Joust Restoration Dujour

Malice95

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Donor 2011
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After completing my Berzerk restoration I have decided to take on
something a bit more ambitious. I have been sitting on an empty
joust cabinet for a while planning to use it for a multiwilliams but
its pretty beat up.. So this should be a challenging restoration.

The front paritcle board has water damage and the plywood sides are all sorts
of messed up. About a foot up is not so bad. I am open to suggestions on
how to proceed with the bottom. Not sure where to begin beside cutting out
the bad wood and trying to replace with good and TONS of bondo. I think
if I cut out all the bad wood on the sides I wont be able to support the base.

Suggestions?

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Nice! Just do me a favor and don't rub it in when you finish this before my MultiWilliams! ;)

I reserve that right:) But I think it will be the other way around.


I dont have a clue what to do with the bottom so its gonna take quite a
while. You are way ahead of me!
 
Been there man. My favorite method for these is to turn them upside down, start pulling back layers of ply and dumping glue. When you feel the amount of glue is sufficient, clamp the shit out of the bottom edges. You're trying to use glue and pressure to get back to a solid foundation. Then you sand and start the bondoing. With that MDF, you'll need to break out the hardener if the glue doesn't solidify the edge. Here's some pics of mine for inspiration:

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Well its always worse then it appears. After picking out all the loose broken bits
and removing the support blocks so I could clamp the sides.. I wasnt left
with very much. The one side was about a 1/2" shorter then the other.
Quite the mess.. So my only option is to rebuild all four sides to get a clean
edge. I built a trough that I can SHOVEL bondo in. I lined it with foil tape
which hopefuly wont stick to the bondo.

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You can also cut the plywood off flush with the bottom of the plywood. Then use 1x3 pine and 1/2" plywood to create a false bottom. Use the 1x3 to match the shape of the sides and then cut the plywood to cover the 1x3s. Glue and nail it all together, then stick it on the bottom of the cabinet with plenty of liquid nails and a few 1" screws from the bottom. Once it is dry, bondo the edges, sand seal and paint. If you do it right, nobody will ever know. Added benefit. the wood will not delaminate like the plywood will.

ken
 
You can also cut the plywood off flush with the bottom of the plywood. Then use 1x3 pine and 1/2" plywood to create a false bottom. Use the 1x3 to match the shape of the sides and then cut the plywood to cover the 1x3s. Glue and nail it all together, then stick it on the bottom of the cabinet with plenty of liquid nails and a few 1" screws from the bottom. Once it is dry, bondo the edges, sand seal and paint. If you do it right, nobody will ever know. Added benefit. the wood will not delaminate like the plywood will.

ken

Ken I think I might go with your suggestion. I dont see this much bondo
working out well.
 
So I went with Ken's idea and cut out all the bad wood down flush with the
original plywood base. I'm now down to solid wood all the way around.
I used a 1x10 as a straight edge guide for the circular saw and screwed it to
the cabinet as I worked my way around. I used the side edge of the cabinet
as a reference point to get a straight edge relative to the other side. Ended
up with less then a 1/16 of a difference after running around the cabinet
so I'm pretty happy.

Next up is to build up the base with 1 by stock to the original height and
reinforce the orginal plywood base.

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So I banged out the base.. wasnt so bad. A little bondo where the old and
new wood come together and you'll never be able to tell the base was
replaced. It is made out of 1 by material cut in 2" strips (which is what I
cut off). The corner blocks are hunks of 2x4 as well as the 45 deg braces
around the interior. I predrilled everything and countersunk the holes,
screwed and glue'd the base and glue'd/stapled the braces in. As soon as
I get my leg leveler kit from bob I'll stand it up.

Next up is sanding the whole thing down to bare wood.

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This is looking great! I bought a Kreg jig off of amazon a couple of years ago. It works pretty slick and would be a great way to join something like this together.
 
This is looking great! I bought a Kreg jig off of amazon a couple of years ago. It works pretty slick and would be a great way to join something like this together.

Ahh yep the pocket hole stuff. Yea those are nice. Makes a nice strong joint.

Looks like I am going to try mixing up some automotive paint to match the
cabinet colors before I sand the whole thing down and start bondoing. I also
need to strip all the metal bits and get them off to a powdercoater.

Anyone use the nifty leaf buttons Groovy Game gear sells? "True Leaf pro"
They have a built in leaf switch. I picked up enough for this MW.. so I'll let
everyone know how they work.
 

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So I ran around tonight picking up the paint. I decided to go with automotive
paints (Lacquer) since thats how it was painted originally. It should give me a
super nice finish, spray easily and have really great color depth.

I tried a couple automotive paint places but they wanted almost $500 to mix
4 color matched quarts. So I went with duplicolor paint shop paints that
autozone and pep boys sells. I will have to mix the colors together and match
the cabinet myself.. but I saved $350.. so thats worth it to me.

I had to hit 3 stores to get all the colors I needed. For some reason "Hugger
Orange" is not a popular color to keep in stock:) (orange + blue makes brown).

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So I ran around tonight picking up the paint. I decided to go with automotive
paints (Lacquer) since thats how it was painted originally. It should give me a
super nice finish, spray easily and have really great color depth.

I tried a couple automotive paint places but they wanted almost $500 to mix
4 color matched quarts. So I went with duplicolor paint shop paints that
autozone and pep boys sells. I will have to mix the colors together and match
the cabinet myself.. but I saved $350.. so thats worth it to me.

I had to hit 3 stores to get all the colors I needed. For some reason "Hugger
Orange" is not a popular color to keep in stock:) (orange + blue makes brown).

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I'm curious why you didn't use the paint codes on pr0k's site? http://www.gamestencils.com/index.php?sc_page=41
 
Those paint codes are for that brand latex paint only.
Latex paint is okay.. oil is generally better, and lacquer is going to look and hold up like the original paint job did.

Got it. Didn't look close enough at the codes. I'm using oil on mine too. I hate working with it, but it's a much better final product.
 
Got it. Didn't look close enough at the codes. I'm using oil on mine too. I hate working with it, but it's a much better final product.

I used Oil on my berzerk and I was really happy with it. I figure this time I'd
try the lacquer. Never worked with it before so it will be interesting.
 
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