Is this a Sanyo EZ? (exact model?)

So I replaced the fuzorisitorn with the resistor/fuse combo as I described and it works and sounds perfect!! Also reconnecting the degauss circuit solved the other issues!
 
The cap that did not match from the 20" kit was C410. On the 20", it's a 100uf 160volt, but on the 14" model, C410 is a 47uf 160v.

Also, on the 20" model, C472 is a 100uf 160v. That cap doesn't exist on the 14", but on my 14", C462 is a 100uf 160v, so I changed it with that one.

I double checked the capacitance rating on the rest of the caps in the 20" kit, and I believe the rest of the caps matched up with what was already in my original chassis, so that should do it.

So you can get the 20" kit, and substitute one 47uf 160v cap for one of the 100uf 160v caps, and you should be good to go.

I am installing the kit now and I just ran into this, I wish I had thought to get this cap ahead of time. Calling Radio Shack to see if they have one.
 
NO luck with radio shack, I even looked in the K7500 kit I had and caps I bought to recap my turboexpress. No luck.

It isn't just C410, C407 is a different cap too. :mad::mad::mad:
 
Crazy I just found that c301 was installed backwards, I checked the sick screen on both sides. Then I used my continuity tested and found that it was indeed installed backwards.
 
Crazy I just found that c301 was installed backwards, I checked the sick screen on both sides. Then I used my continuity tested and found that it was indeed installed backwards.

Not only is C301 in backwards, it is 47uf 50v while bob's kit has it as 10uf 50v

also

C303 is 10uf 160v and bob's kit has it as 10uf 50v!

SOMEONE HELP ME! WTF is going on here!
 
OK I am looking at the 14 EZW schematic that Jambuglar posted on megaupload. Good thing I saved the file!

Looks like bob's kit is right according to the schematic:

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Just try leaving the 47uf 160 cap in there. If you have an ESR meter, check it to see if it's OK. If it's OK, just run with the original cap.

Worst case scenario is you can always pull the chassis and change the cap later if you develop issues.

If the cap's still good and lasted this long, keep using it. It's lasted this long, it's probably a better built cap than anything you'll swap in there.
 
Just try leaving the 47uf 160 cap in there. If you have an ESR meter, check it to see if it's OK. If it's OK, just run with the original cap.

Worst case scenario is you can always pull the chassis and change the cap later if you develop issues.

If the cap's still good and lasted this long, keep using it. It's lasted this long, it's probably a better built cap than anything you'll swap in there.

Except there are a ton of caps that are different. And one was in backwards!

I am going to go by the schematic for the EZW. Whoever worked on it before was smoking crack!
 
Can someone weigh in on this, I am replacing the caps according to Bob's kit which so far matches the schematic (14" EZW). What is the possibility of this damaging the monitor? I will list the different values when I am done.
 
Just try leaving the 47uf 160 cap in there. If you have an ESR meter, check it to see if it's OK. If it's OK, just run with the original cap.

Worst case scenario is you can always pull the chassis and change the cap later if you develop issues.

If the cap's still good and lasted this long, keep using it. It's lasted this long, it's probably a better built cap than anything you'll swap in there.

OK, so I completed installing the kit and there was only one capicitor in Bob's kit that didn't match which was C410 on the schematic and what was on the chassis was 47uf 250v

Here are the other capacitors on the chassis that were different from both the schematic and Bob's kit:

  • C301 - was installed backwards, and was 47uf 50v. Schematic and Bob's kit says it should be 10uf 50v.
  • C303 - just had higher voltage rating 10uf 160v. Schematic and Bob's kit says it should be 10uf 50v.
  • C411 - Had 2 10uf 35v caps connected at the negative terminals. Schematic and Bob's kit says it should be 4.7uf 25v Non-Polarized. I looked at the schematic and it might be 47uf as the decimal point is hard to see.
  • C407 - Had 47uf 160v installed. Schematic and Bob's kit says it should be 10uf 160v.

I am putting back together, let's hope it still works!
 
Can someone weigh in on this, I am replacing the caps according to Bob's kit which so far matches the schematic (14" EZW). What is the possibility of this damaging the monitor? I will list the different values when I am done.

guess you have something against modessitt's list. i weighed in guess i was a featherweight.
 
guess you have something against modessitt's list. i weighed in guess i was a featherweight.

No, the EZW isn't on that list. Jam Burglar posted the actual schematic for the EZW 14". I figured it was a safe bet.

This list http://www.juniorsrevenge.com/sanyo20ezycaplist.txt has C407 as a 10uf 160v which is the same as Bob's kit. The schematic has it as 47uf 160v, which is the same as on the chassis.
 
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No, the EZW isn't on that list. Jam Burglar posted the actual schematic for the EZW 14". I figured it was a safe bet.

ah i just went off the title, guess you figured out it was an EZW since post 1? it was long i didn't read it.
 
You got that right! I spent a very long time working on this monitor checking everything over and over.

It paid off!

nothing worth doing is easy. you should give modessitt a list of the caps to add to his list.
 
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