Just bought a (2nd) DK Cab

NoAffinity

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This came up for sale locally. It was hard to tell in the online posting if it was red or orange. I texted the owner, to learn the part number on the nameplate on the back is TKG2-US-UP. A bit dubious, but even more intrigued, I went and checked it out. Found a 4-board TKG3 (US SET 2) board set within, as well as original buttons and some other aspects of the cabinet that had me interested at the right price. A bit of negotiation later, I now have a red TKG2 to sit next to my blue TKG4.

I'm not sure I fully trust the legitimacy of this cab, although the 4-board set alone made it worth the purchase, for me. I put this out to the community, to help me figure out what I do and don't have.

What I know I have:

-4-board set w/ ladder glitch and C 1981 Nintendo title screen, I find part number TKG3-06-SOU on the sound board, but no part number on the board that it is married to
-TKG2-UP-US steel nameplate on back, serial number 10498
-original buttons, and presumably original joystick
-some parts appear to be re-painted, like the control panel, possibly the sides, but other red parts appear to be un-re-painted, and I can't tell a difference between any of the red parts
-The marquee doesn't have C 1981 Nintendo of America, like my TKG4 cab has
-Flat t-molding - this stuff is brittle some of it on the lower right side chipped off when I was loading it into my truck
-PT-8A transformer
-No key to get into the back:(
-Power supply with apparently 1982 manufacture date
-A marquee that is partially caved, but apparently undamaged, and can't be fixed until I get into the back of the cab
-Fully working coin door and service button
-Missing dust cover on joystick
 

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more pics here
 

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Thank you for confirming, ballytablewiz. Now I'm really excited! Where can I find the part number on the game board set? Just a curiosity at this point.
 
Yup, looks like an original TKG2 game. The PCB stack is not original. It is from a later TKG3 game or a replacement. Each of the 4 boards in the pcb stack should have the model number on it like the sound board. The CPU board model number is probably hidden under the sound board. Check all 4 to verify all are TKG3 boards.
 
Thanks, CamaroMurph. I just picked up some replacement locks for the back door and coin door, since the previous owner didn't have the key. Fortunately, can reach the back door lock nut by removing the bezel and lifting up the small cardboard. I will check the numbers. The previous owner did have, and gave me, an original TKG3 manual, which I presume came with the TKG3 board set when it replaced the *sob* TKG2 board set. I will check numbers when I get inside the cab tomorrow, and report back.

Have had limited time to play with my new toy today, but a quick wipe down of the bezel (in and out) and the monitor (both were absolutely filthy), and I find zero burn-in on the monitor. A quick tweak of the brigthness pot on the remote board, and boom, she's as clear and vibrant as the day she rolled off the production line floor. There's a slight bit of shakiness to the image at warm up, but it either goes away or is imperceptible while playing. I'm sure the video chassis has never been touched, and frankly, I'm good with leaving it as it is, unless some really noticeable issues develop.

I haven't committed to a solid game yet, but threw up 189k this morning.
 
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Well, been up since 5:30 a.m., giving this bad boy a thorough once over.

I removed the lock on the back door, and got busy with the canned air and the shop vac. First, I fished all the random pieces and parts that were bouncing around on the floor of the cab when I transported it. I found the two missing nuts from the joystick, and one missing nut from the CPO bolts. The CPO and joystick assembly are now re-secured as they should be, complete.

I also found a piece to one of the coin mechs. It is apparently missing the "C" shaped collar, or whatever you want to call it, that secures it to the main assembly. Does anyone know what this missing piece is officially called, and where a replacement can be sourced?

I gently pulled the game board out enough to snap the pics of the part numbers. I still can't find a part number on the main board (the one with dips and majority of connections), but I don't want to pull the board set apart, and am not too worried about it. Highly improbable I'll find a TRS main board with hand-labeled TKG2 part number married to TKG3 boards. :p

I then cleaned up the wiring, and did some wire management.

I then dialed in B+ voltage, to 108V. I started noticing a minor graphic "smear" on the right side of the screen yesterday, which I knew to be related to H Hold, and that has been fixed. Lastly, I centered the image and filled up the screen as much as possible.

The locks my wife picked up at Home Depot yesterday won't work, at least not on the back door. So, I'll go back and get the same ones I got for my TKG4 cab and SF cab, so one key can fit all.

After the locks are in and everything is re-secured nicely, back against the wall it goes, and will stay. The last bit of minor restoration I want to do is replacing the front kick guard, or whatever the official name of that lower wood trim is. Anybody have dimensions and plans for fabbing one of those?

I've got pics of these things, but upload isn't working for me currently (I see others are also having the issue).

After this bit of minor preventative maintenance, I'm happy with the condition and overall functionality, as a unrestored survivor from a bygone era. Maybe I'll replace the t-molding some day, but I'm not in a huge hurry on any additional improvements.
 

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Well, I've completed my efforts, and this machine is running and sitting in a condition that I am more than happy with. I fixed the marquee slightly bowed in, and found that it is actually cracked on the right side, because of the angle it had been tweaked in, for God knows how long. Once removing it and re-seating it like it's supposed to be, however, you cannot see the crack. I also fixed the joystick sticking "down", which I discovered was due to a missing microswitch spacer, which was exacerbated by a build up of gunk where the ms lever traverses over the edge of the 4-way restrictor. Cleaning up the gunk mostly cleared up the issue, and I see the replacement spacer is like $.95 or something ridiculously inexpensive, on Mike's Arcade. I'm going to order that, along with a blind spacer, since the original has a good piece missing from it right at the joystick shaft, and I'm going to get one for my blue cab since it doesn't have one.

All in all, I'm overjoyed with this arcade survivor which has the war wounds to prove it, while playing as good as new.
 

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i just got done making the pp-7a cap kit for the power supply for that game if you need and they have exact sized caps and lead spacing as original with the perfect sized filter caps all 100% nichicon 105C and extremely long life and low esr caps.

thats a nice find i almost got one but all i was able to get was the 4 board pcb stack.
 
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