Jamma Multi-switch

Freezepop

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im at a stand still when it comes to multi-switches. there are a couple ive seen discussed here and seen in some KLOV's store as well. there is the 6-1 which the boards are vertical and will more than likely need to be held in place by something so they dont touch. then theres the 2-1 which dose nothing for me. Then i found http://www.multigame.com which has a switch which you can have up to 8 jamma connected to it but need to purchase additional connectors, only thing with this one is it with the connectors you can extend them to place the jamma/cps2 boards secured to the cabinet.

Any feed back on either of these or if there are better ones for a decent price out there.

I want to get all my fighters together in one cab (MvC-SFvXmen-COTA-marvel super heros)
And i have some vertical games i also want to get into one cab so im not switching them out so much.

thanks all
 
I have the 8-1 from Clay, but I'm not too happy with it, since it keeps power to all 8 boards at once. I have the 6-1 from Jammaboards, but won't get around to installing it for another week or so. I do like that it only powers up one board at a time, but I'm not a fan of the idea of needing the remote to switch boards. I don't know if a switching button can be used instead of the remote.
 
Blargh! Not elegant at all, requires diodes to isolate the board kick harnesses.

Q: How do I use the MultiJAMMA with fighting games (etc.) that have extra buttons?

A: The MultiJAMMA supports the three "standard" buttons for each player on the JAMMA connector. It also support the fourth semi-standard button on the JAMMA connector. To use the MultiJAMMA with fighting games you simply connect the extra buttons on the control panel directly to the extra buttons inputs on each game board. The buttons do not need to go through the MultiJAMMA at all.
 
I've looked into a switcher since i have 12 games and 1 cab (lol, this will be changing soon). and i have to agree with Tighe the Multi jamma switchers i've looked into getting just leave a lot more to be wanted, not to mention wiring diodes into the kick harness's. i hate how the boards have such little space between them (making dual boardsets pretty much un usable). I know there's a few people that mod them out to do things that they're lacking but i'll stick to running around the back and swapping the harness.
 
Currently i have 8 cabinets one pin, and im out of room right now as i still have a cab coming for my 60-1. i have close to 50 boards and want to get them in a couple of cabs then clean up and sell the ones that i will not be playing. So a good switch is needed for what i want to do.
 
I agonized over my choice. The 6-in-1 has its drawbacks, but can be modded. The remote isn't an issue really.

Clay's board the issue I had with it was that it powers all the boards, you have buy secondary boards as well, and I don't like how it switches games.

Both boards suck for kick harness games as you need to solder in diodes to deal with button feedback.

I was lucky enough to have Zenomorp mod my board and make a super kick harness for my Multi-MK. So far I am happy with the 6-in-1, but in all honesty none of the switchers are great.
 
I agonized over my choice. The 6-in-1 has its drawbacks, but can be modded. The remote isn't an issue really.

Clay's board the issue I had with it was that it powers all the boards, you have buy secondary boards as well, and I don't like how it switches games.

Both boards suck for kick harness games as you need to solder in diodes to deal with button feedback.

I was lucky enough to have Zenomorp mod my board and make a super kick harness for my Multi-MK. So far I am happy with the 6-in-1, but in all honesty none of the switchers are great.

i actually contacted him about the vid he made of that, he reassured me that i didn't need to solder diodes if i wasn't using the switcher.

that right there almost completely sealed the switchers fate. unfortunately Zenomorp is away :(
 
The 6-in-1 has its drawbacks, but can be modded. The remote isn't an issue really.

How did you get around the remote? Can you hard wire a button to switch?

My main concern is for the Northwest Pinball and Gameroom Show. If I can't hard wire a button to switch games, I'll have to bring that cab as a single title cabinet, as I'm not going to leave a loose remote with the cab (and expect people to use it, and for it to still be there at the end of the weekend).

Kick harnesses aren't an issue for me as I don't really play fighting games anymore.

My 6 boards will most likely be:
Black Tiger
Snow Bros.
Rampart
Super Buster Bros.
Carrier Air Wing
Empire City: 1931
 
How did you get around the remote? Can you hard wire a button to switch?

It would be trivial to wire a standard arcade button to the button in the remote, and mount the remote inside the contol panel...

Of course, it's way overcomplicated, and I'm sure you could somehow wire a button to the switcher directly, but if you wanted something quick and dirty, it would be easy to mod the remote.

-Ian
 
In your case the remote would be an issue.

I store mine in the coin bucket...or under the control panel. You can always mod the remote or the board if you like though, shouldn't be too terribly hard.

Not sure how the switcher works with trackballs as a heads up, I am clueless on its performance there.
 
someone should make a switch for fighters. or something for cps2 boards. there are several games i have like D&D and would like to just have it in one cab and be able to switch with out hassle.
 
It would be trivial to wire a standard arcade button to the button in the remote, and mount the remote inside the contol panel...

Of course, it's way overcomplicated, and I'm sure you could somehow wire a button to the switcher directly, but if you wanted something quick and dirty, it would be easy to mod the remote.

-Ian

I don't like how the switchers out there keep all the boards powered all the time. Maxim makes all kinds of IC switches and relays, maybe one day I will have the time to make one my self, that or use a 4 port KVM.
 
I don't like how the switchers out there keep all the boards powered all the time. Maxim makes all kinds of IC switches and relays, maybe one day I will have the time to make one my self, that or use a 4 port KVM.

I have plenty of KVM switches and thought about the possibilities. Surely there is some reason you couldn't use one or somebody would have by now. Right?
 
It would be trivial to wire a standard arcade button to the button in the remote, and mount the remote inside the contol panel...

I already have a button from the 8-in-1, but that was one button that cycled 1--> 2 --> 3 --> 4 --> 5 --> 6 --> 7 --> 8 --> 1 etc.

The 6-in-1 remote has 6 different buttons, one for each game.

Not sure how the switcher works with trackballs as a heads up, I am clueless on its performance there.

I'm assuming you're mentioning this because Rampart was one of the boards I mentioned. I have the 2P version that uses joysticks instead of trackballs, so that shouldn't be an issue. It's not as good as the 3P version, but it's still fun.

someone should make a switch for fighters. or something for cps2 boards. there are several games i have like D&D and would like to just have it in one cab and be able to switch with out hassle.

Aren't the kick harness different though between series?

I don't like how the switchers out there keep all the boards powered all the time.

The 6-in-1 only powers one board at a time. Isn't it only the 8-in-1 that powers all the boards all the time? I haven't used any of the 2-in-1's so I'm not sure about those.
 
When it comes to CPS-1 and CPS-2/3 kick harnesses, one solution could be to not use the switcher at all for that component. Not as elegant, but you could have six kick harnesses all sharing the same six kick buttons the "old fashioned way" (have them share the same disconnects at the button switches). As long as they aren't powered on at the same time, I don't see it being an issue.
 
Yea I hadn't realized there was a rampart with joysticks had only ever seen the trackball version.

The 6-in-1 only powers one board at a time, which can be a touch annoying waiting for the game to load, but I would rather do that then power all of the boards at the same time.
 
The 6-in-1 only powers one board at a time, which can be a touch annoying waiting for the game to load, but I would rather do that then power all of the boards at the same time.

No kidding. My cabinet was like a sauna at the '09 Northwest Pinball and Gameroom Show with the 8-in-1 in there running all day long.
 
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