Joust Resotration

[Muel]

Oil on top of latex should be fine. Latex on top of oil probably wouldn't adhere well, unless the surface was very roughed up.

This poster is correct. Oil over latex would work fine - no adhesion problem. Latex over oil there is usually and adhesion problem that could lead to peeling!

Regarding the slow drying Rustoleum - that's normal for Rustoleum products. My experience is longer dry time but best looking finish - levels nicely.

If you are looking for a quick dry product, then Krylon would be better. It leaves a nice finish but if you compare the two side by side, then you will see the difference!

Keep us posted on your Joust restore,

We all love pics!

-Muel

 

[Phetishboy]

I used an HVLP set-up and sprayed mine with Sherwin Williams All-surface Enamel for the base coat then sprayed my stencil coats with Rustoleum oil-based colors out of rattle cans:

 

[CHALLENGER]

I used an HVLP set-up and sprayed mine with Sherwin Williams All-surface Enamel for the base coat then sprayed my stencil coats with Rustoleum oil-based colors out of rattle cans:

I've always liked how your cabs turn out. Can't find a flaw anywhere.

 

[joeycuda]

I used an HVLP set-up and sprayed mine with Sherwin Williams All-surface Enamel for the base coat then sprayed my stencil coats with Rustoleum oil-based colors out of rattle cans:

No kidding..your cabinet makes me want to restencil a Joust and consider getting rid of my cocktail Joust.

 

[Lazerhawk]

Rolling this latex is driving me crazy. Its friggin impossible to get a consistent finish which is really surprising. Im using a foam roller and after the coat is dry theres always some kind of imperfection. So I sand in between coats with 400grit paper and wipe down the side put another coat on and another problem after then next coat. I wouldnt do another one of these without a gun. Its like some areas are more glossy than others. Ive got like 7 coats on each side now probably lol. Im done though its looking good enough I guess.

I got some spray paint colors that arent going to be an exact match. I couldn't find anything that matched the yellow/orange color in the art. It was either straight Orange or Yellow. Ugh again not doing this again without a gun. Hopefully the stencil and art comes tomorrow!

 

[Lazerhawk]

Ok so im not done after all. One side you can clearly see where the roller has been. I just don't understand. Im thinking about getting a brush tomorrow because at least the marks would be more consistent and probably less visible. Maybe I should thin the latex with something?

 

[joeycuda]

Might want to sand it down and spray it

 

[Biltronix]

I got some spray paint colors that arent going to be an exact match. I couldn't find anything that matched the yellow/orange color in the art. It was either straight Orange or Yellow. Ugh again not doing this again without a gun. Hopefully the stencil and art comes tomorrow!

Go to any Home Depot, Lowes, Color Your World, or other professional paint store and they'll mix any color you want. They have conversion charts, color cards, and an electronic color chip sampling machine. If you can find an original piece of paint at least 1/4" square, they can scan it and duplicate it. Most of these stores also sell the small tester cans. If you have a compressor and air gun, this is my reccommendation. This is how I do my own cabs.

BTW, I bought brand new 2-way Williams joysticks with correct color balls from www.arcadeshop.com for $35 each. I put these on my Joust and they look great.

 

[Lazerhawk]

If I had a gun I would have used it. I dont have a compressor and I cant afford to buy one right now either. On top of the paint situation the art came but NO MARQUEE! I think im done for the weekend unless the stencil shows up.....

 

[Lazerhawk]

ok i lied. im going to try some floetrol and a really nice brush.

 

[OldTymeToys]

I've gotten really nice finishes with latex before. I use a 9 inch micro-foam roller. I will get a slight orange peel effect, but not really roller marks. It is kind of an art, I suppose. Next time, roll on oil-based paint- it's much easier to roll and finishes very flat. Or... spray

 

[joeycuda]

As bad as rolling might be working for you, I really think brushing will be a LOT more uneven. I'd try some Floetrol with a foam roller. Too bad if you can't spray right now, but as much trouble as spraying might seem, instead of multiple rolled coats, let dry, sand in between, days of work.. with spraying you can spray a whole side in a minute, let dry 10 or 15min between coats and spray a whole cabinet color in under an 45min. It's just so quick.

