I've heard of the image being shifted, but this is ridiculous...

modessitt

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I've heard of the image being shifted, but this is ridiculous...

Took an unknown G07 and did a cap kit/flyback/cold solder job tonight, and the image is WAY shifted. I'll replace the HOT just to see, but I think I may need to dig into the horizontal centering circuit. Centering rings are fine....

SDC11971.jpg
 
Took an unknown G07 and did a cap kit/flyback/cold solder job tonight, and the image is WAY shifted. I'll replace the HOT just to see, but I think I may need to dig into the horizontal centering circuit. Centering rings are fine....

SDC11971.jpg

That looks like my first tube swap. *sigh*
 
Well, this is an original G07 tube. Doesn't look like the HOT has much to do with centering. I'm going to go check out the output of the HA11244 and other components on that circuit...
 
Well, all the resistors and stuff in the centering area seem to be okay. I'm going to change out the oscillator chip, until I realized I didn't have any here at home. I'll stop by the shop tomorrow while I'm out and grab one....
 
Okay, this is some weird shit.

After replacing the HA11244 with no change, I messed around with the horizontal circuit, replacing D505, R527, the horizontal hold pot, etc with no change. Did some reading about flyback theory and learned that a bad AFC (Automatic Frequency Control) line could cause this (extreme shift left or right), I concentrated on checking that out, but not finding anything.

So, I pulled three games out so I could get to my Frogger, and pulled the newly rebuilt and working G07 out of it. Hooked it up to this tube - and got more picture, but found that it only locked with the bottom of the image at the top and the top of the image at the bottom - with 3-4 inches of black space in between. :mad:

So I messed around with it for a bit, and eventually got this chassis to do the exact same thing as the other chassis - offset way to the left.

Well, I decided to sleep on it. Today I went in and decided to take my original problem chassis and stick it into the Frogger. Perfect picture! Everything is where it should be. Hmm, I think, this means the problem has to be with the tube, yoke, or rings.

Since I don't see how the tube could cause this, I swapped the yoke (even though the original measured okay). Still get the same offset picture. Next I swapped the rings. Still get the same offset picture. That means it has to be the tube? What could go wrong with the tube that would make the entire picture be offset this much? It's a 19VMNP22 and has burn-in to indicate it's worked in the past...
 
60-in-1's work just fine with G07's, and I thought of that but it does the same thing with several other boards I tried.

And it's not the tube, it seems, just the tube paired with a G07. I pulled the G07 that was fine in the Frogger and put it back on this tube and got the shifted image. Swapped the yoke and rings from the Frogger to this tube and got the shifted image. Swapped the chassis to a TV tube with a G07 yoke and rings and got the shifted image. Put a 4900 yoke and chassis on this tube and got a perfect picture - so not the tube. Put the shifted G07 back in the Frogger and a perfect picture.

As far as I can tell, the G07 works fine, just not with this tube or the TV tube. I need to get another tube and try it....
 
Some do and some don't. I just adjust the B+ a little and it straightens out...
 
I am probley wrong here but on the 60 in 1 board do you have the monitor set for CGA instead of VGA? Just a suggestion.

Andrew
 
i had a nib makvision once that got dropped hard during shipping.

had a simular issue but mine was all out of whack colorwise as well.

as far as i coud tell the phosphor mask/screen was bent/bowed
 
Well, both G07 chassis work fine with the other tube, and don't with this tube. The K4900 works fine with this tube. I will be finding another tube for this G07 chassis....
 
I had this problem with a Centipede CT that I was looking at for a friend. It turned out to be incorrect sync setup.

The Centipede UR uses positive sync and the CT uses negative comp sync.

What I am getting at, is play with your sync wires and see what happens.
 
I was thinking about that. My test rig is usually fine, but I wonder if something funky is going on there. I might try taking the monitor to a cab and seeing if it's messed up there. You'd think that if it was a wire issue, then the 4900 would have a similar issue...
 
I knew I had seen your issue before, but it took me a while to remember the where when and what of it.

I quit using my 48-1 for testing monitors because of all of the different color and sync issues that I was seeing. Now I use either my Williams test rig or my new Nintendo test rig, and have not had any problems to date.
 
I knew I had seen your issue before, but it took me a while to remember the where when and what of it.

I quit using my 48-1 for testing monitors because of all of the different color and sync issues that I was seeing. Now I use either my Williams test rig or my new Nintendo test rig, and have not had any problems to date.

Well, I plugged a JAMMA Wheel of Fortune in and had the same problem. Then got a Non-JAMMA with an adapter and had the same problem. If anything, I think it's wiring. I'll test that theory...tomorrow...
 
The chassis works fine in my Frogger (which had a G07 setup). I'm guessing the issue was with the sync signal from the test boards, but I still need to take the entire tube and chassis to another non-JAMMA game and hook it up to see what's up...
 
I bumped an old post I found where someone had the exact same thing with the exact same PCB - but with a K7000. And since the chassis works fine in Frogger, I'm fairly certain the chassis is not the cause...
 
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