JAMMA 48-in-1 FAQ

Ice Cream Jonsey

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I've been compiling as much info as possible on the JAMMA 48-in-1 PCB over the last few weeks. There are a bunch of threads scattered about, so here is my attempt to put it all in one spot.

The problem is that the forum requires three characters to run a search. So if a poster calls it the 48 in 1 in a message, well, the BBS can't find it. I personally have been trying to go with "48-in-1," as that comes up correctly.

Let me thank everyone who has helped out. It is appreciated. If there are any mistakes, just let me know. If there are more questions, I'll add them to the post while it lets me edit, and then at the end just post an off-site URL with everything new, if necessary.

=-=-=-=-

Q: Are there other FAQs available?

Sure. For instance, this one is a little outdated, but still good: http://www.jammaboards.com/jcenter_48-in-1_multigame_faq.html


Q: What games are available?

There is a list here: http://www.jammaboards.com/store/48-in-1-multicade-pcb/prod_194.html

In case that goes off-line, the lineup is:
Pac-Man, Ms. Pac-Man, Super Pac-Man, Space Invaders, Pengo, Gyruss, Mr. Do!, Pac-Man Plus, Donkey Kong, Donkey Kong Jr., Galaga, Frogger, Galaxian, Dig Dug, Galaga3, Ladybug, Millipede, BurgerTime, Jr. Pac-Man, Mappy, 1942, Centipede, Phoenix, Time Pilot, Super Cobra, Super Breakout, New Rally X, Arkanoid, Qix, Juno First, Xevious, Mr. Do's Castle, Scramble, Bomb Jack, 1943, Zaxxon, Donkey Kong 3, Dig Dug 2, Crush, Tank Battalion, Hustler, Space Panic, Moon Cresta, Pinball Action, Shao-Lin's Road, King & Balloon, Van-Van Car and Amidar.


Q: Is the manual that comes with it available as a PDF on the Internet?

Yup. Right here: http://www.jammaboards.com/arcade_manuals/39-in-1_Multi-JAMMA_PCB_Manual.pdf


Q: What buttons do I need?

You'll want TEST and SERVICE hooked up to something, whether it's on your control panel or elsewhere.

The games themselves use buttons 1, 2 and 3. (3 is only used to select a starting level in Super Breakout.)

Player 1 Start is used to start the game in free play mode, and to save your settings during the setup. (I assume Player 2 start does the same for a two player game. Have not tried it yet.) The Player 2 Start button will save settings as well.

This list also says what needs what: http://forums.webmagic.com/forums-attachments//684386-48-in-1.supplement2.jpg


Q: What is the best joystick to use? (4-way/8-way)

The games that use an 8-way are 1942, 1943, Juno First, Scramble, Super Cobra, Xevious, Bomb Jack, Galaga 3, Gyruss, Time Pilot and Zaxxon. Millipede and Centipede also support 8-way movement, since they can't use a trackball. The decision for each gamer - assuming you do not have one of those sticks that are easy to change without ripping your control panel apart - is a little sketchier control in the 4-way games versus more movement for the 8-way games. It basically comes down to what games you'll play more, I suppose.

Some people have also installed two joysticks on their control panel, one 4-way and one 8-way, so that works too.


Q: How do I get power to the board?

You can do it through your JAMMA connector. I personally used an ATX power supply. I shorted two wires so the PS comes on every time the toggle switch on the PS is flipped, and then used the molex connector that would normally go to a hard drive. More info is about getting the ATX going is halfway down the page here: http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/28/how-to-consolize-an-arcade-game

modessitt: Also, a switching power supply can be connected to the JAMMA wiring for power.


Q: How does the VGA monitor support work?

All you need to do is plug the VGA connector on your monitor into the VGA port on the board. (And you'll want to rotate your monitor on its side. No bars here!) If you want to use an actual arcade monitor, you'll be going through your JAMMA connector for red, green, blue and sync.


Q: How does the CGA arcade monitor support work?

modessitt: If you are using a normal CGA arcade monitor - the sync is composite negative sync and must be hooked up that way. Also, there is a dip switch setting to use it with either standard-res or medium-res monitors.


Q: The screen image is upside down! Do I have to remove/rotate my monitor?

modessitt: No. The screen image can be flipped by switching dip switch #1 on the PCB if the picture comes up upside-down.


Q: Can you use a trackball for Centipede and Millipede?

You can't. The 48-in-1 doesn't support it. The 60-in-1 does, though.


Q: Can you use a spinner for Arkanoid and Super Breakout?

cadillacman: As i have learned... 48-in-1 does not support a trackball or anything except a 4 or 8 way joystick. The 60 in one is supposed to support a trackball[...].


