Joust Color Problem Continued

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I cold jumped the +5 to the 23 pin on the Decoder ROM to force the cocktail mode and then plugged in the game. The first three pics are the results of this process. I then disconnected the connection between the +5 and the 23 pin the game was the same as before. I went a head and put the last two pics up so everyone can see what the game looked like before and after jumping it into the cocktail mode. Well who can tell me what's wrong with my Joust?

Thanks,

Rich
 

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I cold jumped the +5 to the 23 pin on the Decoder ROM to force the cocktail mode and then plugged in the game. The first three pics are the results of this process. I then disconnected the connection between the +5 and the 23 pin the game was the same as before. I went a head and put the last two pics up so everyone can see what the game looked like before and after jumping it into the cocktail mode. Well who can tell me what's wrong with my Joust?

Thanks,

Rich

Can you show us a pic of the jumper on the decoder rom? Read this thread, and tell me if some of the images you are seeing resemble these: http://www.saltbreez.net/Hflip without the reversal.

Saltbreez
 
I didn't jump it right. I didn't bend the pin and replug the whole decoder ROM back into its socket. I just connected a safety pin (connected to a wire) to the #23 pin when the whole decoder chip (with all of the pins) inserted into its socket. I went ahead and did it the right way just like the picture when they did it to the defender. I took the whole decoder ROM out and then bent the #23 pin. I then re-inserted the decoder ROM back with the #23 bent hanging out. I then made the connection to the #23 pin with a safety pin to the wire which was connected to a +5v source. This time the screen wasn't green like before. The whole Joust picture on the monitor was backwards just like what happened to the Defender. I attached pics.

Thanks,

Rich
 

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I didn't jump it right. I didn't bend the pin and replug the whole decoder ROM back into its socket. I just connected a safety pin (connected to a wire) to the #23 pin when the whole decoder chip (with all of the pins) inserted into its socket. I went ahead and did it the right way just like the picture when they did it to the defender. I took the whole decoder ROM out and then bent the #23 pin. I then re-inserted the decoder ROM back with the #23 bent hanging out. I then made the connection to the #23 pin with a safety pin to the wire which was connected to a +5v source. This time the screen wasn't green like before. The whole Joust picture on the monitor was backwards just like what happened to the Defender. I attached pics.

Thanks,

Rich

Rich,

No... this method addresses a problem that you are not trying to solve... You need to jumper the complete circuit not just the pin 23 i.e. do not lift the pin as show on that page, do it like Greg did here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=86673&highlight=shift+saltbreez&page=2

I was just asking if the screen artifacts looked similar, i.e. did you have a problem with the 74LS257? It is just not possible to tell from the information you have posted [and I might not have the ability to answer that question remotely... other might]

Where are you getting +5V from? pics, Pics, PICS!

Saltbreez
 
Joust Color Problem

The first pic is the decoder ROM with the #23 pin bent which I probably didn't bend it right, but it did work. The second pic (#23 bent on this pic as well) is the setup for the last jump with the +5V using a safety pin and wire which resulted in the flipping of the entire game on screen . The third pic is the source of the +5V which I just used the switching power supply using wire and electrical tape. The fourth pic is how you explained it on your last post. I re-bent the #23 pin back to its original position and placed the wire in the #23 pin slot before resetting the entire decoder ROM. The wire was firmly set and would not come out after pulling on it. I then plugged the game back in. The last pic is what was on the screen. It is a green picture with a bunch of flickering reddish/orange lines. What now?

(*********Summary Review (Tales of a Rookie)*********)
The original problem with the game was the background colors including the cliffs, surround colors, etc. were not right. They were funky distorted. I started a journey into the unknown. A savior (saltbreeze) presented himself and is guiding me through my journey. The first attempt at trying to find out what was wrong with the game was when I jumped the #23 pin with a safety pin and wire attached to the +5V switching power supply while the game was on. I think I also touched the #22 and/or #24 pin at the same time which fried the decoder ROM and this caused a nice spark. Eeeks!!! I wasn't very careful and was doing this by hand with the game on. First mistake!!! I then replaced the decoder ROM with a new one. This resulted in the background colors and surround colors being restored, but all of the characters (buzzard riders, ostrich riders, eggs, numbers, colors, etc.) are now distorted.

I made a second attempt. I used the safety pin again, but this time was much more careful having the game off. I set the safety pin on the #23 pin and attaching it so the connection was stable and not moving and then turned the game back on. This resulted in a green colored screen only. Wrong again!!!

The next try (third time is not a charm) was when I bent the #23 pin and attached the safety pin to it as decribed above as seen in the first two pics provided in this reply. This resulted in the flipping of the images being left to right or you may say right to left. Wrongo!!!!

This last attempt (fourth times the charm we hope) I placed a wire in the #23 pin as stated above seen in the last two pics provided in this reply. This resulted in the same green screen, but with a bunch of reddish/orange flickering lines. I will get it right one of these times. Hey I am new at this and will eventually figure it out. P.S. Thank you saltbreeze for being so patient and helping me.
 

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The first pic is the decoder ROM with the #23 pin bent which I probably didn't bend it right, but it did work. The second pic (#23 bent on this pic as well) is the setup for the last jump with the +5V using a safety pin and wire which resulted in the flipping of the entire game on screen . The third pic is the source of the +5V which I just used the switching power supply using wire and electrical tape. The fourth pic is how you explained it on your last post. I re-bent the #23 pin back to its original position and placed the wire in the #23 pin slot before resetting the entire decoder ROM. The wire was firmly set and would not come out after pulling on it. I then plugged the game back in. The last pic is what was on the screen. It is a green picture with a bunch of flickering reddish/orange lines. What now?

