JamBurglar
Well-known member
Did you see the link to the Nintendo Donkey Kong TKG3 14" Sanyo EZ schematics I scanned for you?
Is this a Sanyo EZ? (exact model?)
- Thread starter Tighe
- Start date
Did you see the link to the Nintendo Donkey Kong TKG3 14" Sanyo EZ schematics I scanned for you?
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Tighe
Well-known member
Is that a EZW?
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Tighe
Well-known member
I see now that the page 14 is for the EZW! THanks! THat mush have been a pain to scan!
JamBurglar
Well-known member
Ha, kind of! I've been getting a lot of requests for scans so I'm slowly trying to get the whole set of schematics online.
Here's the cap list for the Sanyo AZZ. I don't know how close it matches the EZW....
1uf160V C475/C610
4.7uf25V C162/C206/C408 All BP Caps
4.7uf160V C406
10uf16V C479
10uf160V C471
47uf16V C208
47uf160V C410
100uf16V C211
100uf25V C205/C457
100uf160V C462
220uf16V C161/C202
330uf25V C474
330uf25V C484 BP Cap
470uf10V C609
470uf160V C606 B+ Filter Cap
Edward
Sanyo 14-AZZ 13"
1uf50V C166/C207/C453/C455/C460
1uf160V C475/C610
4.7uf25V C162/C206/C408 All BP Caps
4.7uf160V C406
10uf16V C479
10uf160V C471
47uf16V C208
47uf160V C410
100uf16V C211
100uf25V C205/C457
100uf160V C462
220uf16V C161/C202
330uf25V C474
330uf25V C484 BP Cap
470uf10V C609
470uf160V C606 B+ Filter Cap
Edward
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Tighe
Well-known member
So I capped the audio amp board and...
While the sound is louder it still has a plucky banjo sound, and while now mario makes a sound when he jumps it is static.
Here is what I have done so far:
So the only things left to do are the following:
Anyone have a best guess where I should start?
Videos:
What it sounded like before I started (doesn't sound much different now)
What it sounds like when connected to a amplified PC speakers:
Additionally a cable came unplugged and I need to know where to plug it back in. It is a black two lead wire that crosses over the corner of the blue warning label in this photo:
Can you tell me where it connects and what it is?
While the sound is louder it still has a plucky banjo sound, and while now mario makes a sound when he jumps it is static.
Here is what I have done so far:
- I bypassed the amp board completely and ran the sound from the game board directly to a set of amplified PC speakers and the sound is great.
- I tried a different speaker connected to JD (amplified audio out) and it sounds just as bad.
- I have replaced all the caps and the two transistors that are connected to heat sinks (all came from a Bob Roberts cap deluxe cap kit) and the sound is the same.
So the only things left to do are the following:
- Check the voltage coming in on JC, anyone know what that should be?
- Replace the remote volume pot on JB
- Check the values on all the resistors (PITA)
- Replace the diode (D37) on the board
- Replace the other two transistors (TR371 & TR372) on the board.
- Replace the ceramic disc cap (C379)
Anyone have a best guess where I should start?
Videos:
What it sounded like before I started (doesn't sound much different now)
What it sounds like when connected to a amplified PC speakers:
Additionally a cable came unplugged and I need to know where to plug it back in. It is a black two lead wire that crosses over the corner of the blue warning label in this photo:
Can you tell me where it connects and what it is?
Last edited:
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Tighe
Well-known member
Bump? Anyone?
After you recap your audio amp check R383 on the sound amp.
Mine was bad. it had a crack in it and the side was blown out. it only let like half of the sounds to the speakers and had the plucky banjo sound like you have. after i replaced it i had clear sound again.
The black wire is possibly your degauss wire. see if it is hooked up.
Peace
Buffett
Mine was bad. it had a crack in it and the side was blown out. it only let like half of the sounds to the speakers and had the plucky banjo sound like you have. after i replaced it i had clear sound again.
The black wire is possibly your degauss wire. see if it is hooked up.
Peace
Buffett
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Tighe
Well-known member
So I will check that resistor tonight, anyone know what 1/2 NPJ means on the schematic? I am assuming I can just swap it for a standard 39Ω resistor??
The symbol doesn't look like a standard resistor symbol.
The symbol doesn't look like a standard resistor symbol.
RetroHacker
Well-known member
It's not a standard resistor. It's a fusible resistor. I.e. a resistor designed to fail open if too much current is drawn through it. The 1/2 means it's a half watt part.
Electrically, a standard resistor will work in it's place, it just won't be fusible any more. If you don't correct what blew the first one, you'll blow more stuff.
-Ian
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Tighe
Well-known member
Thanks Ian! You are the best!
OK so that is on the power in to the amp board, so if it blew wouldn't it make the amp non-functional??? And damn! I guess I won't by buying that at Rat Shack today.
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Tighe
Well-known member
Thanks to Buffet and Ian, That Fusoresistoid was bad! Not to get a replacement! Damn Radio Shack I would have been able to buy this there back in '94 when I worked there! I can't believe I would place an order for one fusible resistor!
Ian, could I replace that with a standard 39Ω resistor and put a inline .5A on the wire (BK) coming in on connector JC? Wouldn't that be the same thing as a fusible resistor?
Damn Radio Shack I would have been able to buy this there back in '94 when I worked there! I can't believe I would place an order for one fusible resistor!Ian, could I replace that with a standard 39Ω resistor and put a inline .5A on the wire (BK) coming in on connector JC? Wouldn't that be the same thing as a fusible resistor?
RetroHacker
Well-known member
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Tighe
Well-known member
Thanks Ian, I am hitting you Radio Shack during lunch today.
You can even see that it was bad in this photo:
RetroHacker
Well-known member
That looks pretty cooked. Have you figured out why it blew? It's just going to blow your new fuse if you don't. Check the various transistors on the board for shorts. Also, remember that the old part was 1/2 watt.
As for the inline fuse to use as a replacement, I think .5A should be fine, I don't know the exact current needed by the board, but I'd be surprised if it were more than that. I would probably use a slow blow fuse though, the fusible resistors are not usually fast acting.
-Ian
As for the inline fuse to use as a replacement, I think .5A should be fine, I don't know the exact current needed by the board, but I'd be surprised if it were more than that. I would probably use a slow blow fuse though, the fusible resistors are not usually fast acting.
-Ian
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Tighe
Well-known member
Pretty sure this cap had something to do with it, I installed Bob's kit with came with replacements for the 2 transistors that have heat sinks. It didn't have the other two, but I assume that the ones in the kit are the ones that go bad.
I've found that fusible resistor blown.....a lot. It's almost always caused by bad caps.
Edward
Edward
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Tighe
Well-known member
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Tighe
Well-known member
So I hit Radio Shack during lunch and got picked up parts. I had to buy a 500 assorted resistor pack to get a 39Ω resistor!
Also the only slow blow .5 amp fuse was a 250v. I don't think it does, but does the voltage make a difference?
Also the only slow blow .5 amp fuse was a 250v. I don't think it does, but does the voltage make a difference?
Not for this application. Just provides more overhead room. Your biggest concern is the amperage.
