Is this a suitable donor TV for a WG K4900?

hindered

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Anyone know if this tube will work in a K4900? I know the only way to tell for sure is to open it up and see if it's a 10 pin tube... The seller says it might be a 20" instead of a 19".. will this be an issue? I'm guessing yes.

Anyone have any advice?
 

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Nope. That's a Sony trinitron isn't it? 20" tube as well. You can't use sony tubes due to their shadow mask/ aperture grill or something like that. The only way you can really know is to look in the cooling grills in the back with a strong flashlight and see if you can get the tube number off the back of the tube. Barring that, you have to take the back of hte TV off and count the pins on the tube and see if it matches what you are trying to replace. I am having a harder and harder time finding 19" tubes around here. (Dallas area)
 
It's an Emerson TV. How can you tell if it's 20" or 19" (other than the obvious of measuring it). If it's 20", I'm guessing it's not usable?

Edit: measuring != mentioning.
 
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Looks like a 19" to me. 20" sets didn't become real common until the early 90's - that one is clearly 80's era. Has a chance of being a donor.

You could just have the seller measure it... Wait - seller? You're not planning on spending money on a donor set, are you? You can typically just find them out at the curb :D

-Ian
 
I don't have the time to drive around looking for TVs, and I definitely don't see them sitting out by the curb.. I can't remember the last time I saw a TV like this at a garage sale, let alone out by the curb... local thrift stores don't have anything older than mid/late 90s.

Figure it's worth a couple bucks to find one on CL today instead of hoping to see a free one for months...

Guy says it's from the mid 80's. He's not sure if it's a 19" or a 20". I'll ask him to give it a measure, but my original question still stands: What if it's a 20" tube? Will it work (assuming the pins are the same) or am I SOL? I guess the point is moot, because there's plenty of room in the cab, but the frame wouldn't accommodate a 20".
 
Sony ='s NO
If it's a 20" no.
A person can go broke trying to find a suitable replacment tube. Unless you have located a TV that is on some of the TV lists that are floating around that are supposive matches, it's a crap shoot.
I would say shoot for an early 80's model TV will most likely have a 10 pin tube on it. The closer you get to the 90's tubes the greater the chance you have of finding an 8 pin tube which of course won't work with your chassis.

Don't have the guy measure it - have the guy provide you with the model number and look it up yourself. You can ask the guy to look throught the vent holes on the back and see if he can read the tubes part number.
 
A 20" tube can actually *work*, it just won't fit in the bracket, that's all. Neck pinouts are the same, and the 19" yoke will fit.

-Ian
 
20" will work in Nintendo Sanyo monitors. Always get the tube numbers from the label on the tube so you know if it's going to work in your application.
 
The answer would be no for his application since he's attemptiong to use an existing K4900 frame.

Yes, I have mentioned this, and so did he. :) He was just answering the question that hooking up the K4900 chassis to the 20" tube would most likely function as expected, assuming the pins were the same.

Thanks for the information, everyone. I figure for $5 I'll take a chance -- the set is non-working after all. If he wants more money than that I'll pass unless he can provide more information about the tube.
 
That's an Emerson, and will have an Orion tube in it.

It is a 100% perfect drop-in for a Hantarex MTC900/e chassis. Perfect yoke compatability, though you will need to take off the yoke connector and use the one from the Hantarex.

Also, these tubes work excellently with Jen-Shinn low-impedence replacement chassis, again without the need to swap yokes. These have 10 pins, and about 14 ohm vertical yoke resistance.

They work pretty well with the Wei-Ya replacement chassis but are a bit more finicky with them but usually limited to just a bit softer focus or slight geometry issue on that chassis.

As far as drop-in for any more common chassis: No. You'd have to swap the yoke, and about 20% of the Emerson sets actually have bonded yokes, meaning you wont be able to remove it without breaking the tube. I have tried to drop one of these into a K4600 and couldn't converge it and noticed that the bell shape on the tube was not the same as a classic RCA tube, thus probably would not be ideal for that. Perhaps others have had better luck.


Please note: The existing yoke on this is LOW impedence, around 14 ohms. You will NOT be able to pop this with it's current TV yoke into a G07, K4900 or 20-EZ (45 to 55 ohms) or a K4600 (8 ohms). On the 4600 it will just have a very small picture and possibly ruin the deflection. On the others, it will definitely blow the vertical deflection circuit. You'd have to swap yokes for those.