(*********Summary Review (Tales of a Rookie)*********)
The original problem with the game was the background colors including the cliffs, surround colors, etc. were not right. They were funky distorted. I started a journey into the unknown. A savior (saltbreeze) presented himself and is guiding me through my journey. The first attempt at trying to find out what was wrong with the game was when I jumped the #23 pin with a safety pin and wire attached to the +5V switching power supply while the game was on. I think I also touched the #22 and/or #24 pin at the same time which fried the decoder ROM and this caused a nice spark. Eeeks!!! I wasn't very careful and was doing this by hand with the game on. First mistake!!! I then replaced the decoder ROM with a new one. This resulted in the background colors and surround colors being restored, but all of the characters (buzzard riders, ostrich riders, eggs, numbers, colors, etc.) are now distorted.

I made a second attempt. I used the safety pin again, but this time was much more careful having the game off. I set the safety pin on the #23 pin and attaching it so the connection was stable and not moving and then turned the game back on. This resulted in a green colored screen only. Wrong again!!!

The next try (third time is not a charm) was when I bent the #23 pin and attached the safety pin to it as decribed above as seen in the first two pics provided in this reply. This resulted in the flipping of the images being left to right or you may say right to left. Wrongo!!!!

This last attempt (fourth times the charm we hope) I placed a wire in the #23 pin as stated above seen in the last two pics provided in this reply. This resulted in the same green screen, but with a bunch of reddish/orange flickering lines. I will get it right one of these times. Hey I am new at this and will eventually figure it out. P.S. Thank you saltbreeze for being so patient and helping me.

OK, the jumper LOOKS correct, is there any chance that you could get the +5V source off of the board? Look at those long black capacitors above Decoder 4 and the chip next to it: one side is ground, the other side +5V, can you use the +5V side to make this jump with? I'm just trying to eliminate other variables.

So the old decoder ROM was fried? I wonder if in fact you did fry the 257 at the same time, or at least one circuit in it.

I need Jrok, Mike or Sean to comment.

Saltbreez
 
Joust Color Problem

After the last time I posted, I went out and decided to move the wire onto the +5V switching power supply so that it was making a better connection. This is what happened to the screen. The first two pics is what happened the first time. A bunch of discolored lines with a more purple affect. I then did it again by moving the wire and the third pic is what happened next. A bunch of discolored lines with a more black and yellow bumble bee affect. I did it a third time and the screen turned green again the fourth pic. What happened? Should I use a differenet +5V source. If so, can you tell me where?

Thanks,

Rich
 

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After the last time I posted, I went out and decided to move the wire onto the +5V switching power supply so that it was making a better connection. This is what happened to the screen. The first two pics is what happened the first time. A bunch of discolored lines with a more purple affect. I then did it again by moving the wire and the third pic is what happened next. A bunch of discolored lines with a more black and yellow bumble bee affect. I did it a third time and the screen turned green again the fourth pic. What happened? Should I use a differenet +5V source. If so, can you tell me where?

Thanks,

Rich

Rich,

I want you to use the same +5V source that is powering that decoder ROM. I.E. get it off of the PCB itself.

Saltbreez
 
Sorry about the last post. I sent it about the same time you sent yours. Here are a few pics of my board. Is this long chip (pic 4) the one you want me to use? Where do I make the connection?

Thanks,

Rich
 

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Sorry about the last post. I sent it about the same time you sent yours. Here are a few pics of my board. Is this long chip (pic 4) the one you want me to use? Where do I make the connection?

Thanks,

Rich

Look, over top of almost every minor chip is a black capacitor [looks like a diode, but is a capacitor]. Instead of left and right, lets talk about decoder rom 6 side
and decoder rom 4 side
. Side 6 is +5V, side 4 is ground. I want you to use a shielded alligator clip to jumper from the decoder rom 6 side of one of these capacitors for your +5V source.

Saltbreez​
 
I don't have a shielded alligator clip. I will go buy some in the next few days and try this and post the pics. Can you give me a brief list of important tools that you use all of the time when working on boards. I have a few basic tools such as auto digital multimeter, basic radio shack saudering gun, etc, but if I am going to buy some alligator clips, I might as well pick up a few other must have odds and ends.

Thanks,

Rich
 
I don't have a shielded alligator clip. I will go buy some in the next few days and try this and post the pics. Can you give me a brief list of important tools that you use all of the time when working on boards. I have a few basic tools such as auto digital multimeter, basic radio shack saudering gun, etc, but if I am going to buy some alligator clips, I might as well pick up a few other must have odds and ends.

Thanks,

Rich

Rich,

It all depends on how much money you want to spend and how deep you want to go. An assortment of passives [resistors, capacitors and inductors] and semiconductors [diodes and transistors] that are common on these boards is a thought. So is a set of 7400 IC's common to these boards. Pick up some solder wick at the shack and a solderput [red bulb thingy] also pick up a flush cuter in the same section. Ask if they have the wire wrap tool. Go to sears, find where they have the same gear, pick up the 3 tool soldering kit and liquid rosin. Get some 91% alcohol and some cotton pads. Get a fire extinguisher. Do you have a logic probe? Are going to get deep enough to bid on O-Scopes on da bay? Speaking of the bay, start biding low on every Joust/Robotron/Stargate board that goes thru. Try not to win more than 1 out of 10 or 20. Bookmark:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/
http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/
http://www.unicornelectronics.com/
http://www.futurlec.com/
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
http://www.arcadechips.com/
http://www.hobbyroms.com/videogames.html
http://www.arcadeshop.com/

Start looking for 19" TV's people are throwing away. 13" also.

Have fun!

Saltbreez
 
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