Is this monitor trashed??

sohchx

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I have this Sharp XM1801/2001N monitor in one of my games that started giving me this issue after a cap kit and replacement of the B+ filter caps. I ordered a new flyback being that the original was still in there and also thinking that this may be the source of this issue. No,the monitor is still doing the same exact thing. The neck glow is so dim that I have to turn the lights off to see it and almost have to use a magnifying glass. Is this monitor toasted or is there a chassis issue?? I have never seen anything like this before.
 

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If it's got neck glow I would guess the tube is not done. Unless the guns are shot or something but I'm not sure how that equates to neck glow.
 
I would guess the heaters are not getting enough voltage.
Does the center spot change colors at all while the game is running?
The heater might not be heating it up enough to emit enough electrons for
a display to occur. Although you would think the display would be dim all over then..

Ignore my ramblings.. working my way through Randy's videos.
 
I would guess the heaters are not getting enough voltage.
Does the center spot change colors at all while the game is running?
The heater might not be heating it up enough to emit enough electrons for
a display to occur. Although you would think the display would be dim all over then..

Ignore my ramblings.. working my way through Randy's videos.

Yes ,during game play the colors do change slightly from the title screen to attract mode play.
 
Isn't that virtually impossible being that the neckboard is keyed? Or am I thinking of something else?

The "YOKE" .... the four pin connector coming from the big coil that slips over the neck and is up against the back of the tube.
 
The connector from the yoke going into the chassis itself? Are the wires colored red,blue,yellow,green?

Yes, if the yoke isn't connected properly you'll get no deflection whatsoever and end up with a single dot in the middleof your screen.
 
Not sure what you meant by "numbers" when referring to the yoke but the only time I have seen what you have going on in that picture is when I plugged in a yoke incorrectly.... Of course if you shorted anything while doing the cap kit (stray leg stuck to the bottom of the board, forgot to trim one leg and it is shorted to the monitor chassis, used too much solder and jumped pads, dripped some solder and didn't notice, ect) it COULD have the same effect.
 
Not sure what you meant by "numbers" when referring to the yoke but the only time I have seen what you have going on in that picture is when I plugged in a yoke incorrectly.... Of course if you shorted anything while doing the cap kit (stray leg stuck to the bottom of the board, forgot to trim one leg and it is shorted to the monitor chassis, used too much solder and jumped pads, dripped some solder and didn't notice, ect) it COULD have the same effect.

On the yoke wires plastic harness housing that plugs into the chassis there are individual numbers stamped for each wire,those numbers are stamped next to the pins on the chassis designating where each wire is supposed to go along with the orientation
 
Yeah.... I think I would double check all that as the company that numbered that connector is probably not affiliated with the company that numbered the board.

All that being said, your RED and BLUE work as a pair and should be right next to each other. Your Yellow and Green work as a pair and should be next to each other. If Red and Blue get swapped, you get a backwards screen. When Yellow and Green get mixed up, the picture is upside down. If Red and Yellow/Green or Blue and Yellow/Green get mixed up, you either get something similar to what you are seeing or you blow something up.

Some boards have two sets of Yoke headers on the chassis. If yours has two, make sure you are using the correct header...
 
Yeah.... I think I would double check all that as the company that numbered that connector is probably not affiliated with the company that numbered the board.

All that being said, your RED and BLUE work as a pair and should be right next to each other. Your Yellow and Green work as a pair and should be next to each other. If Red and Blue get swapped, you get a backwards screen. When Yellow and Green get mixed up, the picture is upside down. If Red and Yellow/Green or Blue and Yellow/Green get mixed up, you either get something similar to what you are seeing or you blow something up.

Some boards have two sets of Yoke headers on the chassis. If yours has two, make sure you are using the correct header...

You know what? Good point Mongo. Off the top of my head I think the monitor may be a Phillips. I'll make it easier on all of us here and take pics of everything the way it's hooked up now.
 
You know what? Good point Mongo. Off the top of my head I think the monitor may be a Phillips. I'll make it easier on all of us here and take pics of everything the way it's hooked up now.

A picture would be very helpful.....for nothing else.....to know what kind of monitor you're working on. Phillips didn't make monitors, just tubes. I'm guessing you have a Wells-Gardner 7000 series monitor.

Edward
 
I got it!!!! The yoke wire was plugged in backwards!!! The monitor is indeed a sharp as well as the chassis but the weird thing is that,as I stated earlier the yoke harness has the numbers 1 through 4 stamped on it as does the chassis board where the prongs are so I figured,match the numbers. I was wrong, for some reason the plug goes on the opposite way. Thanks to everyone here for helping me through this I really appreciate it.I was just about to give up on this and send it in to get it fixed. Unfortunately I would have been $140 in the hole all for a backwards plug. THANK YOU ALL!!!!!!
 
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