Again, for the Hanterex or Jen-Shinn replacement chassis (and many times the WeiYa), these Orion tubes offer an amazing picture and look as good as a super nice Nintendo Sanyo EZ-20 and is as easy as dropping in and changing the yoke connector as the impedence is a dead-on match.

BTW--It's a 19" viewable tube. I've picked up over 20 of these in the last 7 years. While it may be calculated as 20" in the inner frame (e.g. be labeled with A51 vs. A48 tube number), it's only got 19" viewable. It's rare to find 20" viewable in 80's TV's. It was more common with square corner tubes in the later 90's. And yes, it WILL drop into any classic monitor metal frame. Any A48/A51 tubes do so. They have the same dog ear dimensions to mount. At least every one I've ever picked up.
 
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That's an Emerson, and will have an Orion tube in it.

It is a 100% perfect drop-in for a Hantarex MTC900/e chassis. Perfect yoke compatability, though you will need to take off the yoke connector and use the one from the Hantarex.

Also, these tubes work excellently with Jen-Shinn low-impedence replacement chassis, again without the need to swap yokes. These have 10 pins, and about 14 ohm vertical yoke resistance.

They work pretty well with the Wei-Ya replacement chassis but are a bit more finicky with them but usually limited to just a bit softer focus or slight geometry issue on that chassis.

As far as drop-in for any more common chassis: No. You'd have to swap the yoke, and about 20% of the Emerson sets actually have bonded yokes, meaning you wont be able to remove it without breaking the tube. I have tried to drop one of these into a K4600 and couldn't converge it and noticed that the bell shape on the tube was not the same as a classic RCA tube, thus probably would not be ideal for that. Perhaps others have had better luck.


Please note: The existing yoke on this is LOW impedence, around 14 ohms. You will NOT be able to pop this with it's current TV yoke into a G07, K4900 or 20-EZ (45 to 55 ohms) or a K4600 (8 ohms). On the 4600 it will just have a very small picture and possibly ruin the deflection. On the others, it will definitely blow the vertical deflection circuit. You'd have to swap yokes for those.


Again, for the Hanterex or Jen-Shinn replacement chassis (and many times the WeiYa), these Orion tubes offer an amazing picture and look as good as a super nice Nintendo Sanyo EZ-20 and is as easy as dropping in and changing the yoke connector as the impedence is a dead-on match.

BTW--It's a 19" viewable tube. I've picked up over 20 of these in the last 7 years. While it may be calculated as 20" in the inner frame (e.g. be labeled with A51 vs. A48 tube number), it's only got 19" viewable. It's rare to find 20" viewable in 80's TV's. It was more common with square corner tubes in the later 90's. And yes, it WILL drop into any classic monitor metal frame. Any A48/A51 tubes do so. They have the same dog ear dimensions to mount. At least every one I've ever picked up.

Wow, I know there are knowledgeable people on KLOV but I'm always surprised when posts like this come out -- I was JUST coming here to post that it's an Orion tube and the serial number information I have, when I saw this wealth of information -- thanks. :)

So, IF it has a non-bonded yoke (80% should be this way), I should be able to swap the yokes without issue? How hard is it to swap a yoke?
 
Swapping the yoke is easy. It's convearging the monitor afterwards that is the hard part. If you get the yoke on square and mark your rings before you remove them off the old tube you'll be miles ahead of the game.
 
That's an Emerson, and will have an Orion tube in it.

It is a 100% perfect drop-in for a Hantarex MTC900/e chassis. Perfect yoke compatability, though you will need to take off the yoke connector and use the one from the Hantarex.

Also, these tubes work excellently with Jen-Shinn low-impedence replacement chassis, again without the need to swap yokes. These have 10 pins, and about 14 ohm vertical yoke resistance.

They work pretty well with the Wei-Ya replacement chassis but are a bit more finicky with them but usually limited to just a bit softer focus or slight geometry issue on that chassis.

As far as drop-in for any more common chassis: No. You'd have to swap the yoke, and about 20% of the Emerson sets actually have bonded yokes, meaning you wont be able to remove it without breaking the tube. I have tried to drop one of these into a K4600 and couldn't converge it and noticed that the bell shape on the tube was not the same as a classic RCA tube, thus probably would not be ideal for that. Perhaps others have had better luck.