Q: Can you disable games and turn off the default music?

Yes. Hold the TEST button when you boot up, and you'll eventually go into a menu that lets you disable games. If you disable them all but one, the PCB acts like a "dedicated" version of that game.

modessitt: These changes can only be made if the TEST button is held at boot up. If they hold the SERVICE button down, it will only show the color-grid screen, and the input test screen, not the menu screens. I normally hook the TEST wire to the S2 button, that way I can enter test at anytime I power it up without opening the coin door to get to an internal button. It will say "Setup OK" on the screen when the save is finished. and that saving can be done after all changes have been made (not necessary after each screen), but MUST be made on the volume adjust screen before moving on to the input test screen.

modessitt: If you are putting this game into an existing JAMMA cabinet that doesn't have TEST or SERVICE buttons in it, and you don't know how to add them - TEST mode can be entered by flipping dip switch #4 on the PCB.


Q: I want to do things like enable fast shot on Galaga and give myself 5 lives on Donkey Kong. Can that be done?

Yes. When you go into service mode, you can set the specifications for each game.


Q: The volume is too low / too high.

modessitt: There is an orange volume pot on the board that can be adjusted with a small screwdriver, and a volume adjust screen at the end of the menu that can be adjusted. I normally turn the board adjustment all the way up, then turn it down with the screen adjustment. When setting the sound on the screen, note that the music that is playing is a little softer than what the actual game sounds will be. If in doubt, play Scramble - one of the loudest games on the PCB - to see if it's too loud.


Q: Does the 48-in-1 save high scores?

jethrokiller: I was very disappointed in the high score feature as well. It would be awesome if they would save high score AND Initials. But all the 39/48/60 in 1's only save the top score, and no initials.

FrizzleFried: For clarity purposes: MOST/ALL games allow you to enter your initials, and even retains full scoring information WHILE POWERED. When you turn off the power all info is lost aside from the highest SCORE ONLY (no initials).

modessitt: Some games will save the highest score only with no initials. Some won't save any. Some only save if you start another game afterwards...


Q: Are there any 2 player simultaneous games on the 48-in-1 warranting the need for two Joysticks?

"RussMyers": 1943 is two-player simultaneous. (1942 is not two-player simul).

There is a DIP switch setting to put the system into two-player mode. I assume you need it set that way for 1943. (Need to confirm)

modessitt: The two player simultaneous will require the dip switch setting in the menu to be changed to "Upright - 2 Joysticks" for it to work. And - obviously - you will need two joysticks on your cab, with buttons for each player.


Q: Am I a bad person for turning off Donkey Kong 3?

No.
 
Q: Am I a bad person for turning off Donkey Kong 3?

YES.
i went ahead and fixed that for you.
grin.gif
 
That joystick looks pretty cool. How do you switch from 4 to 8 way and versa vice?

Haven't actually seen one in person, but apparently you pull up on the stick, rotate it, and then drop it back into place which orients the restrictor plate from 4-way to 8-way. The only complaints I've read about is that the throw is short on the sticks, which can effect some fighting games. I'm hoping that won't be an issue for the classics.
 
Q: Can you disable games and turn off the default music?

Yes. Hold the service button when you boot up, and you'll eventually go into a menu that lets you disable games. If you disable them all but one, the PCB acts like a "dedicated" version of that game. And yes, the fact that you can disable the music should be used as an argument against atheism.


Q: I want to do things like enable fast shot on Galaga and give myself 5 lives on Donkey Kong. Can that be done?

Yes. When you go into service mode, you can set the specifications for each game.

You need to change both of these answers from saying "service mode" to "test mode". Since you previously said that a TEST and SERVICE button need to be hooked up, it should be noted that these changes can only be made if the TEST button is held at boot up. If they hold the SERVICE button down, it will only show the color-grid screen, and the input test screen, not the menu screens. I normally hook the TEST wire to the S2 button, that way I can enter test at anytime I power it up without opening the coin door to get to an internal button.

Also important to mention that - if you are putting this game into an existing JAMMA cabinet that doesn't have TEST or SERVICE buttons in it, and you don't know how to add them - TEST mode can be entered by flipping dip switch #4 on the PCB.

Also, Player 2 Start does save also. You should mention that it will say "Setup OK" on the screen when the save is finished. and that saving can be done after all changes have been made (not necessary after each screen), but MUST be made on the volume adjust screen before moving on to the input test screen.

You should mention that a switching power supply can be connected to the JAMMA wiring for power.

Another important thing to note is that - if you are using a normal CGA arcade monitor - the sync is composite negative sync and must be hooked up that way. Also, there is a dip switch setting to use it with either standard-res or medium-res monitors.

