JROK- Qbert FPGA

Does the same thing in my jrok williams multi machine. After further inspection of the board, I noticed a dark spot on one of the IC's. I took a high res pic with my phone, so I could blow it up and look closer. I think I may have found the problem spot. These pins are right in the area of the left joystick pin on the jrok.

Whats funny is how small these IC's are. The pick makes those legs look so far apart. I used my MM and still couldn't find a short, but maybe the IC took a hit during the solder process during manufacturing.
 

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Does the same thing in my jrok williams multi machine. After further inspection of the board, I noticed a dark spot on one of the IC's. I took a high res pic with my phone, so I could blow it up and look closer. I think I may have found the problem spot. These pins are right in the area of the left joystick pin on the jrok.

That's not a manufacturing error.

That comes from a board being plugged the wrong way around into a non-keyed JAMMA connetor and the +12v ( or +40v ) from the knocker on JAMMA pin "counter 2" or the +12v from the "coin Counter 1" being connected to the player 1 right / player 2 right JAMMA pins. Which pretty much literally blows the top off the input protection IC.

- James
 
Okay. That very well could be the case. The board was given to me by a friend in a bundle to install in his Mad Planets cab. I didn't pull it from the original packaging, so I have no idea of it's life before I touched it. I built a custom jamma switching power supply panel like all my other jrok rigs. No doubt my installation orientation was correct. Fired right up first try. Then I started pulling my hair out when the controls didn't work. Must have spent at least an hour testing for shorts....

Thanks for the heads up James.
 
good design if you ask me, super easy part to replace, would suck to blue out the fpga.

a qsop 28 is pretty easy to swap out to a skilled tech.
 
Does the same thing in my jrok williams multi machine. After further inspection of the board, I noticed a dark spot on one of the IC's. I took a high res pic with my phone, so I could blow it up and look closer. I think I may have found the problem spot. These pins are right in the area of the left joystick pin on the jrok.

Whats funny is how small these IC's are. The pick makes those legs look so far apart. I used my MM and still couldn't find a short, but maybe the IC took a hit during the solder process during manufacturing.

That chip has had the magic smoke let out. Nice!
 
Sorry if this was addressed somewhere else, I did search and I did read the manual...still not clear to me.

I'm putting together a candy cab panel for a friend and it will have a spinner, an angled joystick and a flightstick with a fire button.

He's mostly interested in just playing qbert and mad planets.

Does the flightsitck for mad planets get wired to player 1 or player 2 controls?
 
I would think both controls go to player 1 as they are both one at a time player games
 
Hadn't played for a couple weeks, boots to mellow yellow qbert and no menu screen. Will only start a mellow yellow game and joystick doesn't work. Huh? Anybody had this happen and what is the fix?
 
Hadn't played for a couple weeks, boots to mellow yellow qbert and no menu screen. Will only start a mellow yellow game and joystick doesn't work. Huh? Anybody had this happen and what is the fix?

Boot it while the service switch down, or if it's enabled holding 1P & 2P start down when booting. That'll get you to the start menu.

Go into settings and make sure the "boot to" is set to menu. Also try the switch test menu option and make sure you're seeing all the joystick inputs.
 
Boot it while the service switch down, or if it's enabled holding 1P & 2P start down when booting. That'll get you to the start menu.

Go into settings and make sure the "boot to" is set to menu. Also try the switch test menu option and make sure you're seeing all the joystick inputs.
Thank you. Will do when I get time.
 
That worked! I think maybe my kids were button smashing on this thing when I wasn't around. It was booting to mello yello qbert and they had the joystick changed. Uggg. Thanks. Figured it was an easy fix.
 
Ok, I'm currently building my Qbert machine. I did order parts but now I need the connector for the Coin counter #2 for the knocker. Anyone know where I can get the pins for the jamma harness to attach the knocker?
Also, game ROMS. Is there anywhere to get the MYLALL.BIN file with all the ROMS installed? Thanks.
 
Ok, I'm currently building my Qbert machine. I did order parts but now I need the connector for the Coin counter #2 for the knocker. Anyone know where I can get the pins for the jamma harness to attach the knocker?
Also, game ROMS. Is there anywhere to get the MYLALL.BIN file with all the ROMS installed? Thanks.

They typically come with the roms, but from my understanding, you can drop the rom files on a usb and load them in that way.

Ver 2 with vga, right?
 
No. No VGA on my board. And no power supply connector for the plug. Can someone confirm I connect the 5 volts DC to pin C or D and the ground from the power supply to A or B? Or connect ground to pin a or b at the opposite end?

And, how to get a pin connector for slot H to connect the knocker? Where can I buy these from?

Thanks.
 
got the pin connectors. Ok, this board runs on 5 volts only correct? So I can use pin A, B, C, & D to power it right? Add a pin to the H slot for the knocker on the top part of the connector and I should be good to go right? I don't want to connect this and only to find out I fried the board. Can someone confirm this for me please?
 
got the pin connectors. Ok, this board runs on 5 volts only correct? So I can use pin A, B, C, & D to power it right? Add a pin to the H slot for the knocker on the top part of the connector and I should be good to go right? I don't want to connect this and only to find out I fried the board. Can someone confirm this for me please?

Here is the manual, page 6 has the knocker hook up settings:

http://www.jrok.com/msf/manual/msf_manual_rev_01.pdf
 
got the pin connectors. Ok, this board runs on 5 volts only correct? So I can use pin A, B, C, & D to power it right? Add a pin to the H slot for the knocker on the top part of the connector and I should be good to go right? I don't want to connect this and only to find out I fried the board. Can someone confirm this for me please?

So to answer, no. You have to pull 12 or 30 volts from the PS, it needs to be fused, and you connect the knocker to the coin counter 2 on the board, aka "H"

do not take voltage from the board to power the knocker and make sure you have a diode present on the knocker.

I might have misunderstood what you meant about powering the board, but it is a standard jamma pinout.
 
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