Joust Cocktail Wiring - Part 2

KillerKades

Well-known member

Donor 2011
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
323
Location
West Bend, Wisconsin
Haven't got around to rebuilding the power PCB for the cocktail so I have an upright one in for testing. The only non-functioning part with the upright power PCB is the coin door lights and control panel lights.

The cocktail uses 12v to drive the lights -- at least that is the voltage of all the old bulbs, but the upright according to the schematics is 6.3v. Nowhere can I find the schematics for a Joust cocktail to verify.

I did notice this difference between the two power supply boards. I circled the differences. The are located near the bottom of the picture. The cocktail has a resistor in W1 and no ceramic R27. The upright has nothing in W1 and has a ceramic R27.

CocktailModification.jpg


Is this a modification to get the 12v to output for a cocktail?

When testing with a meter, there is no power getting to any of the light sockets, etc. Even is 6.3v were getting there I should have dim lights, but I get nothing. My thinking is that a modification is needed to pump the 12v to the correct pin for the lights.
 
The ps on the left has a zero ohm resistor and will put out 12v, the one on the right has a 3w 10ohm resistor and will only put out 6v.

Show me a pic of connector 4P1 that shows all of the wires. It is the connector coming from the power brick to the ps on the left in your pic. It appears to me that it is missing the wires you need for the coin door lights.
 
The jumpers take the 11VAC from input pins 11 & 12 and route it through fuse F2 and resistor R27 to the coin door output header pins 1 & 2. Resistor R27 drops the voltage by about 4 volts which is about 7 volts or so. Close enough for incandescent bulbs.

You should see the following voltages:
* 11.7 VAC at pins 14 & 15 of the input connector (the 15 pin connector just below the fuses in the picture)
* 11.7 VAC on both sides of fuse F2
* 11.7 VAC on one side of resistor R27
* 7 VAC on the other side (closest to the output connector)
* 7 VAC at pins 1 & 2 of the output connector (just to the right of the big capacitor (upper right hand corner))

11.7 & 7 VAC are nominal voltages. Depending on your house AC voltage you may see slightly higher than these voltages.
 
an upright one in for testing

i'd remove and replace those electrolytic capacitors with new units definately.
might even be the first thing i'd do if i was going to keep and use those power supplies.

then i'd reflow any cold solder joints.

the other day i found a cold solder joint on a power supply out of a GALAGA that was so cold, it fell out in my hand !!!
 
The jumpers take the 11VAC from input pins 11 & 12 and route it through fuse F2 and resistor R27 to the coin door output header pins 1 & 2. Resistor R27 drops the voltage by about 4 volts which is about 7 volts or so. Close enough for incandescent bulbs.

You should see the following voltages:
* 11.7 VAC at pins 14 & 15 of the input connector (the 15 pin connector just below the fuses in the picture)
* 11.7 VAC on both sides of fuse F2
* 11.7 VAC on one side of resistor R27
* 7 VAC on the other side (closest to the output connector)
* 7 VAC at pins 1 & 2 of the output connector (just to the right of the big capacitor (upper right hand corner))

11.7 & 7 VAC are nominal voltages. Depending on your house AC voltage you may see slightly higher than these voltages.

Just pulled up the scat.

The CT uses a different configuration on both the power brick and the ps.

The power brick that you have will not provide voltage to the UR power supply that you are using without modifying the ps.

In order to use the UR ps in the CT you will have to do the following:
1. Remove R27
2. Install a jumper or zero ohm resistor at W1, W2, & W3

Doing this will make the ps not usable in the UR without changing it back.
 
Just pulled up the scat.

The CT uses a different configuration on both the power brick and the ps.

The power brick that you have will not provide voltage to the UR power supply that you are using without modifying the ps.

In order to use the UR ps in the CT you will have to do the following:
1. Remove R27
2. Install a jumper or zero ohm resistor at W1, W2, & W3

Doing this will make the ps not usable in the UR without changing it back.

Just send the original PS to Dokert he will rebuild it for you problem solved :)
 
Just pulled up the scat.

The CT uses a different configuration on both the power brick and the ps.

The power brick that you have will not provide voltage to the UR power supply that you are using without modifying the ps.

In order to use the UR ps in the CT you will have to do the following:
1. Remove R27
2. Install a jumper or zero ohm resistor at W1, W2, & W3

Doing this will make the ps not usable in the UR without changing it back.

Thanks. That is the info I needed. Guess I will wait until Monday when the rebuild kit arrives from Bob. No need to hack this working upright PS unless really needed. Even with it, I still get this :):)

DSC03822.jpg
 
Thanks. That is the info I needed. Guess I will wait until Monday when the rebuild kit arrives from Bob. No need to hack this working upright PS unless really needed. Even with it, I still get this :):)

The only thing in the affected circuit is the coin door lights and the start button lights.
 
The information Dokert gave on converting the UR to a cocktail ps may be your only option. Based on the pictures, the cocktail ps has been rebuilt recently. If that is the case the BR rebuild kit may not be sufficient.

ken
 
Back
Top Bottom