JAMMA cab power problem

I forgot to add, when I was swapping power supplys the spade connector on the +5v was really corroded. I put a new one on of course.
 
well it looks like you have a light blue wire and a grey wire going to the line filter from the power cord and a green wire (ground) going to the side of the line filter. This is correctly wired and we know you have 110 vac. So far it is good.

Leaving the filter you have a black wire and a tan wire (which tested 110 vac). Perfect.

Each color has two wires. One black and one tan goes to the isolation transformer.
Please confirm if i am correct.

Also the other set of black and tan wires goes where???
 
You are correct.
The other black and tan wires go to the marquee light.
What are the chances my new switcher was dead out of the box?
 
What are the chances my new switcher was dead out of the box?

And im not getting any power to the PS which is brand new.

But you are saying that you don't get any power to it. You should be - working power supply or not. If you are not getting AC power TO the power supply, you will get no output. Just as a television set that's not plugged in isn't going to work.

You need to troubleshoot your AC wiring problem.

-Ian
 
I feel like a complete idiot for this, my dmm battery was dying while I was troubleshooting and I think it was giving me false readings. The switcher is getting 120acv to it.
 
but still it is highly unlikely that a new switcher is not working at all, totally dead.
Also your monitor is not protected by a fuse. It should have a fuse before the isolation transformer
 
I feel like a complete idiot for this, my dmm battery was dying while I was troubleshooting and I think it was giving me false readings. The switcher is getting 120acv to it.

The switcher is getting proper voltage and no dc voltage out= New or not=BAD power supply.
 
The switcher is getting proper voltage and no dc voltage out= New or not=BAD power supply.

Could be miswired. Some switchers are picky about line/neutral inputs being the right way around.

tomtime -- try swapping the L and N input wires on the switcher. You never know.
 
Yeah, there should be L/N/G. Switch L and N.

Huh? How exactly is this going to change anything?

If he's getting 120v at the input to the power supply, and nothing on the output, it's a bad power supply. Either that, or the power supply is in shutdown (outputs are shorted, etc). Live and neutral being swapped won't prevent the power supply from working.

-Ian
 
Huh? How exactly is this going to change anything?

If he's getting 120v at the input to the power supply, and nothing on the output, it's a bad power supply. Either that, or the power supply is in shutdown (outputs are shorted, etc). Live and neutral being swapped won't prevent the power supply from working.

-Ian

As I said above, some cheap switchers are picky about how their input is wired -- they won't run or will fry themselves if you have line and neutral backwards, and I don't trust people to notice the minus sign on their meters, or get their probes the right way around for that matter.
 
As I said above, some cheap switchers are picky about how their input is wired -- they won't run or will fry themselves if you have line and neutral backwards,
I can honestly say I've never heard of a power supply that cared. A reversed hot/neutral should NOT matter. Especially for a switcher. Incoming AC gets rectified straight off the bat. Reversed hot and neutral lines is a VERY common wiring problem in houses, not to mention all the games with the ground prongs broken off so they could be plugged into ungrounded outlets. I call BS on this. Find me an arcade switching power supply that gets fried (or won't function) when hot and neutral are swapped and I will be VERY surprised.

and I don't trust people to notice the minus sign on their meters, or get their probes the right way around for that matter.
Huh? It's AC. You can't measure it backwards.

-Ian
 
I can honestly say I've never heard of a power supply that cared. A reversed hot/neutral should NOT matter. Especially for a switcher. Incoming AC gets rectified straight off the bat. Reversed hot and neutral lines is a VERY common wiring problem in houses, not to mention all the games with the ground prongs broken off so they could be plugged into ungrounded outlets. I call BS on this. Find me an arcade switching power supply that gets fried (or won't function) when hot and neutral are swapped and I will be VERY surprised.

Some of the redemption pieces at work have picky switchers you can't wire backwards or they just won't turn on. I don't know why, but it is what it is. And yeah, this would be a problem if your house wiring is wrong too.

Huh? It's AC. You can't measure it backwards.

There is a positive and negative, of sorts -- at least, a Line and Neutral. I just tried my meter here at work, it can't seem to tell the difference -- but I've done it with my meter at home, and that one can. Well, that explains a lot...
 
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