it's original should i replace this?

JordanT

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This machine is pretty original down to the top glass but it's looking kinda ragged
should i replace the silk screened glass or do collectors care about that kinda thing.
 

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I'd suggest:

- Mask off clear parts,
- Apply triple thick clear pottery glaze,
- Apply Saran Wrap over to hold down the flaky parts during drying,
- Once dry touch up as needed and probably spot coat with more triple thick,
- If the coats came out thick or uneven, smooth off the highspots with 1000-2000 wet sanding.

I'm not sure how much original affects value on these. But if the original is in poor condition, it'd probably be worth about the same whether you touch it up or replace it.
 
That looks a bit rough, but I'd follow this advice if it were mine:

I'd suggest:

- Mask off clear parts,
- Apply triple thick clear pottery glaze,
- Apply Saran Wrap over to hold down the flaky parts during drying,
- Once dry touch up as needed and probably spot coat with more triple thick,
- If the coats came out thick or uneven, smooth off the highspots with 1000-2000 wet sanding.

I'm not sure how much original affects value on these. But if the original is in poor condition, it'd probably be worth about the same whether you touch it up or replace it.

I really don't think it's beyond salvaging, to be honest. Might be a bit of work, but personally I'd prefer a touched up original than a repro. That's me, though. Depends on how attached you are to it.
 
I'll also say... try repairing via using paint. It is already rough, all you could do is improve it. If it doesn't come out to your satisfaction, replace it.

I like my games original, but if a part of them is an eye sore and I can't 'hide' it (i.e. my poor Joust is all original, down to each and every PCB, but an area of the paint on the right side is all flaked off (must have been the side facing sunlight/heat/etc). So I put that side against a wall or another game (though someday I may try to match the paint and touch up the side, as it is mostly the brown). It is only original once. But if the CPO is all burnt, pieces missing/etc, replace with the best reproduction you can get :).

For games that have cosmetic issues, we're not at the "Don't touch that barn find, leave the dirt there/etc, it's worth so much more the way you found it" (like old classic cars). The premium examples in this hobby will be the home use only, never unboxed, etc games. We may see a day where original art in rough shape is worth more than a re-stenciled/etc game.

Ultimately, it is your game, and you should do what makes you happy (just please don't 60-in-1 it :) ).
 
Looks to me that you're going to replace the CPOs anyway.
So also replacing the glass with a nice silkscreened one makes more sense to make this game "shine".

Of course, it depends some on what you plan on doing with it.
Keep it? Sell it to non-collector? Sell it to collector? This could impact your decision too.
 
I'd suggest:

- Mask off clear parts,
- Apply triple thick clear pottery glaze,
- Apply Saran Wrap over to hold down the flaky parts during drying,
- Once dry touch up as needed and probably spot coat with more triple thick,
- If the coats came out thick or uneven, smooth off the highspots with 1000-2000 wet sanding.

I'm not sure how much original affects value on these. But if the original is in poor condition, it'd probably be worth about the same whether you touch it up or replace it.


+1 on this but make sure to use FROG tape and not painters tape because the triple thick will bleed under the painters tape but not the FROG tape. i have done this many times and never needed to sand so just make sure to spray even coats and the saran wrap is only necessary if the flaking is raised and it allows you to press it down. (i personally don't use saran wrap because if you apply the triple thick and then use a pencil eraser and press the raised flakes down while wet they will stay down) with saran wrap it can wrinkle and leaves your finish very rough so if you use it then it needs to be applied perfectly smooth. make sure to tape the outer edge of the glass. once dry paint the whole under side with a coat of satin black enamel paint (spray or extra fine roller) will work well.

the above will be a great improvement and will also stop it from getting worse, but if you want a perfect game and money isn't an object then replace the glass.
 
Personal opinion:

The underlays are fine, but on some cabs the underlay will extend past the tabletop by the control panels. Which is a very tiny bit annoying.

In your case though, judging by the pictures, you'd probably be adding more value by replacing as opposed to touching up. If that is your main goal.
 
Depends on what kind of collector you are.

For myself, I would leave it alone.
Cheaper Simpler solution.
I have no worries about scratches..
I have no worries about sun damage art.
I have no worries about imperfect overlays.

I can put my drink down without a coaster..
I can use the table top as a work bench.

Now if I needed to impress others or sell the game, I would spend time and money to do a restoration.
 
yah i was not sure about paint given it was already flaking off i am doing the controllers there in rough shape whats the best repro out there?
 
Depends on what kind of collector you are.

For myself, I would leave it alone.
Cheaper Simpler solution.
I have no worries about scratches..
I have no worries about sun damage art.
I have no worries about imperfect overlays.

I can put my drink down without a coaster..
I can use the table top as a work bench.

That's exactly how I feel about my games.
 
Remove it and prep the other side for black paint. Knock off the loose flakes and any residue with a high percent alcohol. Use Satin black and follow up with some clear polyurethane spray. It will give it a stylish look. I did the same for a Galaga Upright monitor bezel. It looks great.

This is the correct answer. :)
There's no reason to use Triple Thick clear here since you will not be touching up any colors. Also, I don't think it matters if you use satin or gloss... it should look the same from the side you'll be viewing (through the glass). I used gloss black on a Space Invaders cocktail glass and it came out perfect.
 
the question you have to ask first is do you plan on keeping it?

next question is does it matter that much to you?

Once you decide that, you might have 4 options.

1: touchup/protect what you have ($5)
2: replace with underlay (about $40) and reuse the glass
3: replace with underlay and new glass (about $130)
4: replace with repo screened glass(not sure if phoenix arcade is still making them)

If your going to sell it, I don't think it matters that much what you choose. People will say keep it original, but the most likely buyer would probably prefer the nicer new look over original. I think a bigger issue would be screen burn.
 
Last edited:
Checked PA's website and the silk'd cktl glass is no longer listed. :(
Did PA also have the cktl CPOs? (not there either)
 
I can put my drink down without a coaster..

What do you mean without a coaster, the table top IS the coaster...

I thought that was the point. It is called a Cocktail Cab for a reason.

:D
 
What do you mean without a coaster, the table top IS the coaster...

I thought that was the point. It is called a Cocktail Cab for a reason.

:D

Hard to play on any cocktail cab with a "Warp core breach" smoking on top.

Of course playing any arcade game is difficult after having one of those cocktails.

What do you mean I was suppose to share it? Laughs....
 
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