One of the more important notes would be the fact that the screen image can be flipped by switching dip switch #1 on the PCB if the picture comes up upside-down. I know the dip switch info is in the book, but a couple questions have come up recently from people who either didn't read their book, or missed it.

The two player simultaneous will require the dip switch setting in the menu to be changed to "Upright - 2 Joysticks" for it to work. And - obviously - you will need two joysticks on your cab, with buttons for each player.

Mention that there is an orange volume pot on the board that can be adjusted, and a volume adjust screen at the end of the menu that can be adjusted. I normally turn the board adjustment all the way up, then turn it down with the screen adjustment. WHen setting the sound on the screen, note that the music that is playing is a little softer than what the actual game sounds will be. If in doubt, play Scramble - one of the loudest games on the PCB - to see if it's too loud.


A good idea for the FAQ, btw. We'll all have to book mark this thread so we can point people at it faster....
 
Thanks! I think I have all your suggestions implemented in some sort of logical flow for the thing. Do not hestitate to let me know if you think of more stuff.
 
How quickly this falls away. 5 pages back!

Noticed something new about these things today. This is TOTALLY stupid, idiotic, and asinine!

It seems that if you wire one of these up to accept quarters, and hook the COIN 1 wire to one coin switch, and COIN 2 wire to the other coin switch, then set the game at a higher price than a quarter (50 cents per play, etc), then you MUST drop both quarters in the same coin slot for a credit to register. For some reason, the programming is set up to read each coin slot separately like it's Gauntlet or something. If you drop a quarter in the left slot, it will show on the bottom right of the screen:

1/2 Credit Coin 1

If you then drop a quarter in the right slot, it will say:

1/2 credit Coin 1
1/2 credit Coin 2

But it will not allow you to start a game. You have to drop a third quarter in one of the slots to complete that full credit, and it will leave a 1/2 credit in from the other slot until another quarter is dropped into that slot!

This is completely stupid! It should stack the credits in the memory, no matter WHICH slot they are dropped in. The different wires should only matter for coin counters (if you want separate ones to keep track of whether coin mechs are functioning properly), or if you have other currency to accept like dollar coins.

It seems that it would be better to have the COIN 1 wire connected to both coin switches, and leave the COIN 2 wire for attaching to a bill acceptor if one is used....
 
Good find. I can't edit the post any longer, but people will go through the thread, I believe.

I copied everything to a post on my website, which is here. I can, of course, still modify that, and I will add what you found.

I could swear we saw that happen on a cocktail 48-in-1 in San Jose last year. I was in town for a friend's wedding. A bunch of us went to a kareoke bar and the thing was in a far corner, yet near the bar, so we set up shop next to it. This proved to be wise, because a lot of kareoke singers are truly terrible (no judgement: I included myself that night). We put some quarters in to play and sat there like idiots when it hadn't registered them correctly. We had a bunch of quarters (er, and a bunch of booze) so further details are sketchy, but I seem to recall using the other coin slot for the next game.
 
Jonsey, nice compilation of info....one more question: You say that button 3 is only for Super Breakout. Does that mean that I will need a #3 button on both players if I set this up for 2-player simultaneous play or should I have 3 buttons on player one and 2 on player two? Thanks.
 
Ah, just sent you a PM! Since the original game only had controls for one player, I assume they alternate on the first player's controls, and thus you only need one button #3. Can anyone confirm?
 
If he is setting it up for two joysticks in order to play 1943 simultaneous, then other two player games will switch between joysticks, similar to the cocktail mode, so yes, he will need three buttons for each joystick if he wants that third option for Breakout...
 
Somewhat on-topic, with the 36 in one can you exit a game you are in? Example, someone starts a game with 5 lives then walks away and you just want to snap back to the main screen.
 
Neither the 39, the 48, or the 60-in-1 allow you to do this, although I wish it would. The only way to get out is to die, or shut the game off and wait for it to reboot back up.



Another thing that might need to be added to the FAQ (that I don't think is in there) is that - on the "A" boards, and the later series 'B" boards that are identical, you can hit your S1 (main fire/jump) button during the game selection menu for a brief full-screen attract-mode of a specific game. It will flash a big red "PREVIEW" over the attract-mode. You cannot start the game via the start buttons until you exit the preview screen. You can exit the preview screen by either hitting the S1 button again, or waiting until the preview time runs out (about 15 seconds)....
 
AS boards do that... you can configure it to hold down P1 and P2 start for x number of seconds to return to the menu. On the "ASS" side of things though, the AS board doesn't offer a selectable "PREVIEW" of games, so catching that high score screen is a bitch sometimes.
 
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