Please note: The existing yoke on this is LOW impedence, around 14 ohms. You will NOT be able to pop this with it's current TV yoke into a G07, K4900 or 20-EZ (45 to 55 ohms) or a K4600 (8 ohms). On the 4600 it will just have a very small picture and possibly ruin the deflection. On the others, it will definitely blow the vertical deflection circuit. You'd have to swap yokes for those.


Again, for the Hanterex or Jen-Shinn replacement chassis (and many times the WeiYa), these Orion tubes offer an amazing picture and look as good as a super nice Nintendo Sanyo EZ-20 and is as easy as dropping in and changing the yoke connector as the impedence is a dead-on match.

BTW--It's a 19" viewable tube. I've picked up over 20 of these in the last 7 years. While it may be calculated as 20" in the inner frame (e.g. be labeled with A51 vs. A48 tube number), it's only got 19" viewable. It's rare to find 20" viewable in 80's TV's. It was more common with square corner tubes in the later 90's. And yes, it WILL drop into any classic monitor metal frame. Any A48/A51 tubes do so. They have the same dog ear dimensions to mount. At least every one I've ever picked up.

Great info! You don't happen to have a spreadsheet/list with specific TV models that you have successfully swapped tubes from do you?

Chris
 
I took a guess on Sony when I saw the color bars on the bottom. Most of the Sony's I've seen are 20" models. I think it was their attempt to be bigger and better. Nobody's perfect, I just gave my opinion with the limited information I had. I swear I can tell a 20" from a 19" by looking at the tube itself. I'm not always right. Never professed to be. I bet if you threw a tape measure across that diagonal you would get 20". If you can get the model number of the set from the seller, there is usually a reference to size in the model number. There is usually (not always) a 19 or 20 in it. If you can get the actual tube number by looking in through the grills, you can determine if it is a 19 or 20 " by the prefix (A51/A48).

Finally, excellent post PacFan.
 
This is the information he gave me off the tube...

CPJ510CKAY1Q-TC
51OUEB22-TC (Y)
EIA 577

None of that means anything to me.
 
This is the information he gave me off the tube...

CPJ510CKAY1Q-TC
51OUEB22-TC (Y)
EIA 577

None of that means anything to me.


The '510UEB22' looks like a tube number to me. It does use the standard CR23 pinout, the 6.3 v heater, and will fit the 4900 neckboard. The only concern I have is the actual size of the tube, though it looks to be a standard 19" in the pic.
 
> CPJ510CKAY1Q-TC
> 51OUEB22-TC (Y)

IIRC, some tubes have 2 numbers based on two different standards in different countries. It's been a while since I was tracing specific tube numbers so I dont recall exactly.

51 means the manufacturer claims it's 51 cm, or 20" tube. But equally you can have an A48 (48 cm/19" tube) side by side and they are identical mounting ears. I have put these all in the exact same frames that classic RCA 19V models have been in without any problem. So far they are the same.

TV's, unlike computer monitors, used to be sold by viewable diagonal size, in otherwords, where the actual phosphor coating was and exposed on the consumer set -- not what is behind the bezel and just part of the thick glass front.

As I mentioned before, all A48/A51 labeled CR-23 tubes for me, so far, have been the same size overall. There may be differences but I haven't come across that *in a rounded tube*. I have found some mid 90's RCA's that were probably A51 that had perfectly square corners that did not mount correctly in the frame as the dog ears didn't line up.


As for getting this to work in a K4900 -- for sure you will have to replace the yoke, which is a shame as this would drop into a hantarex or a replacement chassis and at most need the yoke wire connector swapped, and you'd have a perfectly converged no geometric problem image.

But if you need to take it off and it's not bonded then you can try. Note: All Orion tubes that have bonded yokes will have a oval sticker on the side of the tube 90 degrees from the anode hole stating such with a warning. I actually got one off as the glue/silicone had lost the grip from heat over time, but another could not be removed.

As others said -- swapping yokes isn't too hard, it's getting them in the right position, then converging that's hard. I've never had a 100% success, but came darn close on a K4900 tube swap. (until the neck cracked one day, probably from stress in moving the yoke 6 months earlier, tightening and untightening, and with subsequent thermal changes from 60 degree basement to 100+ degrees when on). A K4600 was a lot harder to get aliigned I have always gotten those close but then had purple/green shadows on white lines on the edge, or when adjusted in the middle.

A couple tubes as I said before had such a different incline to the bell part of the tube that they just wouldn't work with the arcade yoke correctly, and that was easy to spot with them sitting side-by-side and suspect that caused issues with the magnets not being able to deflect the correct amount.
 
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