Joust restencil

Bitchin! I'm getting ready to stencil a Joust as well. Never done one before, so I'm kinda worried its gonna come out looking like S
 
I think I have an idea for the stencils that will make it a cakewalk and make it look a lot like the original paint.

The original paint had fuzzy edges on 90% of the art. This tells me that the stencil didn't lay perfectly flat on the game. I simulated this effect on my Moon Patrol by using a semi-rigid stencil and attaching it loosely to the game, but I still had sticking on the areas that touched the cabinet. This allowed some overspray and also prevented most of the paint jaggy/lifting problems.

With a rigid stencil raised slightly from the game, you can spray the paint as heavily as you want, and the paint won't attach the game to the stencil. And if the game is on its side (not that it needs to be, when you can do as many coats as you want) you can spray as heavy as you want and there is no chance of runs. You could also do the "remove wet" method if you want, and still go back and add more coats of paint.

I think the modern one-time use stencils are a great way to save time on making the stencil, but I think they lead to the problems mentioned above. I'll be making a set of reusable rigid stencils for this restoration and we'll see if it makes things go smoothly.

Wade
 
Great information, guys. I picked up the stencil from gamestencils.com. Haven't even opened the tube yet because I can picture it becoming a tangled mess. I keep imagining it sticking to itself like a large sheet of saran wrap lol; so I'm waiting until Im absolutely ready to apply it. I'm sure its not too difficult, just an irrational fear of mine :)
 
I will be going this as well in a couple months. I will make sure to refer to this thread for details. So post tons of pics and information.

Who sells the different kinds of Joust stencils? I know gamestencils.com sells the three piece vinyl stencil which will have no overspray.

Are there any other companies that sell different rigid and semi rigid Joust stencils?
 
I'm not aware of anyone who sells or loans out rigid stencils right now. If someone could cut them out of a thicker poster board type of material, that would probably work with some careful spacing of it off of the cabinet side when painting.

Wade
 
I'm about 85% done with my stenciling (gotta do some touch ups :/ ); but after doing it, I thought it would have been better if I had just bought 3 sheets of plywood or mdf; stenciled on to the wood, and then just route out the pattern. Only problem is, what do you do with the rigid stencil after you are done with it?, unless you plan on making another one. I guess you could just sell it or pay it forward.
 
I think I have an idea for the stencils that will make it a cakewalk and make it look a lot like the original paint.

The original paint had fuzzy edges on 90% of the art. This tells me that the stencil didn't lay perfectly flat on the game. I simulated this effect on my Moon Patrol by using a semi-rigid stencil and attaching it loosely to the game, but I still had sticking on the areas that touched the cabinet. This allowed some overspray and also prevented most of the paint jaggy/lifting problems.

With a rigid stencil raised slightly from the game, you can spray the paint as heavily as you want, and the paint won't attach the game to the stencil. And if the game is on its side (not that it needs to be, when you can do as many coats as you want) you can spray as heavy as you want and there is no chance of runs. You could also do the "remove wet" method if you want, and still go back and add more coats of paint.

I think the modern one-time use stencils are a great way to save time on making the stencil, but I think they lead to the problems mentioned above. I'll be making a set of reusable rigid stencils for this restoration and we'll see if it makes things go smoothly.

Wade
Document the process for us! I for one would love to see it.
 
Oh man, well let me just say that I had high hopes for my stencils, but it didn't go well. I'm sure that's part of the reason this project sat dormant for so many years. I had finished one side but was unhappy with the result.

I cut the stencils out of the paper and foam board. It turns out, this wasn't rigid enough, it ended up being wavy. I had lots of problems with the stencils and even with the paint and wood repairs in general.

A couple of months ago, I got a burst of energy and decided to finish the other side and get it over with, even if wasn't a great paint job. Basically, my kids got old enough to make fun of me about it, and I really wanted that space back in my garage for other things.

Pics to come.

Wade
 
Here are some before pics. Some of the condition issues and examples of overspray and factory touchup.

Wade
 

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More before pics, and some where I gave it a wash and dry. No pics of this, but there was some delamination of the front and bottom edges. Nothing too extreme.

Wade
 

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Wow. Heck of a necro bump, but it's at least applicable. FINISH THE GAME! - Sark
 
Almost finished with the paint here. Had the paper and masking tape on the repainted front for so many years, pulling the tape off pulled off black paint. Not a happy day. Had to patch the spots, sand and repaint the front.

Wade
 

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Yes, the front is flat black and not gloss. My Moon Patrol has a flat black front with satin coin doors, and this will sit right next to it, so I decided to make them the same rather than go for more accuracy. :)

Wade
 

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This is a list of what was done:

Cleaning, paint, repairs:
Washed cabinet inside and out
Sealed inside of cabinet with polycrylic
Wood hardener and repairs along the bottom
Repainted entire cabinet
Casters replaced the levelers
Cut new upper back door
Boards, harnesses, and monitor washed
Small metal tumbled
Repaint coin doors (still to do)

New parts:
Speaker replaced (paper was gone)
Monitor bezel glass replaced with reproduction
Added switching power supply (linear still works!)
New T-molding
Control panel overlay, buttons, plastic trim replaced (still to do)
Added NVRAM kit

Wade
 
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I couldn't believe it all worked when I plugged it back up after 8 years. Actually, it had a RAM error when I got it, so I don't know how that fixed itself, but I'm expecting I might have some repairs around the corner.

The monitor looks great. It had fresh caps on it when I got the game. I adjusted it a little and it looks very good. It has the slightest burn visible when it's off and the lighting is perfect, but nothing visible when it's turned on.

Wade
 

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Also, does anyone remember how these are supposed to be placed? I have two of them, and I'm guessing one goes right here, but I don't see how the other one would fit on the same spot on the inside. Since there are marks from a nut, maybe one goes on the inside up behind the coin door, and the other goes down here at the bottom door? I can't find them in any of the pictures I took when disassembling it.

Thanks,
Wade
 

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Just took these. Not sure how helpful they are, but might be a clue. Awkward angle to take photos and wasn't able to pull machine out.

I think you're holding one of the top or bottom brackets in the incorrect place on the side. I presume they were some sort of anti theft protection and kept the lower door from being kicked through?

In order:
  • Lower coin door
  • Side bracket (lock slots in here.)
  • Bottom bracket, backside
  • Top bracket, underside
Note that the upper and lower brackets do not sit flush with the wooden edge of the coin door opening. There's ~1/4" gap when the lip of the metal coin door fits.
 

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