Is there a monitor "bullet-proofing" checklist?

Wundercade

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Is there a monitor "bullet-proofing" checklist?

After watching Frizz's videos wherein he states that he "bullet-proofed" his monitors. The concept piqued my interest.

I've only every been a cap-kit guy, that's all I've every done, but I'd like to expand my skills to bullet-proofing my monitors. So any monitor Guru's here have a checklist they abide in "bullet-proofing" their monitors?

Is each monitor different? I basically have Sanyo 20EZ's, WG 4600's and WG 4900's.

Let's start a bullet-proofing checklist for future reference. As always, any help is greatly appreciated.



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Well, experience helps, as you learn where the problem areas are on most of the common monitors.

And some monitors require more "bulletproofing" than others:

a) A G07 rebuild should include replacing the flyback if it's the original one, as new caps can cause stress that greatly shortens the life of the old flyback.

b) Some original K7000 flybacks develop small cracks around the focus and brightness controls, and can cause control problems, so replacing the flyback is probably a good idea.

c) The K6100 has problems with the low voltage section - especially in Tempest's - and should be rebuilt or upgraded regardless of whether you currently have a problem, especially since you can't buy new vector monitors.

I'm sure there are other monitors that also have common parts issues, but those are the three that are most common.

Conversely, some monitors like the K4900 rarely have problems other than the caps failing or cold solder joints. Other monitors aren't seen often and some parts are not available or are expensive, so replacing them when they haven't failed is not usually recommended.

As for "bulletproofing", this is how I usually rebuild a monitor:

1) Clean as much dirt, dust, or grime from the chassis as possible without damaging components.

2) Replace all electrolytic capacitors.

3) Replace any "known risk parts" such as mentioned above. If a specific issue was the cause of the repair - such as a missing color - check the specific parts normally responsible for that issue and replace or repair as necessary.

4) Inspect chassis for any other blown fuses, damaged parts, broken/loose wires, etc that might need repair or replacement.

5) Carefully inspect all solder joints for bad solder.

6) Check over entire PCB for any cracked traces.

7) Review all repair work for any mistakes.

After that, I install the chassis and check for operation. If I have further problems with the operation, I do further troubleshooting. Sometimes that can take a while. Usually, by the time I have gotten everything working perfectly (after the rebuild), the chassis is good to go for another 5 years or so....
 
Thanks Mod, you were mentioned in Frizz's vid so thanks for all that info.

Would you consider replacing all the pots and VR's as overkill? It's my understanding that pots can greatly affect the stability of the picture.




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Truth is, there really is no guaranteed bulletproofing that can be done short of replacing everything. Replacing 15-20 parts only scratched the surface and you still are left with many that are 25+ years old. Anybody that can guarantee a bulletproofed anything beyond 5 minutes, please step forward.
 
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I could've came up with a better title. What I should've asked for is a monitor overhaul checklist. "Bullet-proof" was merely an expression.


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Thanks Mod, you were mentioned in Frizz's vid so thanks for all that info.

Would you consider replacing all the pots and VR's as overkill? It's my understanding that pots can greatly affect the stability of the picture.




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If you are having problems after your "normal" repair work, then I would. Some pots that get glued can develop problems later, so they may be more likely to need replacements. As for VR's, it depends on the chassis.

And I just might need to watch Frizz's video now.


Also, I'd like to add to my list above:

8) After installation, verify B+ voltage is in the appropriate range. Adjust if necessary (or possible)....
 
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