jrOk Board, Button Mapping Issue

This thread is giving me a headache. Just fix this shit already! It's not that hard. This tripped me up for about 10 minutes. We are now on 300 hours of this. Come on, phet!

I believe... The Multi-Williams setup is supposed to mimic the Clay Mutli-Williams board. The standard setup is for a standard JAMMA setup. Which, is what you should use.
 
This thread is giving me a headache. Just fix this shit already! It's not that hard. This tripped me up for about 10 minutes. We are now on 300 hours of this. Come on, phet!

I believe... The Multi-Williams setup is supposed to mimic the Clay Mutli-Williams board. The standard setup is for a standard JAMMA setup. Which, is what you should use.

Since the last post in this thread, I haven't messed with this machine/problem til today. It's not like I have been fucking with this non-stop since I started this thread. I have a life to deal with too. I have had it in both modes, all wire outputs are labeled and in front of me. I currently have it in standard mode. I test all switches and they check out on the switch test screen. I go into game mode, I get no flapping (in either mode) unless I use the #1 buttons on both the player 1 and 2 sides. That's fine for Joust, but it fucks Defender's controls up. I am looking at the jrok pinout at the link I posted, and going by James' own pinout description, 3 and 4 on the player 1 side should work for both player 1 and player 2 flap and they simply don't in my case. Sorry if your Hyperactive, pop rocks-infused mind won't let you focus on any one problem for more than 2 seconds, but I'd rather fix this the right way rather than just throw it together and call it good cuz it *kinda* works.
 
Since the last post in this thread, I haven't messed with this machine/problem til today. It's not like I have been fucking with this non-stop since I started this thread. I have a life to deal with too. I have had it in both modes, all wire outputs are labeled and in front of me. I currently have it in standard mode. I test all switches and they check out on the switch test screen. I go into game mode, I get no flapping (in either mode) unless I use the #1 buttons on both the player 1 and 2 sides. That's fine for Joust, but it fucks Defender's controls up. I am looking at the jrok pinout at the link I posted, and going by James' own pinout description, 3 and 4 on the player 1 side should work for both player 1 and player 2 flap and they simply don't in my case. Sorry if your Hyperactive, pop rocks-infused mind won't let you focus on any one problem for more than 2 seconds, but I'd rather fix this the right way rather than just throw it together and call it good cuz it *kinda* works.


All my games work as intended. There is no compromise. They all work perfect and each button does what you think it will do. I just did a standard JAMMA wiring setup from scratch. It's not voodoo, and it has nothing to do with my ADD. :D
 
so here's a thought, shawn. since everyone's pretty much gone full circle with the suggestions, is there someone local to you with another jrok board you can test? that seems like the next step, and then potentially getting a hold of james to see what he can do.
 
Things to check and do

1. Go into the JAMMA button test mode and see if player 1 button 4 is registering
2. In settings ensure "STANDARD" is the button mapping mode
3. Make sure you're not in cocktail mode.
4. Boot into Joust and go into test mode and see if it can detect the P2 flap in switch test
5. In Joust test mode reset to factory settings just and start the game.

Although.. for #3 I don't think that makes any difference for joust.

- James
 
1. check
2. check
3. check
4. You can go into a separate 'Joust' test mode?
5. I guess you can. I will try to figure out how to get there and let you know what happens.

Thanks James
 
4. You can go into a separate 'Joust' test mode?

Oh yes, boot into Joust and use the JAMMA 'service' switch to step through the game service mode.

The JAMMA test switch is mapped to the Williams AUTO-UP/MANUAL-DOWN
and JAMMA service is mapped to the ADVANCE switch.

- James
 
Yeah, tried it, same thing. Interesting though in MW mode, player 1 button 1 works for flap in Joust AND Reverse in Defender. Isn't that what player 1 button 3 is supposed to do? Too bad the other buttons don't work right in Defender when it's set that way. If I go into standard mode, player 1 button 1 is still flap for Joust, but it becomes fire for Defender. This fucking blows. I was done with this cabinet nearly 2 months ago and still can't play it.
 
In the standard mode this is the button mapping I'm using. Without the 49-way though.
example_control_panel.jpg


The menu button is entirely optional too, I'm using a defender panel.

- James
 
In the standard mode this is the button mapping I'm using. Without the 49-way though.
example_control_panel.jpg


The menu button is entirely optional too, I'm using a defender panel.

