Isolation Transformer-less Monitors (Rampage World Tour needs a monitor)

Broodwich

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Isolation Transformer-less Monitors (Rampage World Tour needs a monitor)

I recently obtained a Rampage World Tour with the wrong monitor installed in it. A previous owner put a K7191 in and powered it up sans isolation transformer >.< (this is a different topic).

I'm looking to replace the monitor in it, i'd prefer to keep it as original as possible and would like to stay with the newer Iso-less monitor. I think it was originally a Neotec NT-2515C/NT25-E (from reading another post), but i've heard there were other possible monitors installed in it from the factory. If any owners / previous owners have any info on this and can chime in that would be awesome. I got all/most of the original documentation for the machine but unfortunately there is no monitor info listed, and i can't cross reference the part number via suzohapp.

In the instance that I would go with a non original monitor type, what would you guys recommend for an iso-less monitor? any i should stay away from specifically? any i should fight dirty for???

I think besides that neotec a Hantarex Polo and possibly a u5000 were optional monitors from the factory for this machine but definitely correct me if i'm wrong.
 
i would keep the K7000 in it there's nothing wrong with that monitor for that game.

as far as i know most were kit games and you just used whatever monitor you had in the cab at the time.

it's standard res any way.

just add an iso and repair that K7000 problem solved.

Peace
Buffett
 
i would keep the K7000 in it there's nothing wrong with that monitor for that game.

as far as i know most were kit games and you just used whatever monitor you had in the cab at the time.

it's standard res any way.

just add an iso and repair that K7000 problem solved.

Peace
Buffett

yea that's kinda the last ditch option because if i do that then i have to move or replace the peter chu atx style power supply to put the iso in. I'd like to keep it iso-less if possible, i've heard you can run the polo's with no iso and they have an amazing picture (but i've heard from a few that they don't last as long with no iso). It's not a common game to find so that's why i'm trying to keep it fairly original.

This is a dedicated RWT (mine in pic 1), pic 2 is of someone elses interior (w/ unknown non original monitor (as you can tell by electrical twist nuts)).

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there's no reason to remove or change the power supply you can just install the iso in between the line that goes to the monitor now and then to the monitor. adding one component is easy. the iso has nothing to do with the power supply any way.
their is plenty of room in that cab to mount anything.
plus if you don't have a monitor ready for the cab except the one that's in there now you will probably pay more for a new /used one in the long run.
K7000's are easy to fix

also polo's require an iso as well.

neoteks don't but they are a POS in my opinion hard to get some parts for and difficult to fix for most people.

Peace
Buffett
 
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neoteks don't but they are a POS in my opinion hard to get some parts for and difficult to fix for most people.

Peace
Buffett

ok that's kinda the feedback i'm looking for. :D

i talked to one of the machines previous owners and he said it was definitely the neotec i mentioned earlier. so i guess i'm looking for that or another isoless monitor or going with option 3.


Option 3: I already purchased a mortal kombat version of what that peter chu atx power supply is bolted to but with isolation transformer (seen in picture, i normally call the "Midway power brick"). which is my reason for having to move/remove that peter chu in exchange for a screw type (which i like better personally) that i can mount to the wall of the cab.


Personally i love the k7100 monitors (i have 3 working ones and the one that's sitting in RWT untested by me), but i need to learn other monitors as well and as i said i'd like to stay iso-less if possible and would love some other options besides the neotec.
 

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don't buy a neotek if you can even find that POS.

and don't go with the other power brick. you are adding a giant headache to your machine.
you will have to rewire that transformer to make it isolated along with rewiring the cab HV side to make it work.

add 1 iso in between the line between the monitor that is there now ( 4 crimps or no crimps and solder them, 4 screws and done). and either repair the chassis you have or buy one ready to go and be done with it.
that is the best and essayist option you can do.

i can fix your chassis or you can buy one ready to go from me if you don't want to do it yourself. with new fly and a complete cap out with HQ caps and a re flow of the chassis.

unless you find another non iso'ed monitor witch if is in good condition will probably run you 150+ any way plus shipping if it is not local.

Peace
Buffett
 
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Just install an isolation transformer... It's really, really, really, really easy. You don't have to change the power supply - the PSU and isolation transformer are two completely different devices and do different things, and are in no way related to each other, beyond the fact that they both use 120VAC power.

If you want, I can even install it for you, or show you how to do it.

-Ian
 
Just install an isolation transformer... It's really, really, really, really easy. You don't have to change the power supply - the PSU and isolation transformer are two completely different devices and do different things, and are in no way related to each other, beyond the fact that they both use 120VAC power.

If you want, I can even install it for you, or show you how to do it.

-Ian

lol i know how to install a iso transformer, if i didn't i shouldn't be in this hobby :D

i just don't want to put un needed additional holes in the cab mounting the iso somewhere unless absolutely needed. I'd love some options for an iso-less monitor. the whole reason for swapping out that peter chu is so i can use the nice MK style power brick with iso box mounted to it, not because i have to but because it would look neater and nicer.
 
Well, if you want an iso-less monitor, get a K7400 or U2000.

I'm pretty sure mine had one of those, but it's been a while since I sold it...
 
i am confused you are worried about putting holes in the bottom of your cab. even with screws that don't penetrate threw the thickness of the wood:confused::confused::confused:



Peace
Buffett
 
Well, if you want an iso-less monitor, get a K7400 or U2000.

I'm pretty sure mine had one of those, but it's been a while since I sold it...


Good info tyvm!! which one do you prefer?


i am confused you are worried about putting holes in the bottom of your cab. even with screws that don't penetrate threw the thickness of the wood:confused::confused::confused:



Peace
Buffett

yea i'm just being crazy purist. i'm not worried about it, i'd just rather not do it if at all possible.
 
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hello i was wondering if you could take pictures how the monitor bezle is seated on the machine and how the arcade monitor is mounted. i recently piced up a TMNT cabinet wich is the same style cab but it was just the cabinet no monitor i have a 27 inch im trying to put in their but have no idea how it was mounted thanks.
 
hello i was wondering if you could take pictures how the monitor bezle is seated on the machine and how the arcade monitor is mounted. i recently piced up a TMNT cabinet wich is the same style cab but it was just the cabinet no monitor i have a 27 inch im trying to put in their but have no idea how it was mounted thanks.

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you should do a search on konami cabs, the cost of jacking a thread is what you have for sale.
 
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