Junknet.net site dead?

And also here.
 

Attachments

  • 40E04943-A726-4137-ACA8-AEEDA9C47E86.jpg
    40E04943-A726-4137-ACA8-AEEDA9C47E86.jpg
    278.8 KB · Views: 24
  • 1F03B4D6-8936-4EAB-96C0-AE8F1AE89D59.jpg
    1F03B4D6-8936-4EAB-96C0-AE8F1AE89D59.jpg
    225.8 KB · Views: 10
  • F48DA9E7-6CA0-4171-8847-05D51B9DFAC9.jpg
    F48DA9E7-6CA0-4171-8847-05D51B9DFAC9.jpg
    226.6 KB · Views: 8
  • 6C22925A-AB36-4A84-A864-30F344FFF5A2.jpg
    6C22925A-AB36-4A84-A864-30F344FFF5A2.jpg
    261.9 KB · Views: 9
  • 3553DA75-29CE-4722-9256-14F7C1AD63D4.jpg
    3553DA75-29CE-4722-9256-14F7C1AD63D4.jpg
    240.5 KB · Views: 12
he said he is updating it and it will be up and working very soon.
 
No need to use that site. Waste of time.

Listen up, here's the deal with tube swaps:

1. IF the tube is the correct size, and
2. IF the tube is the correct deflection angle, and
3. IF the tube has the same neckboard pinout, and
4. IF the tube has compatible electrical specs (heater voltage, etc)

Then, it MIGHT work as a donor tube.

Some notes:

  • ALWAYS use the OEM yoke with the chassis. The television may contain a yoke that looks promising. Why bother? Unless your yoke is damaged beyond repair, you should re-use it.
  • If the TV has a bonded yoke, you're pretty much hosed. Good luck removing a bonded yoke; it's real fun.
  • The mounting ears on the implosion strap should be oriented so that the ears are on the "neck-side" of the tube, not the "tube-face" side of the tube. If the ears are mounted forward instead of back, you'll potentially run into fit and finish problems when you try and mount the tube into the monitor frame and/or the arcade cabinet. Spacers and bolts can take care of this issue, however, so it's not a huge concern.
  • Even if you manage to achieve what appears to be a near-perfect match in all respects to the list above, sometimes you just won't be able to get a tube to work with a given monitor chassis. There are/were simply too many CRT gun assemblies built by too many fly-by-night companies in China back in the day, and unless the tube was "certified" by the OEM to work with a given chassis prior to fitting a chassis and yoke to it, there's no way to guarantee it'll work. Sometimes you'll get geometry issues you just can't fix Sometimes you'll get focus issues you can't adjust out. Sometimes the tube will just flash and pop, and that's it; dead. Sometimes you'll get lines/waves/colors/dots/imperfections that no amount of convergence or crt alignment strips will fix. These issues are not as prevalent as some may make you think. In a great majority of cases, as long as you are swapping in a known good tube that matches the neck pinout and heater voltage, you'll probably get an acceptable image.
 
No need to use that site. Waste of time.

Listen up, here's the deal with tube swaps:

1. IF the tube is the correct size, and
2. IF the tube is the correct deflection angle, and
3. IF the tube has the same neckboard pinout, and
4. IF the tube has compatible electrical specs (heater voltage, etc)

Then, it MIGHT work as a donor tube.

Some notes:

  • ALWAYS use the OEM yoke with the chassis. The television may contain a yoke that looks promising. Why bother? Unless your yoke is damaged beyond repair, you should re-use it.
  • If the TV has a bonded yoke, you're pretty much hosed. Good luck removing a bonded yoke; it's real fun.
  • The mounting ears on the implosion strap should be oriented so that the ears are on the "neck-side" of the tube, not the "tube-face" side of the tube. If the ears are mounted forward instead of back, you'll potentially run into fit and finish problems when you try and mount the tube into the monitor frame and/or the arcade cabinet. Spacers and bolts can take care of this issue, however, so it's not a huge concern.
  • Even if you manage to achieve what appears to be a near-perfect match in all respects to the list above, sometimes you just won't be able to get a tube to work with a given monitor chassis. There are/were simply too many CRT gun assemblies built by too many fly-by-night companies in China back in the day, and unless the tube was "certified" by the OEM to work with a given chassis prior to fitting a chassis and yoke to it, there's no way to guarantee it'll work. Sometimes you'll get geometry issues you just can't fix Sometimes you'll get focus issues you can't adjust out. Sometimes the tube will just flash and pop, and that's it; dead. Sometimes you'll get lines/waves/colors/dots/imperfections that no amount of convergence or crt alignment strips will fix. These issues are not as prevalent as some may make you think. In a great majority of cases, as long as you are swapping in a known good tube that matches the neck pinout and heater voltage, you'll probably get an acceptable image.


Do you have another source for yoke ohm info regarding all theae chassis?
 
Do you have another source for yoke ohm info regarding all theae chassis?

Don't ohm yokes. Resistance is not a reliable measure to determine whether or not a yoke will work with a chassis.

Furthermore, don't use TV yokes. See my post above. Use the OEM yoke that came with the chassis.
 
Back
Top Bottom