Just bought a router for my t-molding bit and the bit does not fit?

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Just bought a router for my t-molding bit and the bit does not fit?

I apologize in advance if this is a ridiculous question but it is obvious I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to buying tools.

I bought this bit after seeing it was the exact one someone used for a TMNT restore (which is what I am doing):

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And here is the router I bought: http://www.dewalt.com/products/powe...ariable-speed-compact-router-with-leds/dwp611

The problem is...the bit does not fit!

Now I do try to do as much homework before buying something (especially an expensive tool I will probably use for 20 minutes my entire life) but nothing on the box or on the website indicated that it only takes certain bits. I kind of figured router bits would be a bit...standardized? I never had to wonder if a drill bit was going to work on my drill!

So anyway I obviously wasted my time and will have to return this to Lowe's. But what exactly am I going to be looking for there? I don't want one of those huge table routers because this needs to be done by hand on the cabinet itself. Did I buy the wrong bit? What on the back of the packaging of the bit indicates whether or not it is going to be compatible with a particular router?

Sorry if this is a ridiculous question but even reading intricate details about the product gives me no clues!

Thanks in advance! :)
 
You need a 1/4 arbor bit for that router or you need to buy a router that can use up to a 1/2" arbor bit. The spec you look for on the router is the collet size. Yours says 1/4". Buy one that says 1/2" or buy a bit that is 1/4" for the router you currently have

I don't think Lowes sells the bit with a 1/4" arbor. Most of us buy the bit from Tmolding.com
 
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You need a 1/4 arbor bit for that router or you need to buy a router that can use up to a 1/2" arbor bit. The spec you look for on the router is the collet size. Yours says 1/4". Buy one that says 1/2" or buy a bit that is 1/4" for the router you currently have

I don't think Lowes sells the bit with a 1/4" arbor. Most of us buy the bit from Tmolding.com

Thanks for the helpful reply. Sucks that this $20 bit is worthless but oh well!
 
Or sell the bit here and then buy the correct one. might lose a little, but would save you the trouble
 
Yeah unfortunately I bought the bit like 4 months ago. I guess I will just sell it on eBay.

I promise you the DeWalt router has no indication on the packaging about bit sizes! Anyway it's still my fault though; and thanks to all the replies. I ordered the right bit from routerbitworld (it's $18 shipped there; a lot cheaper than anywhere else: Freud part number 63-100 if anyone else needs it).
 
Yeah unfortunately I bought the bit like 4 months ago. I guess I will just sell it on eBay.

I promise you the DeWalt router has no indication on the packaging about bit sizes! Anyway it's still my fault though; and thanks to all the replies. I ordered the right bit from routerbitworld (it's $18 shipped there; a lot cheaper than anywhere else: Freud part number 63-100 if anyone else needs it).

Yes it does. It says 1/4" collet. That means it uses 1/4" arbor bits. It's not their fault you don't know what the terms mean. :)
 
Yes it does. It says 1/4" collet. That means it uses 1/4" arbor bits. It's not their fault you don't know what the terms mean. :)

Oh I will be the first to admit I don't know what it means, but the two are not mutually exclusive! :)

Lowe's has a gigantic shipping label with the address of their distribution center covering half of the box so it is probably under that.

Regardless, it just took me by surprise because I figured these things would be adjustable to take most size bits, not just a solid one. I am spoiled by my cordless DeWalt drill as whatever I buy for it just fits! :)
 
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Many routers have changeable collets so they can take either 1/2" or 1"4" shank bits. I think the 'compact' nature of the one you have means it's meant for smaller spaces and jobs and may be the reason it only takes the smaller diameter bits. It will be fine for cutting T-molding slots since you're not removing a lot of material. Practice first and be careful!
 
i would hang on to it, you may decide to purchase a router with a 1/2" collet in the future - i know i did
 
If you have never used a router before, you need to practice on a piece of scrap-wood before attempting to cut the t-molding slot in your cabinet.

Routers spin at a VERY high RPM and can damage the cabinet, and you, in the blink of an eye. Handle with caution!
 
If you have never used a router before, you need to practice on a piece of scrap-wood before attempting to cut the t-molding slot in your cabinet.

Routers spin at a VERY high RPM and can damage the cabinet, and you, in the blink of an eye. Handle with caution!

Yes and YES ... this...!
 
Just buy another router that excepts the 1/2 shank. I have 5 seperate routers with 5 different bits when I build cabinets. Saves a ton of time not having to change bits:)
 
Thank you all for the helpful replies :)

Luckily it's a very small amount I have to cut. Just for the control panel and about 6 inches of MDF on the bottoms of both sides (where I swapped out some rotted wood). I definitely will practice on other wood first and I will wear safety goggles.

Now to figure out which direction the blade is supposed to spin :D

I ended up just keeping the router I bought and ordered the 1/4" bit instead.
 
Just buy another router that excepts the 1/2 shank. I have 5 seperate routers with 5 different bits when I build cabinets. Saves a ton of time not having to change bits:)

My uncle who used to do a fair amount of woodworking told me you need 3, and I don't remember how he had the 3 set up - probably one in a router table. His table was made by cutting a hole in a part of a door.
 
Just bought a router for my t-molding bit and the bit does not fit?

Watch some videos from woodworking sites. Make sure everything is stable. Start the router when its base is firmly on the piece but with the bit NOT in contact with the edge. Once it's up to speed guide it against the edge being ready to counter the lateral movement. Then move slowly, maintaining pressure down against the base and in against the edge.

The RPMs are so high you may want to practice turning it in and off to get a feel for the torque involved.
 
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Thank you all for the helpful replies :)

Luckily it's a very small amount I have to cut. Just for the control panel and about 6 inches of MDF on the bottoms of both sides (where I swapped out some rotted wood). I definitely will practice on other wood first and I will wear safety goggles.

Now to figure out which direction the blade is supposed to spin :D

I ended up just keeping the router I bought and ordered the 1/4" bit instead.

A router bit, and all saw blades, rotate towards the gullet, aka the empty space in front of the cutting face.

Always move the router, along the item you are routing, so that the rotation of the bit is in the same direction as you are moving the router. Moving the router in the wrong direction will cause the router to kick and burn the cutting surface.
 
I have a router very similar to the one you bought. It's plenty powerful for this job. Just find a bit that fits.

Be careful that you don't rock the top of the router as you move it around the side of the game. If you do, even a little bit, the blade will wind up cutting a slot that is too wide and gets wider as it goes back. You will wind up having to fill it with bondo and try again.

Ask me how I know...
 
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