Jawhn's October Asteroids Score

jawhn

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Picked up a really nice Asteroids today. (For cheap!)

Side art / most cosmetics are minty, owl eye coindoor, only ugly part is the Willis CPO.

Teh bad: Only plays blind. That's why cheap. But I am getting neck glow and can coin it up / play / hear sounds. Coin door lights up, as does marquee. Buzzing sound out of speakers. Thrust noise is intermittent, and not sure if the Hyperspace button is working while playing it blind...?

Checked fuses, all good. Wiggled connectors, licked the anode cap... What other easy 'fixes' am I potentially missing?

Here are some pics. (It did happen.) They are crappy cellphone pics, I can't find my 'real' camera...
 

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Sorry man no easy fixes there. Start by rebuilding reflowing the monitor.

Andrew

Picked up a really nice Asteroids today. (For cheap!)

Side art / most cosmetics are minty, owl eye coindoor, only ugly part is the Willis CPO.

Teh bad: Only plays blind. That's why cheap. But I am getting neck glow and can coin it up / play / hear sounds. Coin door lights up, as does marquee. Buzzing sound out of speakers. Thrust noise is intermittent, and not sure if the Hyperspace button is working while playing it blind...?

Checked fuses, all good. Wiggled connectors, licked the anode cap... What other easy 'fixes' am I potentially missing?

Here are some pics. (It did happen.) They are crappy cellphone pics, I can't find my 'real' camera...
 
nice asteroids jawhn! hopefully it's not a board and monitor issue, just a monitor issue. you going to get a new cpo?
 
nice asteroids jawhn! hopefully it's not a board and monitor issue, just a monitor issue. you going to get a new cpo?

Yeah, I hope it's "just the monitor" too. I'm planning on swinging by Brien's at some point with the PCB just to make sure that's not the problem. He had some video problems with his PCB that he thought were all in the monitor until he tested my cocktail Asteroids board in his machine, and the video problem wasn't there. And then I'll move on to what Slackmoe suggested. (I'm dangerous with a soldering iron, though, hehe)

Makes me wonder - is there any danger of putting my CT PCB into my new machine? Is that a bad idea, in case there's something wrong with the new machine that could hurt the CT board? I'm not sure of the "rules of thumb" with stuff like this.

CPO eventually, but yes. That red/orange is just hideous... And I always liked the Red/White/Blue of the original. I'm pretty sure the original wasn't a CPO, but screenprinted...?
 
dude if it's a wells, it's a pretty easy monitor to work on.

It's a G05. (I'm newb enough I don't even know it it's a WG, though, hehe)

There seems to be 2 boards near the monitor. The one I would think was the chassis board, plus another with 2 giant blue caps on it. (Is that the XY board?)

Knowing how long it takes me to 'finish projects,' it might just be playing blind for a very long time... :D
 
Original was silkscreened but Arcadeshop sells a wrap around cpo the monitor is a g05-801

Andrew



It's a G05. (I'm newb enough I don't even know it it's a WG, though, hehe)

There seems to be 2 boards near the monitor. The one I would think was the chassis board, plus another with 2 giant blue caps on it. (Is that the XY board?)

Knowing how long it takes me to 'finish projects,' it might just be playing blind for a very long time... :D
 
Start with the bob cap kit and reflow every moles header and suspect solder joint. Cracked solder joints are very common on that.
 
Start with the bob cap kit and reflow every moles header and suspect solder joint. Cracked solder joints are very common on that.

Will do. I have to admit right now... I have absolutely no idea what a "moles header" is...? :confused:

As far as reflowing, just on the chassis, the XY board, both? What temp is ideal on a soldering iron for doing this?
 
Will do. I have to admit right now... I have absolutely no idea what a "moles header" is...? :confused:

As far as reflowing, just on the chassis, the XY board, both? What temp is ideal on a soldering iron for doing this?

F'n auto correct

Molex..
 
F'n auto correct

Molex..

Oh, ok.

I know what a molex connector is, but have no idea what a molex header is... Is that just the pins attached to the PCB?
 
Oh, ok.

I know what a molex connector is, but have no idea what a molex header is... Is that just the pins attached to the PCB?

Yep. I have brought two Asteroids monitors back now with just Bob's kit and reflowing. :)
 
Does your Asteroids table work? Sounds like you have a lot of projects that are a pain in the Asteroids.

+1 for Bob's rebuild kit. Very quick and easy.
 
Oh, ok.

I know what a molex connector is, but have no idea what a molex header is... Is that just the pins attached to the PCB?

if you think its the boards you can send them to road runner here and he'll fix and bulletproof them for you.
 
if you think its the boards you can send them to road runner here and he'll fix and bulletproof them for you.

Yeah, to answer you and 80scoinops, I sent my cocktail PCB to roadrunner and he fixed it, but there's something else wrong with the cocktail, apparently. :(

If I stuck my CT PCB into the upright, is there any chance it might do the fixed PCB any harm? I don't want to try anything too stupid...
 
I had a ADX that played blind as well and the spot killer light was on the chassis. Had a burnt cement resistor at R100. Did some reading and saw you could jumper this resistor with a piece of wire as it was not crucial to operation and was omitted from later versions of the chassis. Tested it out and boom, monitor worked like a dream. May not be your problem but I thought I would share. Nice pick up and good luck with your game.
 
A cap kit should take you less than a couple hours at the absolute worst even with a learning curve. The reason the molex pins need to be reflowed is because all the when you remove and replace the connectors they can wiggle and eventually cause a bad connection. I actually remove the old solder with a solder sucker of some kind and then add fresh solder onto them. The cap kit on that monitor is one of the easier ones so it's a good one to start on. It may not fix the problem but I'd guess I get about an 80% or better fix rate by just doing those 2 things.

Zanen also has good cap kits. Probably the equivalent of Bob but they take credit cards over the phone. :)

Enjoy the new game!
 
I have brought back to life 3 asteroids monitors by just reflowing the connector headers on the montor chassis... No cap kit:D

First I would test the main PCB in a working cab. Even though its playing blind, it does not mean its working correct. If the board does not send the proper xy signals to the monitor, your monitor will be black!!
 
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the ar board inside the asteroids should have test points,leave the original gameboard in there,meter them test points and see what you should have and are getting.if you got near enough the right voltages you should be fine to put the cocktail board in there and see what is what.

perhpas the gameboard also has test points?

cant you test the uprights board in the cocktail?if not why?
:)
 
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