Jurassic Park Restoring.

DarkSide

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Hi.

I had the last few years a Data East Jurassic Park machine standing in the garage in pretty "bad" shape.

Put a question on RGP if i should part it out, or restore it, well the decision was to restore it, and i've got the machine moved inside, and started taking it apart to clean.

As of writing this the project is going ahead, a lot of new parts have been bought, and most of it is on way.

The biggest parts, or should i say most expensive parts missing was a Flipper pcb, DMD, and the DMD Controller, they should be here sometime next week.

But i do have a few problems with the machine, first is none of the flashers work, second is none of the special coils works, all the fuse holders on the PCB's has been changed to new, and correct fuses has been put in, door contact is closed when trying the machine, pop bumpers, slingshots, and a few other coils work perfect.

The coils are checked with my dmm, and found in good shape.

The coils that do not work are in the Bunker, Power Shed, and the coil that kicks the ball up to be fired out, im sorry i don't know the right name for that.

Any suggestions on where to start ?
 
From your description, the coils you describe are not the special coils. Special coils are the slings, and pop bumpers. Since neither the flashers or the constant power coils are working, I would suspect the A/B relay on the PPB. If the relay isn't switching power between the flashers and coils, you'll get nothing.
 
From your description, the coils you describe are not the special coils. Special coils are the slings, and pop bumpers. Since neither the flashers or the constant power coils are working, I would suspect the A/B relay on the PPB. If the relay isn't switching power between the flashers and coils, you'll get nothing.

Now that you say it, im not sure i've heard that relay say anything at all.

The relay on the PSU, and MPU both clicks when turning on the machine.
 
I would use your mulitmeter's lowest setting to measure the resistance of the relay's solenoid windings. According to the schematics, pins J6-7 and J6-9 on the PPB are the inputs to the relay's coil. Pull connector J6 and see if you can read anything between those pins. If you don't get a reading, the relay is shot.
 
I would use your mulitmeter's lowest setting to measure the resistance of the relay's solenoid windings. According to the schematics, pins J6-7 and J6-9 on the PPB are the inputs to the relay's coil. Pull connector J6 and see if you can read anything between those pins. If you don't get a reading, the relay is shot.

Im getting nothing between J6-7 and J6-9, not even directly at the relay, so it looks like its dead.

Edit:

I took the top of the relay and tried activating it by hand, no change, no flash and no coils, so its properly something more than just the relay, rechecked the fuses, and F6 on the power supply was dead, changed it, and it blew the same moment i turned the machine on, pulled the PPB board, and changed the fuse, this time it did not blow, so fault should be found in the PPB board is my guess.

Checked the PPB board and put it back in the machine, as long im not connection J6 the fuse stays intact, looking in the schematics its the 28 volt for the K1 relay on the PPB, does it sound like a shorted out relay since the fuse keeps blowing as soon i connect J6 ?

Connected J6, but removed the two brown wires at J6-1 and J6-2 and the fuse stopped blowing, so relay is good, but something connected to those wires are not.
 
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I see that there is also a diode (D22) between J6-7 and J6-9. If this diode shorted, it could also blow the fuse. Check the diode with your DMM. Also, the coil in the relay could have burned and shorted, which would cause a fuse to blow. However if this was the case you'd read basically 0 ohms when you tested between relay's contacts for the coil.
 
I see that there is also a diode (D22) between J6-7 and J6-9. If this diode shorted, it could also blow the fuse. Check the diode with your DMM. Also, the coil in the relay could have burned and shorted, which would cause a fuse to blow. However if this was the case you'd read basically 0 ohms when you tested between relay's contacts for the coil.


Diode was fine, it was the knocker coil blowing the fuse, started by disconnecting all the coils on the playfield connected to the brown wire, fuse was still blowing, took a look on the schematics and saw the knocker coil was also connected, removed the brown wire from that, and fuse is still intact, will have to resolder all those other coils back, but i think the knocker coil is shorted, or the diode on it is bad.
 
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Good news is flashers and coils are working perfect, bad news is R7 on the PPB board got very very hot, has to figure out what that controls, and why it got so hot after only 5 minuttes of running.
 
Knocker coil was good, but the diode was shorted out, problem is now when turning on the machine coil is locked on, so something else is broken, faults just keep coming in :)
 
The schematics have transistor Q46 on the CPU board assigned twice on page 48, but I pretty sure the transistor for the knocker is Q48 at Pin 9 of CN11 on the CPU board. Follow it back and see for sure. Then check the transistor with your DMM to see if it is shorted. You may as well replace the predriving transistor Q31 while you are at it.
 
The schematics have transistor Q46 on the CPU board assigned twice on page 48, but I pretty sure the transistor for the knocker is Q48 at Pin 9 of CN11 on the CPU board. Follow it back and see for sure. Then check the transistor with your DMM to see if it is shorted. You may as well replace the predriving transistor Q31 while you are at it.

Its Q46, Q48 is a totally different type of transistor.

Q46 checks out good, same with the predriver, as for know the knocker coil is just disconnected, would like to get everything else fixed first.

Got the T-Rex working, and its now eating the balls as it should and moves from side to side, its still needs a bit of adjusting, but im getting there.
 
Its Q46, Q48 is a totally different type of transistor.

Serves me right for not actually looking at my machine. I assumed that two Q46s was a typo for Q48 and it isn't. My machine doesn't match the schematics from the PPB to the CPU. Without me pulling wires and verifying that mine is the same as yours, I think you've got the correct parts figured out. Sorry for muddying the waters by trying to depend on the schematics. :)

Have you checked for a short along the way from the knocker to the PPB?
 
Serves me right for not actually looking at my machine. I assumed that two Q46s was a typo for Q48 and it isn't. My machine doesn't match the schematics from the PPB to the CPU. Without me pulling wires and verifying that mine is the same as yours, I think you've got the correct parts figured out. Sorry for muddying the waters by trying to depend on the schematics. :)

Have you checked for a short along the way from the knocker to the PPB?


No worry, schematics can be a pain, last project was a Playmatic machine, the schematics for that was a mess.

Will check the wires later, its just a bit fun that the only coil not working is the knocker.

Any ideas on why R8 on the PPB board is getting so hot, im not sure that can be right.
 
Stangbat, Can i ask you for a favor ?

Turn on the Jurassic Park machine you got, take a game, and tell me if R8 on the PPB board is getting HOT, mine is around 84 degrees celsius.

Game is working fine, all the flashers, coils, that resistor just gets extremely hot in a short period of time.
 
No, it and the other resistors are just a few degrees above ambient when in attract mode for about 5 minutes. Measured with an IR thermometer.
 
No, it and the other resistors are just a few degrees above ambient when in attract mode for about 5 minutes. Measured with an IR thermometer.

It first happens on mine when the game is playing, in attract its pretty cold.
 
Played a couple games, took a reading and they are all still just a few degrees above ambient.
 
That machine is starting to cost me a lot of money, been out shopping today and got a new set of legs, and some mixed nuts and bolts that was missing.

Only things missing now is a sound board and a new piece of glas for the backbox.

Regarding that with the R8 getting hot, i can see there is used different versions of the PPB board in the Jurassic park machines, the pdf manual ive got says 520-5021-05, but the orginal paperback manual says 520-5021-00, the board in mine is a 520-5021-00, so i guess one of the first versions.
 
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