depth, you can trim away some of the wood, without cutting all the way through. Great for making recesses for joysticks from the bottom of the panel. Also, they're great for making cutouts for speakers and such.

I know my examples are more for a scratch build, and you're doing a restore, but that's just some examples. Perhaps you can find other uses around the house? I think it worked great for my cabinet:

index.php


(Yes, the cabinet uses a CRT monitor and JAMMA board, not MAME).

(Link to my project build over on BYOAC)
 
Just buy another router that excepts the 1/2 shank. I have 5 seperate routers with 5 different bits when I build cabinets. Saves a ton of time not having to change bits:)

Based on the amazing quality of the stuff Markrl puts out it obvious the he has "the disease" ... But 5 separate routers?? That just takes the knob "straight to 11" :)
 
Thanks so much to everybody for their replies. What an awesome, awesome community.

Was it on the corner? that's easy to get a lil wobbly on.

It was right near the corner; maybe 3 or so inches from it. So not really on the corner, but close to it.

I've never tried repairing something like this with wood filler but that could work. Usually I use bondo, let it dry a few hours and then cut it again.

Sometimes the cabinet side which the router is resting on is not very flat. The edge, especially near an area that was replaced, may be swollen slightly. Since the router base follows that edge, the router will tip and the cut will be wider and slightly off center.

Look along the side of the cab and see if you can see any waviness in the wood near the repair. If so, you can either sand down the problem edge to make it match the rest of the cab or re-adjust the depth of the bit for that one section of the cut.

Thanks for the tips! I will use Bondo next time (which I do actually have).

You would be correct that the MDF isn't absolutely perfect in terms of matching the rest of the cabinet. I got it as close as I thought would be possible, but even with the wood filler hiding the slight gap between the two, the mdf is slightly "lower" (as in, pushed closer towards the coin door) on both sides. As for sanding, are you saying I should sand down the original cabinet so that it matches closer? The only thing that worries me is doing it too much. Also, is this going to be noticeable when I apply the artwork?


I bought my router mostly for the T-Molding install on my first cabinet, back in 2009. When I built my next cabinet though in 2016 (also a TMNT cabinet coincidentally, though mine is half sized and built from scratch), it was practically my most-used tool.

The most-used bits were the flush trim bits and pattern bits. These have a bearing on the middle or end of them.

39b02cf3-cbf6-4205-8ddf-c982a5d21210_300.jpg


I used this to cut out the second side of the cabinet (after the first one was done.) More importantly, I used it to make sides straight (by clamping a known good straight piece of wood to the part I'm working on.) Had to do this since I cut my boards using a handheld circular saw. I don't have a table saw for straight cuts.

(I mentioned there are ones with bearings in the middle and some with them at the end. I recommend getting both, so you can use whichever works best for each operation.)

The "normal" bits also got some use too. By setting the depth, you can trim away some of the wood, without cutting all the way through. Great for making recesses for joysticks from the bottom of the panel. Also, they're great for making cutouts for speakers and such.

I know my examples are more for a scratch build, and you're doing a restore, but that's just some examples. Perhaps you can find other uses around the house? I think it worked great for my cabinet:

index.php


(Yes, the cabinet uses a CRT monitor and JAMMA board, not MAME).

(Link to my project build over on BYOAC)

Wow, that is an absolutely incredible build! Props for using a real CRT. My TMNT will be using a CRT as well (a brand new WG K7400). That is such an awesome job you did!

You just me thinking that I could also use the router to carve out the spot for the metal mounting plate for my 3" Happ trackball. I need to recess the wood a bit. What kind of bit would I use for something like that? Just a regular drill bit?
 
54cb0bcd2e91a_-_router-bits-02-0413-de.jpg


I use these types of bits to make recesses for controls and such. Set the plunge depth of the router, and test it out on a scrap piece of wood before trying it on your real part.
 
54cb0bcd2e91a_-_router-bits-02-0413-de.jpg


These are simply called straight bits or maybe rabbeting bits. Even more dangerous! Only for use with a plunge router.
 
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Interesting. Why would it matter if the router was battery-operated?

Sorry, it doesn't. Typo. You need a plunge router if you are making a depression anywhere in the middle of a piece. If you are only doing rabbets along the edge, or always starting at the edge and moving in I guess you could use a fixed router.
 
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