 

[Lazerhawk]

I've always wanted a gun but the compressors are huge and expense. I always talk myself out of it cause I figure I wont use much. What kind of setup are you guys using?

 

[kcfreeloader]

I use a turbine HVLP so no compressor is required. Then to paint i use semigloss precatalyzed lacquer (not automotive lacquer.) It's prethined, it's cheep $26 per gallon (and the store can break it to quarts and color them for not much more) and it takes very little time to dry. In fact, it dries nearly instantly.

 

[Lazerhawk]

I didnt know there was a turbine hvlp. Looks cheap and sounds great too! Oh well next time. The Floetrol and the roller produced passable results so im calling it quits on painting. Heres my new control panel.

Just kidding. Looks like someone should have measured a few more times before putting 100 holes into that metal lol. Heres the wood free of goo and also hacked up quite a bit.

I got a piece of 6x24 sheet metal to replace the swiss cheese CP and cut it to size so just need to add some holes, hopefully not as many as who ever made that One question though when your applying the CP art how forgiving is the adhesive if you make a mistake? Is it easy to lift off if you screw up a bit in the beginning?

 

[YellowDog]

Heres the wood free of goo and also hacked up quite a bit.

I got a piece of 6x24 sheet metal to replace the swiss cheese CP and cut it to size so just need to add some holes, hopefully not as many as who ever made that One question though when your applying the CP art how forgiving is the adhesive if you make a mistake? Is it easy to lift off if you screw up a bit in the beginning?

You might want to consider buying a new control panel with a little more wood on it. Just putting a new piece of metal on that will not be enough. The Williams 2 way joysticks are designed to fit into a slot in the wood so they don't wiggle.

Also the wooden top is set up to take t-nuts flush with the top surface of the wood. The overlay goes right over them and the bolts attach from below. If you are going to use top mounted bolts to hold the joysticks down, the bolt heads will stick up on the control panel top and your knuckles will definitely not thank you.

The adhesive on most CPOs is not at all forgiving. It is stick once. The other problem is the polycarbonate laminate on the top does not take much bending without fracturing so trying to pull a CPO off if you make a mistake is almost impossible without messing up the polycarbonate.

When I do a CPO I pull about a 2" piece of the release paper back on the top edge. I line the sides up and press the top to the control panel and then clamp it with 3 or 4 of spring clamps. Then I slowly peel the release paper off a couple inches at a time, pressing it down as I go. Just take your time and don't rush it. Pay particular attention as you go around the corners. If you let the overlay get away from you on the corners, you will end up with sharp edges that will crack.

ken

 

[Lazerhawk]

So I FINALLY got my stencils and I put the first layer on. I followed all the directions very carefully and it laid down on the cab nice and flat etc. I put 3 thin coats on and decided if I let the paint dry completely it might crack so I waited til it was tacky and started pulling it off.

So now for the sad part... I start pulling it off nice and slow and these tiny threads of half dried paint started peeling off and kind of sticking out almost perpendicular to the cab but slowly laying down. I tried to catch those but ended up smudging paint in a different part of the stencil so I let it go and just kept peeling the stencil. So now the lines have laid onto the paint and dried. Im going to mask off the smudge and spray over it but how do I get the little hairs of dried on paint off without taking the latex off or removing the main part of the stencil. I have some acetone, some mineral spirts but im afraid to use them because it makes the semi gloss finish dull. Maybe I could chip it off with an xacto knife? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Malice95]

UUgghh.. that painful. That happened on mine. If you a perfectionist
you might as well stop now and sand off the stencil. When using spray
paint I waited 5 mins tops between coats and removed the stencil the
second I was done putting the last coat on, and I still got some jaggies.

Put up some pics so we can see what youi are dealing with.

 

[Lazerhawk]

Well taking the stencil off made the stencil useless and it took forevvvver to get the first one so I have to repair this somehow. Im at work so Ill try to take some pics later. On a positive note the color, even though its not the as the original, looks good lol

 

[VectorInvadr]

Oh man you are tackeling a beast !!
Stay with it bud grab the ostrich by the wings and fly home with this

I want to see those pics.