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Tighe
Well-known member
Just C410 was different.
Is this a Sanyo EZ? (exact model?)
- Thread starter Tighe
- Start date
Just C410 was different.
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
I was posting from a submitted list. this is why I as people to submit differences when they find them. While your sound board said EZW, your chassis said EZZ. Now I have to figure out if there is more than one version of this chassis, and whether the cap values at C410 are different. The online manual I have shows it to be a 47uf cap also....
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
BTW - if you are ever working on a monitor that WORKED at some point in the past, and you are recapping it, always replace the caps with their same uf value unless you have a schematic that shows that it is the wrong value - but make a note about the difference. If it doesn't work when you're done, try changing that cap back to the other value...
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Tighe
Well-known member
I will send you the scans of the schematic that Jam Burglar sent me. It is for the 14" with the ezw sound board.
Everything matches your list except C410.
This monitor did work but it recently wouldn't lock on the vertical (horizontal installed) hold.
It also would get dim after 30 minutes.
I would have put the same caps in, but when one was in backwards and another was half soldered in, I realized this chassis was worked on by a hack. So for 4 of the caps I used what was in the schematic.
I did learn you can make a bipolar cap by soldering the negative leads of two caps together.
So the Atari version has the video inversion circuit? I am guessing that Dig Dug didn't output inverted video?
Sorry to bump an old thread, but does anyone happen to know what R213, R214, and R215 originally were? I know this conversion kit replaces them with 820 ohm 1/4 watt resistors, but I'd like to know what the original resistors' values were. I want to de-convert a 13" EZZ I have here to run on negative video.
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Tighe
Well-known member
I will look at the schematics if i get a chance. Do you have another ez monitor? Surely you could just look at the resistors in it for the values.
I do, and removing them from the cab is a real PITA. I may just have to do that.
Necro-bump, is there a copy of the schematic JamBurgler scanned anywhere else? The megaupload links are long dead.
are you looking for the schematic pic in post #48
if so shoot me your email address.
Peace
Buffett
if so shoot me your email address.
Peace
Buffett
Looking for the file "page 14" in post 8, the one with all the megaupload links. None of those work anymore.
yes i HAVE that.
PM me your email address and i will send you all the files i have on that monitor.
Peace
Buffett
PM me your email address and i will send you all the files i have on that monitor.
Peace
Buffett
modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
JamBurglar
Well-known member
Bumping an old thread again but i figured this was a good place to chime in.
I'm recapping an older model Sanyo EZV (20") from an early TKG2 Donkey Kong. All of the caps on my chassis appear to be the original ones. The monitor chassis looked completely untouched.
C407 on my chassis is a 47uf 160V cap. Here is the cap:
The cap kit I bought lists C407 as a 10uf 250v cap.
I checked my (early version) schematics and there are two versions of the 20" EZV in the book.
The first says simply, "20-EZV" and the second says "20-EZV (R-B)" (meaning it's Revision B). Unfortunately, the "20 EZV" (Revision A) schematics are illegible in some spots. By comparing to the (much more legible) Revision B schematics I was able to locate the cap in question and I think this is it
Now here is the same cap on the 2nd Rev schematics
Obviously, the higher voltage between what's listed in the cap kits is not an issue (my cap kit lists C407 as a 10uf 250v cap and the Rev B schematics list it as 10uf 160v cap), but change from 47uf on Rev A to 10uf on Rev B. tripped me up.
Any opinions on whether I should keep a 47uf cap in there or will the 10uf be fine?
It appears as though Tighe was running into similar issues with his 14" monitor (although it looks like he had additional problems caused by somebody else working on his monitor before him).
I'm recapping an older model Sanyo EZV (20") from an early TKG2 Donkey Kong. All of the caps on my chassis appear to be the original ones. The monitor chassis looked completely untouched.
C407 on my chassis is a 47uf 160V cap. Here is the cap:
The cap kit I bought lists C407 as a 10uf 250v cap.
I checked my (early version) schematics and there are two versions of the 20" EZV in the book.
The first says simply, "20-EZV" and the second says "20-EZV (R-B)" (meaning it's Revision B). Unfortunately, the "20 EZV" (Revision A) schematics are illegible in some spots. By comparing to the (much more legible) Revision B schematics I was able to locate the cap in question and I think this is it
Now here is the same cap on the 2nd Rev schematics
Obviously, the higher voltage between what's listed in the cap kits is not an issue (my cap kit lists C407 as a 10uf 250v cap and the Rev B schematics list it as 10uf 160v cap), but change from 47uf on Rev A to 10uf on Rev B. tripped me up.
Any opinions on whether I should keep a 47uf cap in there or will the 10uf be fine?
It appears as though Tighe was running into similar issues with his 14" monitor (although it looks like he had additional problems caused by somebody else working on his monitor before him).
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Tighe's issues on the 13" monitor were because the "Universal" sanyo cap kits were built on the 19" version of the chassis. The 13" uses a few different caps, and his kit didn't match up.
Rule of thumb for me is that if I'm capping an already working monitor, I always replace caps with the same uf values.
Rule of thumb for me is that if I'm capping an already working monitor, I always replace caps with the same uf values.
i would say obviously rev A didn't do what sanyo intended it to do so therefore you have rev B to fix rev A problems. put the 10uf 250v in.
BTW: most cap kits out there don't even account for the service bulletins that sanyo put out that affected cap value changes so sometimes you won't swap like for like cap values. as a rule of thumb if you don't know yes i recommend like for like swapping.
BTW: most cap kits out there don't even account for the service bulletins that sanyo put out that affected cap value changes so sometimes you won't swap like for like cap values. as a rule of thumb if you don't know yes i recommend like for like swapping.
JamBurglar
Well-known member
Thanks.
I'll try to remember to report back here once its done to verify the substitute works.
I doubt there are many early revision Sanyo EZs out there but maybe this thread will help somebody in the future.
JamBurglar
Well-known member
Substitute seems to be working. I'm not 100% done dialing in the monitor yet but seems like the substitute worked fine.