- James

James,Phet is saying that on his setup B1 is not mapping for fire button but rather the P1 flap and Reverse.
I think there has to be a board issue if that is what is happening.
The only other thing would be the wrong inputs are being used but Phet rechecked them.
 
James,Phet is saying that on his setup B1 is not mapping for fire button but rather the P1 flap and Reverse.
I think there has to be a board issue if that is what is happening.
The only other thing would be the wrong inputs are being used but Phet rechecked them.


Exactly right on all counts. No idea why, but B1 is doing B3's job. B4 does not work for player 2 flap, making me use player 2 B1, which isn't right for Defender. I suppose I can have two wires going to one button if I have to. Can I use the Defender input header for the Defender controls? Bipass the main harness, leaving it as is for the other games? Suppose I'd need a special mini harness for that and would still have to have more than 1 wire going to several buttons.
 
Exactly right on all counts. No idea why, but B1 is doing B3's job. B4 does not work for player 2 flap, making me use player 2 B1, which isn't right for Defender. I suppose I can have two wires going to one button if I have to.

So.. in Defender, does B1 works as fire, B3 as reverse and B4 as smartbomb ?
You can always also wire Player 2 B1 to the flap 2 button as a last resort.

Get Joust into the test mode and do the button test. See which buttons it's actually seeing.

Can I use the Defender input header for the Defender controls?

Yeah, absolutely. But for other games you still need to add 1 wire for stargate.

- James
 
So.. in Defender, does B1 works as fire, B3 as reverse and B4 as smartbomb ?
You can always also wire Player 2 B1 to the flap 2 button as a last resort.

Get Joust into the test mode and do the button test. See which buttons it's actually seeing.



Yeah, absolutely. But for other games you still need to add 1 wire for stargate.

- James

I will check tonight and report back. I am gonna try both modes, MW and standard. Then I will tell you what each button is doing in each mode.
 
So.. in Defender, does B1 works as fire, B3 as reverse and B4 as smartbomb ?
You can always also wire Player 2 B1 to the flap 2 button as a last resort.

Get Joust into the test mode and do the button test. See which buttons it's actually seeing.



Yeah, absolutely. But for other games you still need to add 1 wire for stargate.

- James

In MW mode, P1B1 is flap for Joust and Reverse for Defender/SG.
In Regular mode, P1B1 is flap for Joust and Fire for Defender/SG.

No matter what mode I am in, P1B1 is flap for Joust and it shouldn't be. P1B3 should be. The problem with this is that in MW mode, there is no fire button for Defender/Stargate. In regular mode, fire is where reverse should be. So either way, there is a problem. Looking at the 6 pin header, it only covers buttons 5 and 6, and those outputs/ buttons aren't the problem. This board needs to be looked at by you to see if it is mapped or programed wrong. Will you be able to test it and see if there is anything you can do if I ship it back? I have tried everything I can, and it isn't mapping correctly. The games all work, the menu seems to work, it's just a mapping issue with Joust.
 
No matter what mode I am in, P1B1 is flap for Joust and it shouldn't be. P1B3 should be.
In regular mode, fire is where reverse should be.

So if I'm reading this correctly...

Button 1 is acting like button 3 and button 3 is acting like button 1

In the button test mode from the setup menu, when you press the Flap/Reverse button.
which button onscreen shows as "ON" and then when you hit the Defender/Stargate Fire which button shows as "ON" ?

- James
 
So if I'm reading this correctly...

Button 1 is acting like button 3 and button 3 is acting like button 1

In the button test mode from the setup menu, when you press the Flap/Reverse button.
which button onscreen shows as "ON" and then when you hit the Defender/Stargate Fire which button shows as "ON" ?

- James

They both show up as the right button in the switch test. When I press button 1, it shows as button 1 in test. When I push button 3, it shows as button 3 in test. When I put it in standard mode, button 1 'flaps' in Joust and 'Fires' in Defender (as it should). Button 3 does nothing in Joust, but in Defender, button 3 is reverse (as it should be). So in standard mode, the button mapping for Defender is correct, but then it's wrong in Joust.
 
They both show up as the right button in the switch test. When I press button 1, it shows as button 1 in test. When I push button 3, it shows as button 3 in test. When I put it in standard mode, button 1 'flaps' in Joust and 'Fires' in Defender (as it should). Button 3 does nothing in Joust, but in Defender, button 3 is reverse (as it should be). So in standard mode, the button mapping for Defender is correct, but then it's wrong in Joust.

What ROM and FPGA revision does it show in the setup screen ?
It's not in cocktail mode is it ?

- James
 
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